Springer lube?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
No moly for the piston seal. That's what is making it honk. Pure silicone oil , a drop or two in the chamber and let it sit for a day. You may get a few errant shots after treatment but that will be the gun shooting off any extra lube. Also I will suggest you clean the barrel after about a hundred shots as some excess lube will deposit in it and may effect accuracy.

Edit: I noticed the opening may be confusing. I meant the piston seal is causing the honk and not to use moly for it. Moly is for metal to metal contact surfaces and not meant for piston seals.
 
Upvote 0
I have used a moly paste for over 10 years now with a moly paste on all my 15+ tuned springers. It's sold by James Maccari at his site airrifleheadquarters.com web site. Maccari and Paul Watts (famous turner) are legends in the springer field.

Most of my home tunes have been in the R9 power class but a few have been in the R1 power region as well as the R7 class. The one exception to that is an old leather piston sealed rifle where I use silicon to soak into the leather. As mentioned earlier you don't use a lot of it. I work a little into a long Q-tip kind of applicator (enough to color the cotton) then very lightly coat the inside of the compression tube. I then rub some moly paste onto the rear of the piston seal - again not too much. Should you apply too much it will diesel but most of the time I've only noted a short period of time where I can smell the burning of lube.

A couple years ago a avid R9 lover and extremely well versed user of the R9 platform currently going by the handle of 'nced' started using a product named Krytox (Dupont GPL 205) with great success. His goal was to find a smaller velocity variation in different temperatures. I have yet to try it but have no doubt it would work and it does not diesel.

Can't say I've seen much on the use of silicon on a synthetic seal but it might work good as well.

 
Upvote 0
Justin if you are going to put silicon oil down the air outlet (I don't know the correct terminology) I only ever used one or two drops. Don't use any more than 2 drops or you could do some damage. I then stood the rifle up on its butt for a couple of days so it would work its way down. You will notice the increased sound when you first fire it, but it goes quickly.

I'm not up on RWS 34's but most new piston seals I believe are infused with molly or some type of lubricant. I have stopped using silicone oil now as I only use molly on the piston when I strip a rifle down.

Justin if the honk is coming from the spring /compression chamber section no amount of silicon oil will quieten it down imo. You will need to strip it down and use a quality sound deadening grease or something similar like molly. The guys out there or your local gun shop are better qualified then me on what to use to deaden a spring noise. If it's from the muzzle end try a heavier pellet. 

Hope this helps
Gary
 
Upvote 0
I had to order chamber and spring cylinder oil after spending the afternoon looking locally. I should've ordered some moly grease, but had a brain fart and forgot. I'll try a drop or two of chamber oil and oil the spring with a few drops to see if it helps. If it doesn't I'll build a spring compressor and disassemble it and do a full clean and proper lube job.

Thanks guys.

BTW I took the action out of the stock and what I can see appears to be dry as a bone.
 
Upvote 0
Personally, I purchase the manufacturers recomended lube for my RWS mdl 54. I did "tune" a "Beeman" RS2 though; Heavy black tar grease on the spring, Moly paste on the piston (sparingly) and RWS Air Chamber Lube. I did this for practice, it was my first time. However, the spring did quiet down as expected and it seems to shoot much smoother with no loss of power. Now, if I could just fix the trigger. I did find info on a trigger tune, I'm looking for parts now. 
 
Upvote 0
"Minor dieseling is normal in a spring gun."
Even when I used dinosaur grease based molly lubes a few years ago, if there was "smoke in the hole" of a Greyhound Bus Stop diesel smell after a shot I knew that the diesel prone lube was getting in front of the piston seal and the gun was broken down for a "clean up". Also, occasional visible, audible, "smellable dieseling" is a good sign of inconsistent velocities and poi.

A few years ago I stripped all my springers of the "dieseling prone dinisaur grease based molly lubes" and have been using non-dieseling Dupont Krytox GPL205 since. Being non-dieseling a Krytox lubing isn't nearly as tedious as when using molly paste/tars, Krytox is less affected by temperature shifting during a shooting session, and Krytox doesn't outgas like petro based lubes that tend to get "cakey" with time. LOL.....I have a tub of heavy tar that I bought years ago when using molly bearing lubes and the stuff got thick enough to support a socket head cap screw on the side of the container embedded in only a few "half threads" of tar even though the container was sealed between use..........

Q2gK841l.jpg

49r76NWl.jpg


I do agree however that dieseling is common for new guns that have been excessively lubed at the factory. Still, even though my newest .177 HW95 was lubed like this from the factory, there was no "smoke in the hole" or "diesel bus smell" even from the first shots.........
9QHYK4il.jpg


 
Upvote 0
I finally got my oil, put two drops in the chamber and let it sit for two days. Today I put six drops of spring oil in it, reassembled and ran about 300 pellets through it. After 60 or so I cleaned the barrel then spent the afternoon learning how the rifle likes to be held. The honking is gone and it's much easier to cock now and doesn't seem to be as noisy as it was before.

Thanks for the help guys.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu