So what kind of water do I use to cool my yong heng compressor

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stovepipe said:
I'm really surprised that your YH stays under 35 degrees C during an scba tank top-off with an 800 liter/hour pump and starting out with room temperature water.
Click to expand...

Welllll..... That's not entirely the case.

My setup is in the annex (hope that's the right word, as I'm Dutch).

The temperature will rise in the summer!

As we speak, the water temperature has dropped from just under 18 degrees (inititial setup) to 13,5 degrees this moment.

1000022223.jpg


But still, I do believe this is the best setup.

Even if the (starting) water temperature in te barrel would rise to 25 degrees in the summer, it would still do it's job in a proper manner. No way the temperature in the Yong Heng would exceed 65/70 degrees.

I'd be monitoring it the first summer though, just to be on the safe side.
 
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Tuinschutter said:
Welllll..... That's not entirely the case.

My setup is in the annex (hope that's the right word, as I'm Dutch).

The temperature will rise in the summer!

As we speak, the water temperature has dropped from just under 18 degrees (inititial setup) to 13,5 degrees this moment.

View attachment 510879

But still, I do believe this is the best setup.

Even if the (starting) water temperature in te barrel would rise to 25 degrees in the summer, it would still do it's job in a proper manner. No way the temperature in the Yong Heng would exceed 65/70 degrees.

I'd be monitoring it the first summer, just to be on the safe side though.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I noticed that your water temp was pretty cool -- I thought maybe you had just filled the barrel from the cold water tap. I don't have a water temp gauge yet (I threw my Ph monitor away that had the temp on it). With my room-temp water running through the room-temp compressor head and my high-flow fan on (230 cubic feet per minute) that is bolted directly to the back of the compressor, the compressor head temp is 22.6 degrees C. If I start the compressor from that "cold state", it takes about 10 minutes for the compressor head to get to about 53 degrees C -- and it would still be climbing, but I was actually done topping off my rifle. So the compressor got hot, BUT the big-assed bucket of water didn't feel any warmer to the touch. The bottom line is that I just need to get a lot more of that bucket of water through the compressor head per minute. I'm confident that the new water pump and my 20 gallons of water (might go to 25 gallons) will let me top off two 45-minute Scott scba tanks plus top off my rifle several times a day without me needing ice and without me changing my usual duty cycle of about 10 minutes on and 5-10 minutes off. It'll be nice because ice isn't an option for me and I will no longer have to dip gallons of warm water out and empty it into the bath tub and replace the warm water with cold tap water during fill operations. This will be a fun experiment.

Oh, annex. I guess we call it the garage -- many are not heated, like mine. It's a bit like a refridgerator out there now. But my compressor stuff is inside the house.

stovepipe
 
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Tuinschutter said:
That's not a picture, but a videoclip. So you can see it for yourself. 🥳
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I had just rolled out of bed when I looked the first time -- was waiting for my first cup of coffee to brew and didn't notice the play button.
It's funny that your end temperature is not even 5 degrees more than my starting temperature on the compressor head.
Although I'll never see low temps like that, I'm pretty excited to get my better water pump.

I ended up ordering this one
Screenshot from 2024-11-07 16-25-14.png


I also ordered this thermometer that has a min/max feature -- it might come in handy for evaluating "stuff".
Screenshot from 2024-11-07 16-31-19.png


stovepipe
 
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I'm just thinking out loud here. Based on the claimed lift (head) of different water pumps and the fact that we use 1/4 inch inside diameter tubing, I used some online flow calculators to get the following estimated gallons per hour of three different pumps.
Original Yong Heng pump -- lift is about 3.9 feet -- pressure is about 1.69 PSI = about 39 gallons per hour.
The 320 GPH pump I just ordered -- claimed lift is 6.5 feet -- pressure is about 2.81 PSI = about 52 gallons per hour.
The 800 GPH Vivosun pump -- claimed lift is 10 feet -- pressure is about 4.3 PSI = about 66 gallons per hour.

stovepipe
 
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Hateful McNasty said:
Head - How high a pump can raise a liquid vertically.

Lift - Capability of a pump to pull a liquid that is situated below a pump’s centerline.

Now where do you set the pump up in relation to the unit to be cooled

Unit on table and pump near on the to floor? Or on shelve above , level to ? Hose sizing, restrictions ?
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I assume you're asking about my estimated flow rates in post #108.

In the case of the pumps I refer to, there is no lift because they are submersed in the water source. It's only the pump's head that is used in the calculations. I use the term "lift" and "head" interchangeablely because the marketing specs do that.

My estimates assume that the water exiting the compressor head is running through tubing that has its exit point below the surface of the water source that the water pump is in. I assume that there is no air in the lines.

My estimates only use the static head to calculate the PSI of the pump. I didn't try to figure in any possible drop in pump pressure when under load.

I didn't try to account for resistance in the line caused by direction changes of the water mass or surface tension or turbulance.

All calculations assume that about 10 feet of 1/4 inch inside diameter tubing is used.

These estimates are a bit rough and probably a bit high -- a better estimate might be about 15% less than what I came up with.

Regarding the location of the compressor head relative to the surface of the water source that the pump and exit tube are submerged in:
Once the water pump has primed the system so that there is NO air in the lines, then gravity no longer plays a part in the flow rate because the water is being returned back into the water source. In other words, for every up hill section in the line, there is a down hill section in the line that cancels it out. The overall change in elevation of the water being moved through the system relative to the surface of the water source is zero.
So gravity isn't a problem with a primed circular movement of water, but the MASS of the water in the system between the water pump and the end of the exit tube IS a problem that will slow the flow rate. The only thing you can do to reduce the mass of water that the water pump has to move is to reduce the length of tubing that is being used -- even the tubing that is below the surface of the water source. Also minimize sharp turns in your line since that adds resistance.
So shorter lines are better, but having the water source under a table and the compressor on top of the table is certainly not a deal breaker as long as the pump can prime the system on start up.

stovepipe
 
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stovepipe said:
I assume you're asking about my estimated flow rates in post #108.

In the case of the pumps I refer to, there is no lift because they are submersed in the water source. It's only the pump's head that is used in the calculations. I use the term "lift" and "head" interchangeablely because the marketing specs do that.

My estimates assume that the water exiting the compressor head is running through tubing that has its exit point below the surface of the water source that the water pump is in. I assume that there is no air in the lines.

My estimates only use the static head to calculate the PSI of the pump. I didn't try to figure in any possible drop in pump pressure when under load.

I didn't try to account for resistance in the line caused by direction changes of the water mass or surface tension or turbulance.

All calculations assume that about 10 feet of 1/4 inch inside diameter tubing is used.

These estimates are a bit rough and probably a bit high -- a better estimate might be about 15% less than what I came up with.

Regarding the location of the compressor head relative to the surface of the water source that the pump and exit tube are submerged in:
Once the water pump has primed the system so that there is NO air in the lines, then gravity no longer plays a part in the flow rate because the water is being returned back into the water source. In other words, for every up hill section in the line, there is a down hill section in the line that cancels it out. The overall change in elevation of the water being moved through the system relative to the surface of the water source is zero.
So gravity isn't a problem with a primed circular movement of water, but the MASS of the water in the system between the water pump and the end of the exit tube IS a problem that will slow the flow rate. The only thing you can do to reduce the mass of water that the water pump has to move is to reduce the length of tubing that is being used -- even the tubing that is below the surface of the water source. Also minimize sharp turns in your line since that adds resistance.
So shorter lines are better, but having the water source under a table and the compressor on top of the table is certainly not a deal breaker as long as the pump can prime the system on start up.

stovepipe
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That's a lot to take in .. I'll go with cool water in.... hot water out 😂
 
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stovepipe said:
Yeah, I worked up those estimates because I was just curious about what to expect from the slightly better water pump I just ordered, and I was bored.

stovepipe
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Lol.. I would expect better from better ? Lol..

Well if it's circulation is good and your unit don't burn up it's good ..👍

At least in my opinion anyway .. 😁
 
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This is just a little thing, but I got this thermometer from amazon:

I really like it for several reasons.
It uses a single AAA battery -- a rechargable low self-discharge NIMH like an Eneloop will probably last more than 6 months.
Battery is easy to replace.
The probe is exposed metal -- not encased in plastic like the ones intended for salt-water fish tanks. The exposed-metal probes are more accurate in my experience.
It has a min/max button and a reset button. When you hit the reset button, it resets the min and max to the current temp. Hitting the min/max button cycles through min since reset or max since reset or back to current temp.
It does NOT have an on/off button and it does NOT have a backlight. I like this. An on/off switch is just something to go wrong. The display is so large that a backlight is totally unnecessary.
The probe cable is long -- more than 5 feet -- I'm guessing 6 feet.
The body has a magnet on the back and it also has a fold-out kick stand -- both are useful for positioning.
Mine is very accurate. After leaving the probe in my 20 gallons of water and leaving the water pump running for about 16 hours, the temperature of the water and compressor head are giving me the exact same reading -- currently 21.3 degrees C.
It has a button that toggles the temp readout between degrees F and degrees C -- nice touch.

stovepipe
 
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