Snowpeak Snowpeak M60B First Shots

The M60 definitely has the trigger parts arranged differently but some parts could still be the same. The P35 has the trigger parts in a separate steel housing that screws to the main aluminum block. It uses a small ballpoint pen style spring to the right of your picture on the rod connecting the trigger to the sear parts that controls the weight of the first stage. The first stage adds to the second so if you decrease the first the second also gets lighter. Reducing the first stage spring makes the second stage a little over a pound. That can be further reduced by a screw on the trigger parts block that controls sear engagement.
 
A small update. The H&N Baracuda 15 pellets was also grouping well with this gun out at 50 yards. I will do more accuracy comparison tests and video soon. So far I found the 16gr works better than the 18gr pellets in both JSB, AirArm and H&N. I found that strange on how differ the grouping was with just an extra 2 gr of weight. I am sure the grouping will tighten with some adjustments to the Reg/HS. Testings will follow.
 
On my P35s the velocity doesn't seem to make a lot of difference on accuracy. If they like a pellet, they like a pellet. And vice versa. Definitely worthwhile to tweak the hammer spring setting but it has not worked any miracles for me either. I tried everything from 800 to 900 in my P35-177 with H&N Baracuda Match which shoot the best for me and got the same group sizes all through that velocity range. Tried multiple hs settings at each reg setting. Some hs settings were better and worse but if you compare the best groups at each regulator setting they are about the same.

I'd get the velocity between 800 and 900 and tweak the hammer spring to see what setting it prefers. Two of mine allow me to turn power down with the hs but the 25 caliber doesn't like that. If I turn it down significantly the first shot velocity will be low. Not sure my P35 experience translates into M60 but it might.
 
I cut down my hammer spring from the original 63mm length down to 54mm. This gave me a velocity range with JSB 18.1 gr pellets of 730 fps to 940 fps. 730 was with the hammer screw flush and with 4 revolutions turned = 940. The reg is still set from the factory at 135 Bar. I'm shooting at 860 fps now as it is a bit quieter than the 930 fps setting from the factory. Before cutting the spring I couldn't back off the hammer tension enough to reduce the velocity. It's an easy mod to do. I did heat the cut end red hot with a propane torch and then flattened the coil and gave it a quick grind to make it smooth.
 
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On my P35s the velocity doesn't seem to make a lot of difference on accuracy. If they like a pellet, they like a pellet. And vice versa. Definitely worthwhile to tweak the hammer spring setting but it has not worked any miracles for me either. I tried everything from 800 to 900 in my P35-177 with H&N Baracuda Match which shoot the best for me and got the same group sizes all through that velocity range. Tried multiple hs settings at each reg setting. Some hs settings were better and worse but if you compare the best groups at each regulator setting they are about the same.

I'd get the velocity between 800 and 900 and tweak the hammer spring to see what setting it prefers. Two of mine allow me to turn power down with the hs but the 25 caliber doesn't like that. If I turn it down significantly the first shot velocity will be low. Not sure my P35 experience translates into M60 but it might.
Thanks Jim. I guess I will find out myself and see what happens with the accuracy with only HS adjustments.
 
I cut down my hammer spring from the original 63mm length down to 54mm. This gave me a velocity range with JSB 18.1 gr pellets of 730 fps to 940 fps. 730 was with the hammer screw flush and with 4 revolutions turned = 940. The reg is still set from the factory at 135 Bar. I'm shooting at 860 fps now as it is a bit quieter than the 930 fps setting from the factory. Before cutting the spring I couldn't back off the hammer tension enough to reduce the velocity. It's an easy mod to do. I did heat the cut end red hot with a propane torch and then flattened the coil and gave it a quick grind to make it smooth.
Interesting to know. I might do some experiments with the spring's length. Thank you.
 
I just bid on a m60 b on a whim, and have no idea what I might have gotten myself into. Having said that, can anyone tell me more about what to expect. It’s a step up from my current rifles. Is $500 a good price and is it worth it. I’m committed to paying for it now and I am a little nervous that I may have been a little impulsive. Help
 
They sure do shoot nice!

20240518_115810.jpg
 
I just bid on a m60 b on a whim, and have no idea what I might have gotten myself into. Having said that, can anyone tell me more about what to expect. It’s a step up from my current rifles. Is $500 a good price and is it worth it. I’m committed to paying for it now and I am a little nervous that I may have been a little impulsive. Help
if its the one currently on eBay for 500, just know that from the pictures its not the one with the quick fill adapter and i believe that you need to remove the bottle to be able to fill. Air archery fun should be getting a new shipment soon which have the updated adapter. That's where i purchased mine.
 
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It’s the one you saw on eBay. Hopefully it wasn’t a mistake. I was just a little too eager to get a big bore. I read the bottle issue isn’t to ba, but I think the aftermarket bottle you mentioned is in the future. Do you know if there are any parts or other brands parts that are compatible with SP? I think that some FX model is closely related to it. Or maybe I’m just wishing
 
If I pre-order a brand new M60B (with the new and improved bottle) from Wes, it seems that I have 3 options on reservoir choices:

1. 350cc Aluminum
2. 360cc Carbon Fiber
3. 420 cc Carbon Fiber

Does anyone have a photo of the 360 C.F. vs. the 420 C.F. option?
Id love to see a comparison.
Thanks.

PSSSST!

Look at my picture above, 360cc above, 420cc below (I think, maybe a 470cc)
 
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I understand this. I have to Remember that I’m not dealing with casings, that’s where I get the whole compatibility issue wra up in my head. I forget that when we talk airgun projectiles and calibe, we don’t have to worry about casings. If that makes any sense. I understand that the diameter of.357 and.35, or even 9mm there are very minute differences. Here’s a question you might answer. Has anyone ever thought about tumbling some pell or slugs with a super fine medium to remove any imperfections. Some of the homem slugs have some rough spots. Would this affect the bc in any way. Good or bad. I used to tumble my casings when hand loading to smooth them out and make sure they cycled with ease. Basically polishing them. Normal reloading procedure.
 
My used m60b in .35 came, and I have a few big concerns. First the self indexing magazine seems to be inoperable. The tension required to rotate the clear cover and load the pellets is gone. The magazine is incapable of being loaded. Then the rifle itself will not cock. I’m not sure if it’s because the bottle is empty but it should cock and dryfire with no bottle attached. But the side lever has no resistance at all. It feels like there is no hammer spring installed or that it is broken. Then there is a screw missing from the top of the rifle that is in direct alignment with the rear hinge point of the cocking lever. For all intents or purposes this rifle is inoperative. I am consulting a gunsmith right now to determine the cost of making it capable of working. Oh and one of the moderators is a hollow tube with no baffles at all. A suggestions on who to turn to for repairs on this gun. It’s still a SP m60b and I can address the cosmetic issues myself, but the other problems are beyond me. The trigger seems nice and smo but I can’t even measure the lbs of it because it doesn’t cock. Help please. Is there a secret I don’t know. Does the bottle need pressure for the hammer spring to lock back. Am I just ignorant of how the magazine works. I have been googling my but off and can’t find any magazines in .357, even in Canada. Help again
 
Nope, you got "screwed".
Anyway, a pcp should not be dry fired without air in it. You CAN do it to check function if necessary. Everything IS connected and it is a system. If nothing seems right, then it's not.
Wow, you guys done got me bit! Friday, got off the phone with Wes. Now I have one coming in .22 cal. Thanks Firewalker and Max115. I can not wait for it to grt here.