Sig ASP20 Conversion to Coil Spring Power Plant

Greetings!

New member here with a question that’s sure to get a reaction.

I know it may seem an odd thing to pursue, but I want to know if anyone knows for certain that a Sig ASP20 can be converted from a gas spring to a metal coil spring power plant. I’ve searched the web but see no examples or discussion. I’ve seen several other guns converted from coil to gas, but not the other way around. Can this be done relatively easily at home with a spring compressor?

I’m ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but I want to know I can have a new backup power plant on the shelf. I understand the differences but I know a gas piston is not as shelf stable as a coil for long term storage. I want the ability to choose either type of spring if the need arises.

Thanks in advance!

Neph
 
without being able see a parts diagram, I would say the chances are slim to none 

you have to many parts to change and for a rifle that seems to be a little over priced in the first place and the chances of others want to do such a change

if you what a spring gun buy a spring gun, even a Diana 48 at PA is cheaper and has a proven track record that spans decades

I like your thinking but in this case it might be just a dream
 
without being able see a parts diagram, I would say the chances are slim to none 

you have to many parts to change and for a rifle that seems to be a little over priced in the first place and the chances of others want to do such a change

if you what a spring gun buy a spring gun, even a Diana 48 at PA is cheaper and has a proven track record that spans decades

I like your thinking but in this case it might be just a dream

I'm gonna agree here. Probably not likely to be a conversion someone could perform without major renovation. Where I'll disagree is that I feel it is not a little overpriced. The way it behaves and performs for me is a dream, and the brand stands behind the gun. I think fit and finish are on par for the price point, and it shoots just so darn well.



If you want a spring, go for a spring and as mentioned the diana is a great option. In fact, I find myself shooting my Diana 48 far more than the asp20. Additionally, I just did a minor breakdown and clean/lubricate which was both fun and something I could not do on my asp20.



If you want a gas ram, the Asp20 is an exceptional performer for me. Although i can shoot close to the same groupings, it is far easier with the asp20 for me. I have to pay more attention while shooting to get the Diana to perform at the asp20 level.



If you have the money, go for it but get it for what it is, not what it could be.



Edit...and with today's technology I bet the gas ram can last for decades.
 
Thank you gentlemen. This is the best schematic I have come across. The schematic is more marketing than anything. Great video review though! Look at time stamp 2:15 and pause for a schematic. 



https://youtu.be/xgU-fyH13RM



Let me know if the link doesn’t work. 

The alternative for me would likely be the Diana 460. I’d rather have a synthetic stock for hunting. The Diana almost seems to pretty for the brush and brambles. 

I feel like Sig hit it on the head. Accuracy, synthetic stock, pic rails, low cocking effort, magnum power, lower hold sensitivity. The trigger and chance of not having a backup power plant on a trip are the only reasons I haven’t already bitten. 

Any further insight is much appreciated. 
 
Here’s an option. Buy one, maybe a second hand one. I have already seen some on the classifieds sections. 

Take it apart and see what you see. If it’s not doable, put it back together and enjoy your new Gas Ram rifle, or sell it forward as long as your taking it apart didn’t mess anything up. 

But if successful, take plenty of video & or pics and post your adventure for others to enjoy and learn from. 

I also agree that it’s actually a good value. My jury still out on whether I would get one or not, but not because of the price. 

Good luck. 
 
I will likely get an ASP20. I just don’t like the idea of a potential failure of the power plant and no way to have a spare on hand. Part of why I was drawn to airguns is simplicity and ability to service the thing at home if necessary. 

Has no one done a tear down video even just to look inside? I don’t mind custom fabricating of a bushing or something to convert. The coil spring is only an emergency option until a gas piston can be sourced.

I’m a powder burner fan and see guns as something passed down for generations. If I’m going to spend this much on a gun, I expect my grandkids to be able to use it when I’m gone, with proper maintenance of course. I also hate the idea of a failure when out camping and not having a spare part on hand to install. Sounds like a coil spring right? The Diana 460 would be a great equivalent by its specs. It’s what I’d call a pretty gun. I’d feel bad adding a rail for pest control light or tromping through brush with that pretty wood stock. Thus my dilemma. 

Perhaps a Diana 460 better fits the bill, and I simply pay no mind to tearing it up? What does real world experience say?

I plan to do all: pest control, camping while hunting maybe up to ground hogs, entry into field target. Thanks!
 
without being able see a parts diagram, I would say the chances are slim to none 

you have to many parts to change and for a rifle that seems to be a little over priced in the first place and the chances of others want to do such a change

if you what a spring gun buy a spring gun, even a Diana 48 at PA is cheaper and has a proven track record that spans decades

I like your thinking but in this case it might be just a dream

I'm gonna agree here. Probably not likely to be a conversion someone could perform without major renovation. Where I'll disagree is that I feel it is not a little overpriced. The way it behaves and performs for me is a dream, and the brand stands behind the gun. I think fit and finish are on par for the price point, and it shoots just so darn well.



If you want a spring, go for a spring and as mentioned the diana is a great option. In fact, I find myself shooting my Diana 48 far more than the asp20. Additionally, I just did a minor breakdown and clean/lubricate which was both fun and something I could not do on my asp20.



If you want a gas ram, the Asp20 is an exceptional performer for me. Although i can shoot close to the same groupings, it is far easier with the asp20 for me. I have to pay more attention while shooting to get the Diana to perform at the asp20 level.



If you have the money, go for it but get it for what it is, not what it could be.



Edit...and with today's technology I bet the gas ram can last for decades.

I agree ! I've seen the synthetic version ASP20 on Ebay for $349 with free shipping. Overpriced?? Not really! 



https://www.ebay.com/itm/SIG-Sauer-ASP20-Gas-Piston-Breakbarrel-Air-Rifle-Synthetic-0-22-cal-Gas-pisto/323919974128?epid=8020465195&hash=item4b6b228ef0:g:jnIAAOSwFCZdgjEd&redirect=mobile
 
Thank you gentlemen. This is the best schematic I have come across. The schematic is more marketing than anything. Great video review though! Look at time stamp 2:15 and pause for a schematic. 





https://youtu.be/xgU-fyH13RM





Let me know if the link doesn’t work. 

The alternative for me would likely be the Diana 460. I’d rather have a synthetic stock for hunting. The Diana almost seems to pretty for the brush and brambles. 

I feel like Sig hit it on the head. Accuracy, synthetic stock, pic rails, low cocking effort, magnum power, lower hold sensitivity. The trigger and chance of not having a backup power plant on a trip are the only reasons I haven’t already bitten. 

Any further insight is much appreciated.

I'm not a big fan of the trigger. I'd rate it fair but for a hunting rifle it's quite adequate.
 
Is your Only concern the failure of the power plant? Have you called Sig and asked about buying a spare or two? Ask about repair work? Maybe you can send the action in for service if ever needed? 

Matter of fact, I purchased spare parts for my LGV Master Pro from Umarex because of the same concern. It took some doing, bit in the end I got what I needed. 

Buy one gun, if it’s a forever keeper, buy a second gun just for parts. Wait till Black Friday. Get them on sale. Lots of options. 
 
I really like most everything I see on the ASP20, but the lack of ability to have a backup power plant gives me heartburn. I know the gas piston is great and likely won’t fail for many years. But it WILL fail. I don’t want to rely on the factory to get it back up and running.

All power plants fail sooner or later. A coil springer can be fully repaired on the back of a tailgate in the field. A gas springer is completely out of commission until the correct gas spring can be located and installed.

I am assuming gas springs are not nearly as shelf stable as a coil spring. Seals break down, and suddenly the part is entirely useless. A coil spring can be saved for 50 years and still be ready to go when called upon and much more easily sourced if more are needed.

I know some coil springers are easily converted to gas springers. Which leads the question, can the Sig ASP20 gas springer be converted to coil spring as an emergency backup? It’s like a tootsie pop - The world may never know. 

Perhaps someone wants to post pics of internals? I can’t believe no one has opened one up!

i know it sounds like I want a cool spring, but I’m excited to use a gas springer. I just want easy reliable field repairability as well to make me comfortable enough to pick one up.

I thought of calling Sig, but they will only want to sell me what they already offer - a replacement part that is not stable on the shelf long term and likely costs much more than a spring. Maybe that’s cynical? I’ll try to call later in the week and report back. They are an excellent company. Maybe they’ve thought of this hang up and solved it somehow.

Thanks a lot, guys. 
 
It is not overpriced. It is priced in line with the equal quality German springers. I have had mine for a year, and it is as good now as it was when I bought it. I have a few airguns, so the round count on my Sig probably isn't as high as some. The trigger isn't as adjustable as the Weihrachs, but is a good hunting trigger as said above.

This. And I have put well over 4,500 rounds through mine. Mine performs flawlessly. I'll also buck the trend, and say the trigger is actually good. I left mine at factory setting, and it has a clean, crisp break, with obvious first and second stage. It is very predictable and very smooth. It is perfect for hunting, and I find shooting targets very easy. I thought it was well below 2 pounds based on feel, but when I tested it I think it was 2lbs 4oz. Not a rekord, but it holds it's own for sure.
 
And the other thing. The actual cocking of the gun isn't hard. I find the "tricky" part is when first breaking the barrel, and then some effort in closing the break barrel mechanism. It requires almost a "slap" to break it with a decent amount of effort. Then closing it you have to be intentional, but it does get better over time. I have shot quite a few break barrels, and find this one to require more effort at the start to break it, but cocking it is smooth and relatively easy..
 
And the other thing. The actual cocking of the gun isn't hard. I find the "tricky" part is when first breaking the barrel, and then some effort in closing the break barrel mechanism. It requires almost a "slap" to break it with a decent amount of effort. Then closing it you have to be intentional, but it does get better over time. I have shot quite a few break barrels, and find this one to require more effort at the start to break it, but cocking it is smooth and relatively easy..

The cocking effort is quite nice for the power of this rifle. The breaking of the action is a little more tricky then most break-barrel guns. That is a testament to it's barrel/receiver lockup. I am a righty so I hold the forearm high with my left had. The higher your forearm hand is the better the ability to break the action. If one holds their forearm hand closer to the trigger guard the harder it is to break the action. I digress, I then rap the very end of the end of the barrel with my right hand and it breaks easily.

I like to say, why would someone want to convert from gas to spring ?? I can see it the other way around. But gas to spring ??? I've owned a long list of break barrel air rifles and have to say the gas-spring variety are my favorites. Here is that list of all the break barrel rifles I've owned.

Beeman C1 carbine in .177

Beeman R10 carbine in .177

Beeman R1 in .177

Beeman Crow Magnum III in .22

Theoben Scirocco Classic in .22

Beeman RX1 in .20

Sig ASP20 in .22
 
And the other thing. The actual cocking of the gun isn't hard. I find the "tricky" part is when first breaking the barrel, and then some effort in closing the break barrel mechanism. It requires almost a "slap" to break it with a decent amount of effort. Then closing it you have to be intentional, but it does get better over time. I have shot quite a few break barrels, and find this one to require more effort at the start to break it, but cocking it is smooth and relatively easy..

The cocking effort is quite nice for the power of this rifle. The breaking of the action is a little more tricky then most break-barrel guns. That is a testament to it's barrel/receiver lockup. I am a righty so I hold forearm high with my left had. The higher your receiver hand is the better the ability to break the action. If one holds their forearm hand closer to the trigger guard the harder it is to break the action. I digress, I then rap the very end of the end of the barrel with my right hand and it breaks easily.

I like to say why would someone want to convert from gas to spring ?? Ican see it the other way but gas to spring ??? I've owned a long list of break barrel air rifles and have to say the gas-spring variety are my favorites. Here is that list.

Beeman C1 carbine in .177

Beeman R10 carbine in .177

Beeman R1 in .177

Beeman Crow Magnum III in .22

Theoben Scirocco Classic in .22

Beeman RX1 in .20

Sig ASP20 in .22

Yes. And once you get use to "breaking the barrel", it gets much easier. Plus, after it breaks in, it's a little easier as well.



The first day I used it, I bruised my hand breaking the barrel (not actually, just got the meat of my palm slightly tender). But the actual cocking effort is great for the power. 



And nice list of guns!
 
G’day Nephilim7. If you are looking for a air rifle that you can replace the spring/ram in the field on the back of a tailgate you will have to go to imo to sub 12 fps springs/rams. In most cases you will require a clamp to compress the spring/ram. I own a little Hw30 and I consider myself to be fairly strong for a 65 year old but I wouldn’t be able to compress the spring and set the screw without a clamp.

I agree with Intenseaty22 go out and buy a ram and a seal as spares. At one stage I had 2 Trails and I have two spare rams still in top condition, many piston seals, breach seals springs for the indent and more parts then you can poke a stick at. I personally wouldn’t be carrying all this gear around in the field just in case something broke. If you like the sig buy it and go out and use it. Gas rams imo are quieter (no buzz, boing or twang) then a non tuned springer. The gas ram should outlast a spring. In my own experience I doubt if the ram in my Trail (touch wood) will fail as i have had it for six years I think and pushed thousands of pellets into the breach. 

There is a reason a ram is in the sig. People are replacing springs for rams in compatible rifles for a reason. 

All parts eventually failI but if you look at the gas rams in cars they last for many many years in a life of mostly compression. I hope this helps you with your decision.

Gary


 
Nephilim7, I understand your heartburn over when a product may/will fail. I have a mid-90's Interarms Walther PPK/S that was mfg in Alabama. While nice, it is no German product. The little thing is a joy to shoot and utterly reliable with eight different brands of factory .380 ammo when...it is cleaned every 300 rounds and run wet. I've put close to 10,000 rounds through it since I acquired it about 10 years ago. The 1920's design was not built for that high of a round count and some parts are rather fragile. It has a history of breaking trigger bars, ejector/extractors, trigger springs and wearing out hammer block springs. 

So to prevent the frustration and fear of breaking parts unexpectedly I've put the PPK/S on a schedule of replacing the above mentioned parts every 1,800 rounds. Sort of like changing the serpentine belt or battery on your vehicle before it fails. 

Unfortunately, I feel that you'll have to run the ASP20 or any other airgun until you develop a preventive maintenance schedule that you're comfortable with.

Roboslug