3 of these barrels arrived to me with a very last train from ebay/Russia back in Feb.2022.
These are Russian Stainless Steel #1045 material, much softer then we got used here in America, I learned this I had to rework the muzzle end threads on the lathe and the cutting chip is well defined also I recrown them to my liking, and I got a feel the steel is a bit softer.
This .22x500 barrel is mounted to my L2, 15.5" TR polygonal rifling - non chocked - is a MOA accurate with .22 MRD's up to 75 meters this far I have it documented.
I would like to make it black as much the L2 handguard, but I did not decided yet to blue/black only the portion at front that is sticking out or the entire length.
Couple years ago I purchased two Birchwood packages for aluminum and steel tuch-ups if needed anywhere on my airguns, but stil never opened these bottles yet, so I don't know nothing how those work.
What other DIY tricks would you suggest from your experience? Sending out for ceracoating at my place is not budget friendly.
These are Russian Stainless Steel #1045 material, much softer then we got used here in America, I learned this I had to rework the muzzle end threads on the lathe and the cutting chip is well defined also I recrown them to my liking, and I got a feel the steel is a bit softer.
This .22x500 barrel is mounted to my L2, 15.5" TR polygonal rifling - non chocked - is a MOA accurate with .22 MRD's up to 75 meters this far I have it documented.
I would like to make it black as much the L2 handguard, but I did not decided yet to blue/black only the portion at front that is sticking out or the entire length.
Couple years ago I purchased two Birchwood packages for aluminum and steel tuch-ups if needed anywhere on my airguns, but stil never opened these bottles yet, so I don't know nothing how those work.
What other DIY tricks would you suggest from your experience? Sending out for ceracoating at my place is not budget friendly.