sling studs

[Sawney Bean]

Has anyone come up with a good way to temporarily attach sling studs without having to drill a stock? I like to use a two point sling with one stud at the 2 o'clock position on the rear of the stock and the other at the 9 o'clock position on the forearm and an additional stud on the bottom of the forearm for a bipod. I really don't like drilling a nice walnut stock though if there's any way I can help it and sometimes the wood is a bit thin anyway like with bullpups or the foreends of springers. I'm wondering if there's a glue on option out there or something similar.

 

[Florida_Man]

What rifle?

 

[Sawney Bean]

Huben K1 and TX200. Those are the two with nice walnut stocks that I'd prefer not to drill. There are other rifles as well though. I'd really just like to have something removeable rather than drilling holes into nice wood. I'm thinking something glued on with RTV could probably be removed later with little or no damage to the stock.

 

[JimD]

If the glue is strong enough to hold the sling on it will damage the finish of the stock. I don't like sling swivels to project so I use Uncle Mike's style sling bases. They are flush with the stock but require a hole.

 

[elh0102]

Drill holes in the conventional locations in the forend and buttstock, and make your sling attachments work with them. I don't follow your 2 and 9 o'clock descriptions, but I've never seen a sling need, for shooting or carrying, that couldn't be met with the conventional stud locations.

 

[dan_house]

Late to the party.....
elh0102 said to drill holes in the conventional locations..... for a springer? the conventional location would be the forearm at 6 o'clock but the slot for the cocking arm (TX200) eliminates that location..... would 9 o'clock (right hand shooter) be the correct location? Id still be using the 6:00 postition on the buttstock.....

Unlike the OP I'm not opposed to drilling.....

for FT work, would a single point sling and cuff be better than the standard 2 point setup?

Want to get all this setup now, so I have time to work with it and get the muscle memory going so Im not fighting with gear when the match comes....

 

[bucketboy]

I have seen a aluminium plate with provision for sling stud that fits between the rubber butt pad and the stock, it can be removed without leaving any evidence.
Air arms had a sling stud clamp that grips to the cocking lever of the tx

 

[Sawney Bean]

I have seen a aluminium plate with provision for sling stud that fits between the rubber butt pad and the stock, it can be removed without leaving any evidence.
Air arms had a sling stud clamp that grips to the cocking lever of the tx

I actually have something similar on my own TX. I just cut and shaped an aluminum plate with a tab sticking out with a 1.25" slot in it and for the forearm I replaced one of the stock screws with a sling stud. I believe I had to add a taper to the stud to match the stock, but I don't remember off the top of my head.

 

[Sawney Bean]

Late to the party.....
elh0102 said to drill holes in the conventional locations..... for a springer? the conventional location would be the forearm at 6 o'clock but the slot for the cocking arm (TX200) eliminates that location..... would 9 o'clock (right hand shooter) be the correct location? Id still be using the 6:00 postition on the buttstock.....

Unlike the OP I'm not opposed to drilling.....

for FT work, would a single point sling and cuff be better than the standard 2 point setup?

Want to get all this setup now, so I have time to work with it and get the muscle memory going so Im not fighting with gear when the match comes....

I usually end up breaking down and drilling holes. I buy guns to shoot not to collect, but I still am hesitant when it's a particularly nice piece of wood, largely because I prefer to mount my slings in atypical locations.

 

[elh0102]

I usually end up breaking down and drilling holes. I buy guns to shoot not to collect, but I still am hesitant when it's a particularly nice piece of wood, largely because I prefer to mount my slings in atypical locations.

In my original response I didn't realize that we were discussing an underlever springer, my mistake. The only time I used a sling on an underlever rifle, I used a shotgun sling that just looped over the stock and the barrel. It was cumbersome. I have seen a barrel mounted clamp with a stud attachment, but it was long ago and I can't remember where. It was similar to the clamps on the magazine tubes of some shotguns. Brownell's might be a possible source. It could be easily fabricated, but possibly cost prohibitive.

 

[Vetmx]

With a barrel clamp, Uncle Mikes in case you’re wondering, you’ll still be drilling the stock on the butt end. So just drill it. But do it right and not off center. Most next owners can appreciate studs if they are centered and nice. If you sell your gun to a homebody window sniper and he doesn’t like the studs because they might scratch his Andersons, he can replace the studs with a nice cap screw and it will look fine. If they are centered.

 

[DevilsLuck]

If you have the available real estate on a pic rail, you could try one of these single point sling mounts...

 

[crazyhorse]

NO holes drilled or needed....

https://u.cubeupload.com/crazyhorse4/IMG0774.jpg

 

[scottblair]

I like slings on most of my guns. They make barrel band clamps, but they need to be kept oiled or will rust the barrel. Could work on your TX's under lever.
I just drill and use recessed QD pushbutton cups for the forearm, ( when possible). They work great, and are flush with the bottom of forearm, for no obstruction when sling is removed, and look professional imo. I use a 1/2" Forstner bit for a nice clean hole.
I always use a stud on bottom of the butt stock.
Here are two examples. Top two is my R7. Bottom, my Huben K1.
Take your time, measure three times, drill once.

Have fun