Benjamin SOME ASSEMBLY REQUIRED??

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BABz58

BABz58

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Dec 18, 2023
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United States Pleasant Hill Iowa
Things that make you go hmmmmm.

My 44in long Kratos just showed up in a 30in box. I’m heading back to work and haven’t opened it yet.

Guessing the seller removed the barrel and shroud to save shipping in a bigger box. Or he shipped me a Red Ryder by mistake lol

Quite the assumption on the part of the seller to think everyone is an air gun mechanic lol.
 
Hateful McNasty said:
I'd guess the common remove stock . Maybe 4 easy screws?
Click to expand...
Yup. You win. It was just the stock removed. 1 screw.

IMG_2724.jpeg
 
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MongooseV8 said:
Congrats looks like a nice one. If you arent a pcp mechanic yet this can be your start down the rabbit hole. ;)
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The first thing will be to refinish the stock. Bring out that beautiful grain. While that’s drying I’ll work on the trigger. Then polish the barrel.
Looking forward to shooting it.
 
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6gun said:
What will your choice for finish be? I'm a wood pusher by trade 😂. Inquiring minds and whatnot.
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Well I’m undecided ATM. But I have here at home some Boiled Linseed oil, Tru-Oil, Pure Tung Oil, and automotive 2k Satin clear coat.

Any of these striking you? Or would your recommendation be something else entirely?
 
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BABz58 said:
Well I’m undecided ATM. But I have here at home some Boiled Linseed oil, Tru-Oil, Pure Tung Oil, and automotive 2k Satin clear coat.

Any of these striking you? Or would your recommendation be something else entirely?
Click to expand...
If you intend to carry it around, store it with others in a safe and use it beyond looking at it, my preference is an easily repaired oil finish. It took a long time but I did a AAA fancy walnut crotch rifle stock with gloss(low solids) pure tung oil. It came out great a month later since I wanted close to 100% grain fill. Tru oil I believe is a modern poly clear and isn't my style. Im a big fan of blo for a rifle you'll use. If its mostly for target and bench use and showing off, automotive clear all day with enough prep work and color sanding to make the low rider painters jealous.

Intended use is first and foremost in my thought process as my toys suffer a bit of "hangar rash" eventually. I'm happy to help if you were to ever have a question. Especially dealing with dents, stain types and application methods.
 
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6gun said:
If you intend to carry it around, store it with others in a safe and use it beyond looking at it, my preference is an easily repaired oil finish. It took a long time but I did a AAA fancy walnut crotch rifle stock with gloss(low solids) pure tung oil. It came out great a month later since I wanted close to 100% grain fill. Tru oil I believe is a modern poly clear and isn't my style. Im a big fan of blo for a rifle you'll use. If its mostly for target and bench use and showing off, automotive clear all day with enough prep work and color sanding to make the low rider painters jealous.

Intended use is first and foremost in my thought process as my toys suffer a bit of "hangar rash" eventually. I'm happy to help if you were to ever have a question. Especially dealing with dents, stain types and application methods.
Click to expand...
“Especially dealing with dents, stain types and application methods.”
Funny you say that. It happens to have some dings that need raised.
Also would like to do some selective staining in places on it. IE:darken,shading.
I’ll have to message you.
 
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BABz58 said:
“Especially dealing with dents, stain types and application methods.”
Funny you say that. It happens to have some dings that need raised.
Also would like to do some selective staining in places on it. IE:darken,shading.
I’ll have to message you.
Click to expand...
For the lurkers benefit, you can use a larger one but I use a small iron for covering rc planes with plastic called monokote and a damp rag to steam dents up and then blend it in with sandpaper do the grain takes stain similarly. I don't know what you have at your disposal for tools, chemicals, and technique but I would probably use an acetone thinned penetrating dye stain and an airbrush to fog some Medium Brown Walnut on the areas I needed to darken to match(heavy on the acetone so you can take baby steps on shade darkening) . You can also do this between wiping stain coats or after (to a lesser effect) and before oil if you give it a good dry time and are gentle.

This is the unicorn product advice. IF, IF you could find a can of oldschool watco oil at a yard sale or an estate sale it would cover you in all directions. I have a can that's almost as old as me that I used to refinish my benji 392 stock. On walnut that stuff is nearly magical.
 
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6gun said:
For the lurkers benefit, you can use a larger one but I use a small iron for covering rc planes with plastic called monokote and a damp rag to steam dents up and then blend it in with sandpaper do the grain takes stain similarly. I don't know what you have at your disposal for tools, chemicals, and technique but I would probably use an acetone thinned penetrating dye stain and an airbrush to fog some Medium Brown Walnut on the areas I needed to darken to match(heavy on the acetone so you can take baby steps on shade darkening) . You can also do this between wiping stain coats or after (to a lesser effect) and before oil if you give it a good dry time and are gentle.

This is the unicorn product advice. IF, IF you could find a can of oldschool watco oil at a yard sale or an estate sale it would cover you in all directions. I have a can that's almost as old as me that I used to refinish my benji 392 stock. On walnut that stuff is nearly magical.
Click to expand...
Excellent information. I appreciate it.
 
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6gun said:
If you intend to carry it around, store it with others in a safe and use it beyond looking at it, my preference is an easily repaired oil finish. It took a long time but I did a AAA fancy walnut crotch rifle stock with gloss(low solids) pure tung oil. It came out great a month later since I wanted close to 100% grain fill. Tru oil I believe is a modern poly clear and isn't my style. Im a big fan of blo for a rifle you'll use. If its mostly for target and bench use and showing off, automotive clear all day with enough prep work and color sanding to make the low rider painters jealous.

Intended use is first and foremost in my thought process as my toys suffer a bit of "hangar rash" eventually. I'm happy to help if you were to ever have a question. Especially dealing with dents, stain types and application methods.
Click to expand...
You ever tried Kiwi shoe polish to refinish a stock?
 
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BABz58 said:
Well I’m undecided ATM. But I have here at home some Boiled Linseed oil, Tru-Oil, Pure Tung Oil, and automotive 2k Satin clear coat.

Any of these striking you? Or would your recommendation be something else entirely?
Click to expand...
Looks just fine as is .. but I've been a nothin fancy tung oil guy. Sand and rub it in nice😉
 
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