Beeman Some 97K tuning experiments.

Experiments because I haven't done this before and I don't have a "milling machine", but I do have a very rigid drill press and a lathe. But I wouldn't recommend doing it this way because it was a PITA, but I managed to make it work.
I'm talking about buttoning the piston and compression tube on my 97K, which I've been contemplating doing for some time.
I started out by truing up the runout between the piston head and the piston body on the lathe which wasn't much .003" radial and .002" axial, probably doesn't matter, but I did it anyway. Then drilled the blind holes on the drill press 140rpm using a 3/16 carbide, 4-flute center cutting end mill
IMG_7396.jpeg
.This was set up as rigid as possible, being as close to the stubbed up end mill as I could, only having to feed the quill down less than a 1/2", and my drill press will go down to 140 rpm's, which I used. Only drilling about .025" deep, I have a indicator rigged up for a depth stop.
IMG_7398.jpeg

Two buttons on top and four on the bottom.
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Next I made the buttons on the lathe for a snug fit and super glued them in place. Then dialed the piston in with the 4 jaw chuck and turned them for a slip fit in the compression tube.
IMG_7399.jpeg

Piston came out good with a nice sliding fit in the compression tube, now the piston will stay centered in the tube.
IMG_7401.jpeg

Now for the compression tube. I had heard that it was case hardened, but it wasn't as hard as I had thought it might be, and no match for the carbide end mill. I did go slow with it though. Before I started, I machined a delrin plug for a snug fit inside the compression tube, and this I think, helped with the rigidity when buttoning and when chucking in the lathe to turn the buttons.
IMG_7429.jpeg

I put four buttons on the top and four buttons on the bottom, machined them for a slip fit in the receiver. These next pictures are where I have already applied the Krytox lube GPL223 on the piston and compression tube, so you can see how little I use on them. This is the bottom....
IMG_7412.jpeg

And this is the top. I have blued the front portion that will "show" when it's in the receiver as well as the face of the compression tube.
IMG_7411.jpeg

I also machined a new oring piston cap with the trued up piston so it's all concentric less than .0005" and installed a new Viton oring.
IMG_7413.jpeg

I'm still using the old JM QX4600 spring with my guide kit that's spaced up to max, it has thousands of shots on it and still going. Assembled it all back together for testing.
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Initial impressions, I like it. Cocking is smooth with no play, a lot more solid when closing. Just seems more solid all around. Of course it will break in over time. I assume the oring piston will also break in over time and speed up some. I only shot a 100 pellets today before it started raining again.
These are the first shots at 40 yards benched, all 10 shot groups, shot in order 1 thru 5.
IMG_7427.jpeg

After the 4th group it started to settle in and group. These were shot with QYS 8.48 pellets.
I chronied with the Garmin Xcero.
IMG_7424.jpeg

Next I tried the AA 8.4's top row, then two more groups with the QYS bottom row, it started raining so I stopped shooting. But the chrony numbers sped up a little by the last two groups, so oring is settling in.
IMG_7428.jpeg

I think after some more shooting it will be good. Very solid shot cycle, and pleased with the effort. I don't want to do it again no time soon..lol. I forgot to check the piston latch rod runout, but I've done this in the past several times. I also need to touch up some bluing and wanted to make screw cups. And ultimately get a walnut stock of some sort.✌🏻
 
Very nice. I'm interested in learning more about your o-ring piston seal set up.
It's not my design, Ed Canoles was the original maker. I bought one from him years ago, and since, I've made a couple for my 97K and 77K.
The one I had in my (now sold) 77K I made from delrin. And it held up pretty good, it's still in that 77K as far as I know. It shot a little more snappier than my 97K with the aluminum oring cap.
30F82118-C043-44B1-BAB4-C602F600B297.jpeg

I'm not sure if Ed still makes these for sale or not.
But if you search the old yellow archives there days and days of reading to be found on his oring
adventures. He's the one that turned me on to using Krytox as well. The compression tube guns aren't that hard to fit them to, it's the break barrels with their out of round and tapered long receiver tubes that require a lot of work. Mostly honing to get them round and straight enough to accept a oring seal. Some guns are so bad you can't use a oring seal. Ed had it down to a science.
 
It's not my design, Ed Canoles was the original maker. I bought one from him years ago, and since, I've made a couple for my 97K and 77K.
The one I had in my (now sold) 77K I made from delrin. And it held up pretty good, it's still in that 77K as far as I know. It shot a little more snappier than my 97K with the aluminum oring cap.
View attachment 500791
I'm not sure if Ed still makes these for sale or not.
But if you search the old yellow archives there days and days of reading to be found on his oring
adventures. He's the one that turned me on to using Krytox as well. The compression tube guns aren't that hard to fit them to, it's the break barrels with their out of round and tapered long receiver tubes that require a lot of work. Mostly honing to get them round and straight enough to accept a oring seal. Some guns are so bad you can't use a oring seal. Ed had it down to a science.
Yeah. I have a lot of respect for Ed. I've seen lots of his post. Good stuff. Eight out of ten Weihrauchs I have are break barrels the other's are a P1 and 97. I'm quite familiar with the woes of sloppy comp tubes. They've gotting worse recently with the welded tubing they're using now.

Being in Arkansas I'm also familiar with the excessive thermal expansion issues full cap Weihrauch piston seals suffer. Eventually I'll have a shop built with some machine equipment and I'll work out a solution. That and the ability to turn my own guides, tophats and spacers will be nice. I have a few ideas but they're on hold until I can make them myself.
 
Experiments because I haven't done this before and I don't have a "milling machine", but I do have a very rigid drill press and a lathe. But I wouldn't recommend doing it this way because it was a PITA, but I managed to make it work.
I'm talking about buttoning the piston and compression tube on my 97K, which I've been contemplating doing for some time.
I started out by truing up the runout between the piston head and the piston body on the lathe which wasn't much .003" radial and .002" axial, probably doesn't matter, but I did it anyway. Then drilled the blind holes on the drill press 140rpm using a 3/16 carbide, 4-flute center cutting end mill
View attachment 500763.This was set up as rigid as possible, being as close to the stubbed up end mill as I could, only having to feed the quill down less than a 1/2", and my drill press will go down to 140 rpm's, which I used. Only drilling about .025" deep, I have a indicator rigged up for a depth stop.
View attachment 500764
Two buttons on top and four on the bottom.
View attachment 500766
Next I made the buttons on the lathe for a snug fit and super glued them in place. Then dialed the piston in with the 4 jaw chuck and turned them for a slip fit in the compression tube.
View attachment 500767
Piston came out good with a nice sliding fit in the compression tube, now the piston will stay centered in the tube.
View attachment 500768
Now for the compression tube. I had heard that it was case hardened, but it wasn't as hard as I had thought it might be, and no match for the carbide end mill. I did go slow with it though. Before I started, I machined a delrin plug for a snug fit inside the compression tube, and this I think, helped with the rigidity when buttoning and when chucking in the lathe to turn the buttons.
View attachment 500770
I put four buttons on the top and four buttons on the bottom, machined them for a slip fit in the receiver. These next pictures are where I have already applied the Krytox lube GPL223 on the piston and compression tube, so you can see how little I use on them. This is the bottom....
View attachment 500773
And this is the top. I have blued the front portion that will "show" when it's in the receiver as well as the face of the compression tube.
View attachment 500774
I also machined a new oring piston cap with the trued up piston so it's all concentric less than .0005" and installed a new Viton oring.
View attachment 500775
I'm still using the old JM QX4600 spring with my guide kit that's spaced up to max, it has thousands of shots on it and still going. Assembled it all back together for testing.
View attachment 500776
View attachment 500777
Initial impressions, I like it. Cocking is smooth with no play, a lot more solid when closing. Just seems more solid all around. Of course it will break in over time. I assume the oring piston will also break in over time and speed up some. I only shot a 100 pellets today before it started raining again.
These are the first shots at 40 yards benched, all 10 shot groups, shot in order 1 thru 5.
View attachment 500778
After the 4th group it started to settle in and group. These were shot with QYS 8.48 pellets.
I chronied with the Garmin Xcero.
View attachment 500779
Next I tried the AA 8.4's top row, then two more groups with the QYS bottom row, it started raining so I stopped shooting. But the chrony numbers sped up a little by the last two groups, so oring is settling in.
View attachment 500783
I think after some more shooting it will be good. Very solid shot cycle, and pleased with the effort. I don't want to do it again no time soon..lol. I forgot to check the piston latch rod runout, but I've done this in the past several times. I also need to touch up some bluing and wanted to make screw cups. And ultimately get a walnut stock of some sort.✌🏻
Wow!
 
Yeah. I have a lot of respect for Ed. I've seen lots of his post. Good stuff. Eight out of ten Weihrauchs I have are break barrels the other's are a P1 and 97. I'm quite familiar with the woes of sloppy comp tubes. They've gotting worse recently with the welded tubing they're using now.

Being in Arkansas I'm also familiar with the excessive thermal expansion issues full cap Weihrauch piston seals suffer. Eventually I'll have a shop built with some machine equipment and I'll work out a solution. That and the ability to turn my own guides, tophats and spacers will be nice. I have a few ideas but they're on hold until I can make them myself.
You don't have to build a shop to get a small lathe. I work in my garage, but any small out building would work. Some people have them in their houses..lol.
 
You don't have to build a shop to get a small lathe. I work in my garage, but any small out building would work. Some people have them in their houses..lol.
Thanks, I understand that. By shop, I mean a small room in an outbuilding 😉. Have a temporary shop or really hobby room where my bedroom is supposed to be. I need an outbuilding built for various typical homesteading purposes. That outbuilding will have my work benches and some basic machinery. IE drill press, small metal lathe and milling machine. It and an upstairs guest room will be climate controlled. This has been planned for two years but needed home improvements and continual rotation of terrible contractors has prolonged it's completion. I'm waiting to buy the machinery because my current work space is small and temporary. Eventually everything should come together. Thanks to the lack of available good contractors it's just taking much much longer than I thought.

IMG_1821.jpeg


image.jpg
 
It's not my design, Ed Canoles was the original maker. I bought one from him years ago, and since, I've made a couple for my 97K and 77K.
The one I had in my (now sold) 77K I made from delrin. And it held up pretty good, it's still in that 77K as far as I know. It shot a little more snappier than my 97K with the aluminum oring cap.
View attachment 500791
I'm not sure if Ed still makes these for sale or not.
But if you search the old yellow archives there days and days of reading to be found on his oring
adventures. He's the one that turned me on to using Krytox as well. The compression tube guns aren't that hard to fit them to, it's the break barrels with their out of round and tapered long receiver tubes that require a lot of work. Mostly honing to get them round and straight enough to accept a oring seal. Some guns are so bad you can't use a oring seal. Ed had it down to a science.
Nice work. a sturdy drill press woks fine for drop in milling.
 
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Thanks, I understand that. By shop, I mean a small room in an outbuilding 😉. Have a temporary shop or really hobby room where my bedroom is supposed to be. I need an outbuilding built for various typical homesteading purposes. That outbuilding will have my work benches and some basic machinery. IE drill press, small metal lathe and milling machine. It and an upstairs guest room will be climate controlled. This has been planned for two years but needed home improvements and continual rotation of terrible contractors has prolonged it's completion. I'm waiting to buy the machinery because my current work space is small and temporary. Eventually everything should come together. Thanks to the lack of available good contractors it's just taking much much longer than I thought.

View attachment 500843

View attachment 500844
I have a shop that I moved onto this property, but I haven’t finished this place and my shop is a mini storage at the moment.

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I painted and added a lean too on it.

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I added a shop level deck, between the house and the shop.

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Someday I’ll get it finished.