So whats the deal with ASELKON???
- Thread starter Bud-sc
- Start date
Because they are garbage 
I bought a mx9 sniper because it looked cool, it was cheap new only $600 but when I got it I was pretty disappointed. The regulators are junk, piss poor accuracy, it was loud ass hell without a moderator, etc…. Just another Turkish made failure. It’s was basically a cool looking $600 boat anchor
I bought a mx9 sniper because it looked cool, it was cheap new only $600 but when I got it I was pretty disappointed. The regulators are junk, piss poor accuracy, it was loud ass hell without a moderator, etc…. Just another Turkish made failure. It’s was basically a cool looking $600 boat anchor Upvote 0
I got mine from airgun archery fun out of Canada, they used to sell a bunch of different models of Aselkon but looks like they only have one model advertised but it’s out of stock, and I would adventure to say that they won’t be getting anymore in to sell lol
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Because they are garbage
View attachment 333881
KInd of holy thread revival batman!
But..due me just closing book 1 on these rifles and thus just read this post of yours.
Agreed that out of the case they really are garbage. Shiny garbage even. However, that´s not the same as they can´t be turned around, cause they certainly can.
Loud?
Yep, and that´s due even the stock shroud being purely cosmetic as is from the factory. I made mine functional in a heartbeat by adding a diffusor tho.
However.
Indeed. Garbage. What that brought is that there isn´t ONE thing on this rifle i haven´t "rectified" but.. that done and a pill it likes sorted it actually shoots both really hard and accurate since. Yep. One hole group at 50 meters without breaking a sweat even.
Mine then as you can see the MX-10 bullpup flavor (same hardware just about though). Yep, it even came to getting rid of that god awful two comp PLASTIC clear coat some idiot at Aselkon decided on was a good idea to drape that actually wonderful walnut in. (Yeah i´m a sucker for oiled n buffed wood stocks.. so shoot me).
Even the entire valve setup has been revised completely, now running a 2mm stem poppet, separate o-ring sealed seat and what not. Fully ported and so on.. which paid off. Cause using heavier slugs on 218 diameter it shoots both hard and accurate.
AFAIK the barrel twist is on 1:15, so no wonder they thrive on the heavier offerings. I use this one mainly with slugs ranging between 34 and 40 grains (22cal). Tosses them 40´s @ 1060-1070 at will. Have it dialed a tad softer though as i have no need for that amount of power, got several other contenders better suited for that.
But again. NOTHING has been left as was. Not for the sake of it but the necessity. Nothing was up to par, to the letter. Not even the picatinny sub structure was usable as was.
That being said, if one regards these Aselkons as "kit guns" instead another picture emerge as i see it.
Thus i´m currently giving thought to a MX-9 "siper" too (again 22cal) as i now know what to expect.
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Took a bit of work, both of them on 100cc+ plenums and in 22cal.
Both spitting 40´s out the snout beyond 1050 at will. Barrels turns out to work real well using 218 slugs. Albeit i went ape on both stocks they still need to shave weight, both of them. Will look into that.
For now though they both simply work and work rather well. Both on all PEEK poppets and in turn 2mm diameter shanks, makes for a vast improvement in performance.
Regs on them can be had to work too, just a matter of understanding them and going at it.
Do any more than those two?
Nope.
Upvote 0
KInd of holy thread revival batman!
But..due me just closing book 1 on these rifles and thus just read this post of yours.
Agreed that out of the case they really are garbage. Shiny garbage even. However, that´s not the same as they can´t be turned around, cause they certainly can.
Loud?
Yep, and that´s due even the stock shroud being purely cosmetic as is from the factory. I made mine functional in a heartbeat by adding a diffusor tho.
However.
Indeed. Garbage. What that brought is that there isn´t ONE thing on this rifle i haven´t "rectified" but.. that done and a pill it likes sorted it actually shoots both really hard and accurate since. Yep. One hole group at 50 meters without breaking a sweat even.
Mine then as you can see the MX-10 bullpup flavor (same hardware just about though). Yep, it even came to getting rid of that god awful two comp PLASTIC clear coat some idiot at Aselkon decided on was a good idea to drape that actually wonderful walnut in. (Yeah i´m a sucker for oiled n buffed wood stocks.. so shoot me).
Even the entire valve setup has been revised completely, now running a 2mm stem poppet, separate o-ring sealed seat and what not. Fully ported and so on.. which paid off. Cause using heavier slugs on 218 diameter it shoots both hard and accurate.
AFAIK the barrel twist is on 1:15, so no wonder they thrive on the heavier offerings. I use this one mainly with slugs ranging between 34 and 40 grains (22cal). Tosses them 40´s @ 1060-1070 at will. Have it dialed a tad softer though as i have no need for that amount of power, got several other contenders better suited for that.
But again. NOTHING has been left as was. Not for the sake of it but the necessity. Nothing was up to par, to the letter. Not even the picatinny sub structure was usable as was.
That being said, if one regards these Aselkons as "kit guns" instead another picture emerge as i see it.
Thus i´m currently giving thought to a MX-9 "siper" too (again 22cal) as i now know what to expect.
Hmm this was what started realising today ... two days since i got mine, and nothing aselkon says is available online nothing...and international email didnt deliver i got failure return.
I searched for regulator adjustment and found this horrorshow on official youtube
My regulator meter/guage sits juuust above yellow at 100bar ... its not firing as hard as it should and could.
Tube pressure is 225 and thats what it was
When it arrived....ive shot 20 shots but a not much
To use as sight..
So im going to frankenMOD this like you mention here..
Ive noticed a funnny looking thing just behind the riffle‐body ... the housing with the handlever,
Behind that down in the stick a round thingy, here:
Whats that ?
Ill look through your post thorughly and if you have any tips or warnings im listening.
First i thought jeeeez, im selling to a sorry sucker for anything ... but i cant and decided im eating this for beeing dumbdumb a falling for glossy pics and slogans made up by their marketingfirm.
Cheers
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I´ll say this much, i´ll be happy to help out if i can.
So nope. You won´t be alone on this one.
Reg pressure can be raised, and that rather dramatic actually. Just.. it won´t stay on a given setting and this is due the folk at Aselkon deciding on that hard plastics isn´t needed for reg pressure seal.
ALL others, stock or aftermarket, do exactly this. Use at the bare min a hard plastic disc that the reg opening seals against.
Not Aselkon though. They knew better why the opening is sealed vs a soft rubber "puck" set into the housing.
Right.
A seal out of PEEK, or even brass, could be expected from say 140 bar up. Mans though need to safeguard, and below them 140 POM in my opinion no doubt is a very viable alternative.
POM will actually work rather well on higher pressures too, just not as long.
100 bar and you´re not even CLOSE to power potential on this piece. Let it be known though that the Aselkons that sport an internal reg to the tube MIGHT need an "extractor" in the form of a rod or similar on M13*1.
Living in metric country this is an odd thread even to me, but be so adviced. To be able to remove the reg in turn you´ll need a 1/4" drive with a 7 mill socket. This to remove the inlet orifice. As you do said M13 thread becomes evident.
It MIGHT move just using regular pliers, but don´t count on it. If you need to hand it all the onions, back off cause then a mandrel on M13*1 is simply needed.
For the sake of argument FX´s breech piece is on that thread, if you can´t find any other means. If not, might be able to score a M13*1 die on e-bay?
Anyways.
With the reg out the part that sits inwards is now to see and here´s the thing... The stack of belleville washers are there per regular but these are installed on a brass plunger and the last thing is that this entire enchillada is the bolted to the main reg housing via a larger "nut" (looks like).
Here the stock poppet with its brass bearing and seal next to the regulator, with the inlet orifice unbolted and said 7mm socket.
To increase reg pressure "there abouts" turn that LARGE brass nut like half a turn anti clockwise. This should hand you a step from say 100 bar to approx 150, which should suffice for extracting at least SOME power from that thing.
Install is just the reverse of how you took it apart. Reg pressure shows up right away as you fill it up, so if you feel the need for further adjustment just de-gas the gun and repeat.
In my opinion these units ain´t really let to shine until you ask them for some power. As far as that unmodified units (read - no external plenum added) seem to stonewall around the 65-75J mark for a 22. The former for the tube versions and the latter for the bottle guns.
Anymore than that and a plenum is needed.
HANDED a plenum on the other hand, coupled with porting and so forth, the really DO start to shine and as stated can be run rather on the jagged edge to no ills i´ve experienced so far.
Porting?
Yes.
As these are regulated guns just port to caliber size and be done with it. Ie; if a 22 make transfers 5.5mm and a 25 6,3mm (1/4") Point being that power can always be adjusted DOWN, it´s way harder to increase on a gun that isn´t let to breathe.
As you might have read up both of mine have been converted to run a poppet on a 2mm dia spindle. This is a very "free lunch" approach that carries basically no flipsides what so ever.
The use of PEEK plastic for a seal though i´d say is limited to guns expected to run 140 bar reg and up. If not, go POM.
In all fairness tho let´s also arrive on that these units were designed and built before the current wave of "plenums for all", which also tells massive amounts of intended power levels i guess.?
That being said.
"Tread gently, carry a big gun". Suspect anything in sight to be off spec, to the letter. EVERYTHING needs to be checked, Aselkons QC dept must have been in a locked cellar with no lights, let me put it that way.
But.
As i write above, regard it as a kit gun instead, if nothing else to keep your own sanity. Work steadily, go over piece by piece ´til happy.. one step at a time.
As i write first thing, i´ll be all to happy to assist as i can.
So nope. You won´t be alone on this one.
Reg pressure can be raised, and that rather dramatic actually. Just.. it won´t stay on a given setting and this is due the folk at Aselkon deciding on that hard plastics isn´t needed for reg pressure seal.
ALL others, stock or aftermarket, do exactly this. Use at the bare min a hard plastic disc that the reg opening seals against.
Not Aselkon though. They knew better why the opening is sealed vs a soft rubber "puck" set into the housing.
Right.
A seal out of PEEK, or even brass, could be expected from say 140 bar up. Mans though need to safeguard, and below them 140 POM in my opinion no doubt is a very viable alternative.
POM will actually work rather well on higher pressures too, just not as long.
100 bar and you´re not even CLOSE to power potential on this piece. Let it be known though that the Aselkons that sport an internal reg to the tube MIGHT need an "extractor" in the form of a rod or similar on M13*1.
Living in metric country this is an odd thread even to me, but be so adviced. To be able to remove the reg in turn you´ll need a 1/4" drive with a 7 mill socket. This to remove the inlet orifice. As you do said M13 thread becomes evident.
It MIGHT move just using regular pliers, but don´t count on it. If you need to hand it all the onions, back off cause then a mandrel on M13*1 is simply needed.
For the sake of argument FX´s breech piece is on that thread, if you can´t find any other means. If not, might be able to score a M13*1 die on e-bay?
Anyways.
With the reg out the part that sits inwards is now to see and here´s the thing... The stack of belleville washers are there per regular but these are installed on a brass plunger and the last thing is that this entire enchillada is the bolted to the main reg housing via a larger "nut" (looks like).
Here the stock poppet with its brass bearing and seal next to the regulator, with the inlet orifice unbolted and said 7mm socket.
To increase reg pressure "there abouts" turn that LARGE brass nut like half a turn anti clockwise. This should hand you a step from say 100 bar to approx 150, which should suffice for extracting at least SOME power from that thing.
Install is just the reverse of how you took it apart. Reg pressure shows up right away as you fill it up, so if you feel the need for further adjustment just de-gas the gun and repeat.
In my opinion these units ain´t really let to shine until you ask them for some power. As far as that unmodified units (read - no external plenum added) seem to stonewall around the 65-75J mark for a 22. The former for the tube versions and the latter for the bottle guns.
Anymore than that and a plenum is needed.
HANDED a plenum on the other hand, coupled with porting and so forth, the really DO start to shine and as stated can be run rather on the jagged edge to no ills i´ve experienced so far.
Porting?
Yes.
As these are regulated guns just port to caliber size and be done with it. Ie; if a 22 make transfers 5.5mm and a 25 6,3mm (1/4") Point being that power can always be adjusted DOWN, it´s way harder to increase on a gun that isn´t let to breathe.
As you might have read up both of mine have been converted to run a poppet on a 2mm dia spindle. This is a very "free lunch" approach that carries basically no flipsides what so ever.
The use of PEEK plastic for a seal though i´d say is limited to guns expected to run 140 bar reg and up. If not, go POM.
In all fairness tho let´s also arrive on that these units were designed and built before the current wave of "plenums for all", which also tells massive amounts of intended power levels i guess.?
That being said.
"Tread gently, carry a big gun". Suspect anything in sight to be off spec, to the letter. EVERYTHING needs to be checked, Aselkons QC dept must have been in a locked cellar with no lights, let me put it that way.
But.
As i write above, regard it as a kit gun instead, if nothing else to keep your own sanity. Work steadily, go over piece by piece ´til happy.. one step at a time.
As i write first thing, i´ll be all to happy to assist as i can.
Upvote 0
I´ll say this much, i´ll be happy to help out if i can.
So nope. You won´t be alone on this one.
Reg pressure can be raised, and that rather dramatic actually. Just.. it won´t stay on a given setting and this is due the folk at Aselkon deciding on that hard plastics isn´t needed for reg pressure seal.
ALL others, stock or aftermarket, do exactly this. Use at the bare min a hard plastic disc that the reg opening seals against.
Not Aselkon though. They knew better why the opening is sealed vs a soft rubber "puck" set into the housing.
Right.
A seal out of PEEK, or even brass, could be expected from say 140 bar up. Mans though need to safeguard, and below them 140 POM in my opinion no doubt is a very viable alternative.
POM will actually work rather well on higher pressures too, just not as long.
100 bar and you´re not even CLOSE to power potential on this piece. Let it be known though that the Aselkons that sport an internal reg to the tube MIGHT need an "extractor" in the form of a rod or similar on M13*1.
Living in metric country this is an odd thread even to me, but be so adviced. To be able to remove the reg in turn you´ll need a 1/4" drive with a 7 mill socket. This to remove the inlet orifice. As you do said M13 thread becomes evident.
It MIGHT move just using regular pliers, but don´t count on it. If you need to hand it all the onions, back off cause then a mandrel on M13*1 is simply needed.
For the sake of argument FX´s breech piece is on that thread, if you can´t find any other means. If not, might be able to score a M13*1 die on e-bay?
Anyways.
With the reg out the part that sits inwards is now to see and here´s the thing... The stack of belleville washers are there per regular but these are installed on a brass plunger and the last thing is that this entire enchillada is the bolted to the main reg housing via a larger "nut" (looks like).
Here the stock poppet with its brass bearing and seal next to the regulator, with the inlet orifice unbolted and said 7mm socket.
To increase reg pressure "there abouts" turn that LARGE brass nut like half a turn anti clockwise. This should hand you a step from say 100 bar to approx 150, which should suffice for extracting at least SOME power from that thing.
Install is just the reverse of how you took it apart. Reg pressure shows up right away as you fill it up, so if you feel the need for further adjustment just de-gas the gun and repeat.
In my opinion these units ain´t really let to shine until you ask them for some power. As far as that unmodified units (read - no external plenum added) seem to stonewall around the 65-75J mark for a 22. The former for the tube versions and the latter for the bottle guns.
Anymore than that and a plenum is needed.
HANDED a plenum on the other hand, coupled with porting and so forth, the really DO start to shine and as stated can be run rather on the jagged edge to no ills i´ve experienced so far.
Porting?
Yes.
As these are regulated guns just port to caliber size and be done with it. Ie; if a 22 make transfers 5.5mm and a 25 6,3mm (1/4") Point being that power can always be adjusted DOWN, it´s way harder to increase on a gun that isn´t let to breathe.
As you might have read up both of mine have been converted to run a poppet on a 2mm dia spindle. This is a very "free lunch" approach that carries basically no flipsides what so ever.
The use of PEEK plastic for a seal though i´d say is limited to guns expected to run 140 bar reg and up. If not, go POM.
In all fairness tho let´s also arrive on that these units were designed and built before the current wave of "plenums for all", which also tells massive amounts of intended power levels i guess.?
That being said.
"Tread gently, carry a big gun". Suspect anything in sight to be off spec, to the letter. EVERYTHING needs to be checked, Aselkons QC dept must have been in a locked cellar with no lights, let me put it that way.
But.
As i write above, regard it as a kit gun instead, if nothing else to keep your own sanity. Work steadily, go over piece by piece ´til happy.. one step at a time.
As i write first thing, i´ll be all to happy to assist as i can.
That is so great to hear, thanks..fantastic news i have to say.
Kinda late answer sorry, not been home been out shooting and tuning a red dot scope from bushnell, that was way easier than what i thougt..
Ill have to look at your whole answer now....
Thanks again my Man !
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a friend of mine got one, had it for 2 days and sent it back for refund.
i think he told me he shot it 3 times and
i think he told me he shot it 3 times and
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I really enjoyed @Racing article on Aselkon. I have a Ravello Rx6 in 22 cal that I have shot for a year and a half with probably 800 rounds thru it. It shoots relatively well, however it leaks now. Nice to see the regulator apart. I haven’t been able to get mine out of the tube. But now I have a new FX Impact M3 30 cal. 600mm bbl. So now if I break something it’s not as dire.
Tried to order a new reg but sale won’t complete. Very little support from Aselkon. They don’t answer emails and I just can’t wrap my head around calling Turkey about it.
Tried to order a new reg but sale won’t complete. Very little support from Aselkon. They don’t answer emails and I just can’t wrap my head around calling Turkey about it.
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Have to say, a little puzzled as far as what´d break within that reg?
I´m all good with that the rubber puck seal is rubbish, and SHOULD be replaced, but that aside the rest of it is way more die hard?
I´m all good with that the rubber puck seal is rubbish, and SHOULD be replaced, but that aside the rest of it is way more die hard?
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Yeah.a friend of mine got one, had it for 2 days and sent it back for refund.
i think he told me he shot it 3 times and
Make no mistake.
These are tinkerers guns. No two ways about that. To get a decent behaving gun sporting stellar accuracy takes work and know-how in the case of the Aselkons.
All, as noted above, sure isn´t lost though and handed what they crave they can be made both powerful (for a 22cal pcp at least) and accurate. What really saves the day is them barrels, which for a low cost pcp is better than it gets really.
So if you´re pcp savy this is def a gun brand for you.
Pay accordingly though.
That said, to this day (still keep both of them) that stock on the MX-10 is just beautiful and that´s that.
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Yea I’m learning about pcps still. I have had the Aselkon apart about 3 or 4 times hoping it was just the o rings leaking. Your asesement really helped and the next time it comes apart I’m going to tackle the regulator removal. So do you replace the rubber donut with hard plastic to seal it ?
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