Tuning SPA/Artemis P10 P15 P35 tuning

I've watched some of his youtubes but they can be hard to follow when they are not in English and there are no English subtitles. Seems to know what he is doing. I do not love Facebook but there is an Artemis page that can be useful.
In YT, You can select automatic translation to English, but they talk so fast that, at least for me, it is hard to follow the automatic translation.
You switch on subtitles, then next to CC button is settings, from there select subtitles, then select Auto-translate and then You can choose language.
 
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Speeds that You see in that video are not out-of-the-box speeds.
Out of the box speed for JSB Exact monster RD was average 873fps (11 shots, spread 11, STD 3.0). No internals de-burred, cleaned, hammer spring was maxed out. Barrel cleaned before shooting the gun.
Then I took gun apart and de-burred barrel lead, pellet probe and pretty much every hole in the gun. Remover sharp edges where there should not be sharp edges.
Changed few O-rings that were damaged during assembly in factory due to those sharp edges. For example, transfer port hole in main block.
Then polished hammer, because machining marks on hammer were too obvious and perpendicular to hammer movement.
The cocking mechanism was stiff and binding wen moving cocking handle forward, last 10-15mm (~0.5"). Got that moving very smoothly and with no restrictions other than hammer cocking.
After that took a closer look at the barrel. Crown was looking like someone did it with drill and drill bit with an angle of 90 degrees, and drill bit chattering. And it was deep. Doing all that I was so into it that forgot to take before picture of that crown. Anyway did a new crown. Did 11 degree crown protective face and little 45 degree crown.
Also did open up transfer port in barrel, from 3.0mm to 3.5mm. Transfer in block is 5mm. Then de-burred and polished barrel lead.
Polished barrel inside.
Putting gun back together I left hammer spring tension screw flush with the back of the block. From factory HS tension screw was turned in all the way, bottomed out.
Trigger and air cylinder remained untouched. But intend to lighten trigger pull a bit.

Closest picture of the crown that I found from internet (mine was cut 2 times deeper):


p35-crown-jpg.285781


And crown made by me:
AMWts8DRcmEm-ZLsxb6ThvIRvHfeEqeRUAjF3JIRR1fOF3_dV18uqE4RBWIWogjYRNkTBke4R3XadDQUdIeEj0VYyEzoH9Pj-Ciyftnia2XfgBj1jQC4COFhVEhuoDgYxBh_Iapf5zdi0jur7sqXccjzvqjA7Q=w703-h937-no


Then did that in-shroud moderator upgrade.

Comparison in speeds between out of the box and after fiddling with the gun.
Out of the box:
1. JSB Hades .177, 10.34gr - 11 shot average 889fps
2. JSB KO slugs .177, 10.03gr - 11 shot average 881fps

After fiddling:
1. JSB Hades .177, 10.34gr - 11 shot average 971fps - gain in speed 82fps
2. JSB KO slugs .177, 10.03gr - 11 shot average 949fps - gain in speed 68fps

Bare in mind that HS tensioner was backed out, flush with the block in that after fiddling test.
Well I'm impressed.

To find the most accurate pellet/slug for this setup, is ongoing process at the moment. What I've managed to accomplish at the moment is at the end of the video in previous post.

May be in need of a softer HS... to shoot those .177 Hades...
 
Crown was looking like someone did it with drill and drill bit with an angle of 90 degrees, and drill bit chattering.
Yeah unfortunately SPA’s barrel machining has always been pretty horrid. Which is a shame because their barrels tend to be quite good once the workmanship defects are corrected. The silver lining in this particular case is that they did not trash the rifling at the muzzle with a piloted crowning tool like they did on both of my SPA rifles purchased years apart. At least I don’t think so, it’s hard to tell in the photo.
 
Has any of P15/P35 owners managed to get information of the barrel twist rate?
I've been trying. I even ordered a one piece .17 cal cleaning rod with a rotating handle to try and figure it out. Dang if I can cut a cleaning patch to the right dimension to actually rotate. So far I can only manage to get them too big to go in the tiny bore or so loose they won't rotate.
 
I've been trying. I even ordered a one piece .17 cal cleaning rod with a rotating handle to try and figure it out. Dang if I can cut a cleaning patch to the right dimension to actually rotate. So far I can only manage to get them too big to go in the tiny bore or so loose they won't rotate.
I'm using patchworm and 7/8" patches and 4.5mm felt buttons for cleaning and when pulling them through I can feel them twisting pulling cord.

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For tightness wise, I sometimes combine 2 patches like this, the one on the left:

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