Sidewinder . 30 Cal. My experience.
- Thread starter Emu
- Start date
I have only use the Semi auto mode. I am expecting not to try the full auto. I am not interested at all in full auto.
Semi auto works perfect for my way of shooting so I am not going to try something that I feell is useless and could ( I do not know and will not investigate) cause the rifle to jam. No gain at all in the trying.
Semi auto works perfect for my way of shooting so I am not going to try something that I feell is useless and could ( I do not know and will not investigate) cause the rifle to jam. No gain at all in the trying.
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the factory ratchet type titanium magazine should be really easy to be reverse engineered compared to a spring loaded rotary magazine.
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In my actual tin of JSB 44.7 pellets I mixed ones that look more silver and ones that are darker from other tin.
If I the magazine just with the darker ones the accuracy is better with the Sidewinder. No flyers at all.
If I the magazine just with the darker ones the accuracy is better with the Sidewinder. No flyers at all.
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After two week with the Sidewinder I have learned that when pulling the trigger the way you already advanced won’t go back if you take your finger out of the trigger, so you keep pulling from where you left it.
In other words, once you started the process of shooting you have to complete the shot or the trigger will be in the middle of the shooting process, what is not so convenient.
In other words, once you started the process of shooting you have to complete the shot or the trigger will be in the middle of the shooting process, what is not so convenient.
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Hi Emu! I've just received a .30 Sidewinder as well. I've only had a chance to shoot one magazine through it so far, to confirm that it works, and it has been holding 250 bar for a few days now so no leaks. I think this may become my favorite gun as well, you are right it is super easy to operate.
I was wondering if you could describe a little how the power adjuster below the stock works.
The instructions say clockwise to decrease and counter-clockwise to increase velocity, but not how much to turn it.
I gave it a few turns to see if it would show up on the pressure gauge, but I realize now that gauge shows the power given by the main regulator. Well now I don't know exactly where I started with it and I dont have a chronograph yet lol. A chronograph will be among my next purchases (as well as a new scope).
How much have you found the velocity changes when you turn the knob? I can feel that it clicks, do I need to count the clicks, or are full rotations of it necessary to see changes?
I'm really looking forward to getting out and having some fun with this rifle. Thank you for your input!
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The power wheel on these types of guns do not change anything with the pressure in the reservoir - they control the closing valve. These guns have a firing valve that directly opens via the sear, and then a separate valve that controls the "end" of the air flow for the shot, allowing the main valve to reset (via spring pressure) and advance the mags to the next shot (via a separate pressure cycled cylinder). One strange feature of these is that they are somewhat "self regulating", in that if the resistance is low on the shot (like cycling it with no pellet) then the pressure drop on the shot is sharp so the valve closes faster. I have found in my Huben that some lighter pellets actually shoot a bit slower on a given setting than heavier ones, if the heavier ones are tighter in the mag/barrel, which is pretty much the opposite of a "normal" valve in a hammer fired gun.
The power wheel controls the load on a spring that activates the closing valve. As a result, the impact of "clicks" depends on the reg pressure (higher will take more clicks open to hit max power than lower), and the change in power per click is non-linear - less happens when close to fully closed or at max power. Once you find the sweet spot over a chrony you'll get the hang of it and understand it.
The power wheel controls the load on a spring that activates the closing valve. As a result, the impact of "clicks" depends on the reg pressure (higher will take more clicks open to hit max power than lower), and the change in power per click is non-linear - less happens when close to fully closed or at max power. Once you find the sweet spot over a chrony you'll get the hang of it and understand it.
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You need a Chrony to get to know how much change in fps you get with each click counterclockwise (more fps) or clockwise (less fps).
You need to learn how your rifle hits with each configuration.
My Sidewinder arrived shooting at 850 fps the 44.7 grain and with perfect accuracy, so I am of the idea of not trying to fix what is working properly. So that is perfect until I need to shoot slugs on a hunting. At that time the tunning for a special purpose will begin.
You need to learn how your rifle hits with each configuration.
My Sidewinder arrived shooting at 850 fps the 44.7 grain and with perfect accuracy, so I am of the idea of not trying to fix what is working properly. So that is perfect until I need to shoot slugs on a hunting. At that time the tunning for a special purpose will begin.
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I bought a Rattler in .30 a couple of months ago and not had a chance to try it out yet. And.....after following this thread I'm thinking I will need to buy a Sidewinder in .30 to go with it. Very informative post. My scuba compressor is going to get a workout for sure and I'll have to increase my slug and pellet budget.
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Thank you for the explanation, I am really looking forward to getting familiar with this rifle.
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Please share your experience.
Sidewinders are new and we all learn from the experience of others.
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.30 Cal. But my gun is a lemon. It actually came from the retailer with zero pressure in the bottle and the bottle was loose, the bracket that attached the bottle to the picatinny rail underneath it was loose. From 300 bar pressure, the tank would lose air completely in two days. I sent it to AOA for repair and they found that the O ring was the problem so they replaced it. And after I got it back I only shot 8 mags before I started to feel this air blowback, there is a strong air blowback from the left side of the gun near the mag that hits my chest, at every shot. Before this leakage, it was shooting 930FPS with 149 bar at the reg, and now with the leakage it shoots around 875FPS.
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