Thank you 777. I think I see what you mean. Once I receive the pistol, (in a few days), I'll be able to better assess what I would need/want to do.
Thank you for taking the time to measure and post these pics.
Very much appreciated!
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Other Smith&Wesson 78G pistol grips.
- Thread starter scottblair
- Start date
Thank you for taking the time to measure and post these pics.
Very much appreciated!
well from one walnut snub to another you are welcome
we are about upgrades and grips are the first thing we look at
the S&W 78-79g are nice pistols and if they were still made work sell like hot cakes
i have all the Oring sizes and how to make the stem seal
we are about upgrades and grips are the first thing we look at
the S&W 78-79g are nice pistols and if they were still made work sell like hot cakes
i have all the Oring sizes and how to make the stem seal
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Yup, that sounds like me lol.
I'm looking forward to disassembling this pistol, and cleaning and polishing the internals. I have the seals, but I'm cautiously waiting to see the condition of the valve, and it's seat.
I'm looking forward to disassembling this pistol, and cleaning and polishing the internals. I have the seals, but I'm cautiously waiting to see the condition of the valve, and it's seat.
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the valve if rebuilt and not leaking i would leave alone
there are 2 Orings on the piercing cap, one for the stem and one for the tube seal which is the standard size
the valve stem is two parts, the stem itself and the seal holder
the stem will need to be pressed out and the direction would be away from the seal i have done it with a vise and a block of wood with a hole in it to push the stem into and a punch to finish the removal
an Oring will not work that i know of now bought a chuck of urethane many years ago when it was cheap to buy and find
it is 1/8 thick and hard i would say 70-90 dura
a leather punch will cut it but a few hard strikes are needed
so, i had a problem cutting them and that is because once the small hole is cut you can't see where you are for the OD punch
so i took a piece of wood dowel that would side out inside the OD punch and that dowel had a locating pin installed and now the seals can be punch out as needed of course i needed three in the end but you have to make tools and get much more material to do a damn small job
now why do you have to do this, the stem has a barb for the lack of a better term on the shaft and that barb holds the seal in place
now that is a lot of words and time and money to make a5/16 inch seal with a 1/8 inch ID
but it is easier than sending them to JG to have them rebuilt
just ideas and how i went about it is it perfect maybe not but works as it should
there are 2 Orings on the piercing cap, one for the stem and one for the tube seal which is the standard size
the valve stem is two parts, the stem itself and the seal holder
the stem will need to be pressed out and the direction would be away from the seal i have done it with a vise and a block of wood with a hole in it to push the stem into and a punch to finish the removal
an Oring will not work that i know of now bought a chuck of urethane many years ago when it was cheap to buy and find
it is 1/8 thick and hard i would say 70-90 dura
a leather punch will cut it but a few hard strikes are needed
so, i had a problem cutting them and that is because once the small hole is cut you can't see where you are for the OD punch
so i took a piece of wood dowel that would side out inside the OD punch and that dowel had a locating pin installed and now the seals can be punch out as needed of course i needed three in the end but you have to make tools and get much more material to do a damn small job
now why do you have to do this, the stem has a barb for the lack of a better term on the shaft and that barb holds the seal in place
now that is a lot of words and time and money to make a5/16 inch seal with a 1/8 inch ID
but it is easier than sending them to JG to have them rebuilt
just ideas and how i went about it is it perfect maybe not but works as it should
Upvote 0