STEYR LG 110 Regulator advice

Jump to latest Follow Reply
Xbowsniper

Xbowsniper

Member
Nov 19, 2017
1,238
133
New York, United States
Nation, 

At long last I have finally acquired a Steyr regulator tester. The results of my regulator test were not surprising, in fact, they confirmed my suspicions. 

I bolted the regulator on the tester, and pressurized it with the air cylinder. 

It immediately went to 85 BAR (which is the proper setting for a 12 ft lb Field Target rig).

It crept gradually, and recorded the following results:

16 seconds to 90 BAR

1:05 to 95 BAR

2:15 to 100 BAR

5:40 to 105 BAR

10:00 to 110 BAR

14:30 to 115 BAR

20:30 to 120 BAR

26:00 to 125 BAR

35:00 to 130 BAR

So, as you can see, it's creeping. I probably didn't have to go further than 14 minutes or so, one wouldn't wait that long between lanes, but I just wanted to illustrate. 

I have all the o rings and seals needed to rebuild it with, and I have some of the finest polishing compounds known to man.

My questions, before I get starting rebuilding it, what should I do in rebuilding it, or more importantly what should I NOT do!!

I've had them apart for cleaning, so I have familiarity with the parts involved that are inside of it.

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated, there's not a lot to them, so I'm pretty sure that I can get it up and running with a little bit of guidance.

Thanks 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 

Mod Edit: Moved to PCP Airguns forum
 
It IS NOT the primary o-rings or the bevel washers ..... IT IS THE SEAT ITSELF than is at the root of the creeping issues.

Now this can be 2 fold ... When you unscrew the small 2 hole cup that is the depressor of the Tanks safety valve, you will find the adjustable seat under it..

When it is unscrewed you will find a very small o-ring around it ( this if leaking will act same as a seat leak ) Clean well & replace it along with other o-rings in the reg.



Test again & if finding set point won't hold ? .... another choice, remove and replace this little white delrin seat in the end of spool, entire spool if available or the whole regulator.

* The seat very likely IS NOT a part you can purchase, so if lathe equipped and careful you can remove it and make a replacement. jewelers work small part tho !!

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.



Scott S
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

I do have a lathe, just got done calibrating it to less than 1/2 of .0001.

I'll try and see what the seat looks like, this particular regulator I haven't had apart yet.

I'll see what it looks like inside, I wanted to avoid taking the screw out that depresses the safety valve on the cylinder, so if I find something amiss when I separate the halves, and inspect the washers and all, I'll go with that, and see what happens. If it still does it, then I'll delve into the rest of it a little deeper. 

Thanks, I'll keep you updated 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

I do have a lathe, just got done calibrating it to less than 1/2 of .0001.

I'll try and see what the seat looks like, this particular regulator I haven't had apart yet.

I'll see what it looks like inside, I wanted to avoid taking the screw out that depresses the safety valve on the cylinder, so if I find something amiss when I separate the halves, and inspect the washers and all, I'll go with that, and see what happens. If it still does it, then I'll delve into the rest of it a little deeper. 

Thanks, I'll keep you updated 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech
Click to expand...


Understanding how a regulator works, the parts and pieces function ... do it right the first time and cover the bases or waste a whole lot of time fiddle f'ing around.



Good luck,

Scott
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

Gotcha, I just figured that if I found something obvious (crap, and dirt and stuff), when I took the 2 halves apart, I might not need to go any further, but you're right, might as well do all of it.

I do agree, do it once, and be done with it, though.

One question, if I do a complete overhaul, and I must remove the 2 hole cup, is the 2 hole cup the output pressure adjuster, or is there an adjustment screw under it? That's the half I've never had apart, but I will go into it anyway. 

Thanks again, I'm going to tackle this sometime Thursday night. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
As stated a few posts up ... The 2 hole cup is JUST there to open the tubes check valve. Once out you will see a small screw driver slot that is the top of the seat height adjuster.

With calipers MEASURE how far down in the hole it is sitting and write this number down. Now unscrew it CCW and remove it. This is where you will find the very small o-ring that can allow bypass air going around the seat. If this o-ring does not have integrity your pretty much screwed.
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

Gotcha........

As I said, I have multiples of all the o rings involved, even the microscopic ones. I'll let you know what I find, ( if anything), and let you know how I make out. I have a pair of excellent calipers, so I can get a good accurate reading on that screws depth. In relation to that, I'm also going to note the direction of the slotted screw in relation to something in the housing, so when I reinstall it, it will be exactly where it is now.

Thanks again, I'll let you know how I made out.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Scott, 

I was a little bit late for your last post of advice, I only seen this post after I had it apart, and back together again.

As I delved into it, the amount of crap, crud, and obvious moisture of somekind......grease or oil?????? 

Was a little perplexed at that, because I get my air from the same place, breathable quality air from a scuba shop. The only thing that I can attribute it to, is maybe filling up once or twice at a 2 day Grand Prix that I didn't have my tank with me.

Anyhoo, I actually did what you suggested......the seat was ok, just dirty, but the face of the piston that the washers are stacked on was a little questionable. I polished it with some 27,000 grit polishing compound, and made it like a mirror.

Replaced all o rings, and thoroughly cleaned everything, and reassembled all. Put it on the tester, and it went right up to about 110 BAR, and stayed there. Bumped the test valve, and it returned to 110 BAR, and remained there for 1/2 an hour. I only need to adjust the pressure back down to 85, and I should be in good shape.

Any more input, or advice is greatly appreciated, thanks a zillion for your help so far.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

I went to adjust it, and couldn't get it down to 85 BAR. When I did, the air leaked out from between the 2 halves of the body. This tells me that the small o ring on the piston is leaking. I pulled the halves apart, and took the adjusting screw, and the screw with the 2 holes out completely, I got more crap out of the housing. I have it soaking in alcohol now....

Any suggestions? When I tried adjusting it before it leaked, it went either to 140+ BAR, or zero. No fine adjustment could be made. The washers are in 100% the proper way.

Things that make you go hmmmmm.

Any other guidance will be greatly appreciated. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Tvanpool,

The Belleville stack looks like the first stack, like you said. It looks like ()()()(). There are no shims at all. This is also the stock regulator that originally came with the gun. The air hissing issue has been resolved, it was an oring problem between the tester and the reg.

Baffling, to say the least.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Ok,

I tried adjusting the regulator to no avail, and, when the tester is read, it creeps up again. Seems as if I cannot adjust it, no matter what I do. I have 2 Steyr LG 110 FT rebuilding kits coming, along with 4 complete regulator rebuild kits. Seems that the kits that I have, did not have the same or right orings within the kit.

So, I guess that I just have to wait.......

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

I'm pretty sure it's an o ring problem. This regulator was the original 12 ft lb. regulator that came with the gun. The spare that I bought a few years ago is in the Steyr as we speak, that one failed as well. I can set it, (it's a really sensitive adjustment) and it slowly creeps back up again, albeit much slower than before. I got a bunch of pictures and guidance from Harold Rushton, and he agreed that I need the right o rings. I should have them in a week or so. 

How'd you do at the Oregon Grand Prix? Hope you had fun.

Thanks again, 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
Scott,

I'm pretty sure it's an o ring problem. This regulator was the original 12 ft lb. regulator that came with the gun. The spare that I bought a few years ago is in the Steyr as we speak, that one failed as well. I can set it, (it's a really sensitive adjustment) and it slowly creeps back up again, albeit much slower than before. I got a bunch of pictures and guidance from Harold Rushton, and he agreed that I need the right o rings. I should have them in a week or so. 

How'd you do at the Oregon Grand Prix? Hope you had fun.

Thanks again, 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech
Click to expand...


Fridays PISTOL match took a 1st place in Hunter tying high score with Limited 39/42 so we both get 100% GP points

Hunter PCP shot over 2 days managed a 2nd place finish 89/104 ( match high score 94/104 )

Basic break barrel also a 2nd place 30/42 shot on the pistol course.



Great weekend !!



Scott S
 
Upvote 0
Nation, 

FINALLY got around to rebuild my Steyr regulator. It's amazing how easy it is to actually rebuild and overhaul the innards of this particular system. LOT of small parts and especially o rings of the microscopic realm.

Took it apart, cleaned everything in it with alcohol and small brush. Got everything totally clean. Took the Piston, and polished it with some 4900 grit polishing compound, and made a mirror out of it. Did the same to the housing inside, where the Piston rests. Cleaned all the polishing compound off, and reassembled the whole mess. Replaced all the o rings, and plopped it all back together.

Bolted it to the regulator tester, and pressurized it. Took a few times to adjust, wasn't too sensitive. Pretty easy to adjust, it just took a few times. Set to 85 BAR, where it still stays.

The next one that I rebuild, I'll put on camera, so it'll be easier for the next guy. Really nothing to it. 

Special shout out and HUGE THANKS to Scott S for steering me in the right direction, without him, it wouldn't have been this easy.

Thanks again, Scott, 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu