HW/Weihrauch Stippling a 97K factory stock..

[bustachip]

Thinking of doing it to mine to get a different look from the same ol'. Has anybody done this to their HW stock? I tried a few patterns in some maple with 4 different cutting bits to get a idea of what it would look like. I think I like #2 the best

I know some don't like the stippling and that's to be expected. I just want to change the look of the factory stock to something different. What do you guys think?

 

[A.G.R]

Beautiful job getting that beach clean.. I beg you please do not cover that Checkering with stipple.
it may be stamped but it’s much better looking and will hold value. Not to mention you will need to get rid of it to stipple it .. then it’s gouged below the field.
just a opinion.

 

[fishing43]

1 or 2 is my preference. Any of the others are good also. Sorry I’m no help .

 

[Lewis]

Doing a quality stippling or chequering job is labor intensive and requires years of practice to become skilled at.
If you want to practice and have something only for yourself, then by all means, make it your own. I have guns that I love, but I am fully aware that my personalization is not done to everyone's taste.

One of the toughest parts of stippling is getting clean edges. I suggest you practice as you have been on scrap pieces until you have a process you are comfortable with and results you like. It will be much more difficult on the sculpted stock than on flat lumber.

Don't take this as nay-saying, just a few words to proceed with caution.

Whatever direction you go with, please share your progress and results with us.

As AGR already said, EXCELLENT JOB! stripping it. Beech can be difficult to strip and VERY difficult to stain evenly.

Well Done!

 

[bustachip]

Beautiful job getting that beach clean.. I beg you please do not cover that Checkering with stipple.
it may be stamped but it’s much better looking and will hold value. Not to mention you will need to get rid of it to stipple it .. then it’s gouged below the field.
just a opinion.

I agree somewhat. resale doesn't matter to me, what matters is how the dye will cover it and how it will look when finished. I talked myself into and out of this a couple of time now, still undecided. That's why I posted this to get opinions.

 

[r1lover]

I've got to agree with A.G.R. I think that is the most desirable checkering pattern HW has put on a 97 stock. And it looks likes a dedicated right hand stock? SWEET! Refinish it first and see how you like it. If you're still bored with it THEN change the checkering. Or better, add an adjustable butt pad if you want "different". It will make the gun shoulder better and give it a custom look. Search r1lover and Bisley for a tutorial I posted on installing a pad or ask me and I'll find it and post the link. You can install an adjustable butt pad with less effort than you'll spend stippling that stock.

If you advertised that stock just like it is in the classifieds I'd buy it, but not if it were stippled in any of the manners you asked about.

 

[bustachip]

Doing a quality stippling or chequering job is labor intensive and requires years of practice to become skilled at.
If you want to practice and have something only for yourself, then by all means, make it your own. I have guns that I love, but I am fully aware that my personalization is not done to everyone's taste.

One of the toughest parts of stippling is getting clean edges. I suggest you practice as you have been on scrap pieces until you have a process you are comfortable with and results you like. It will be much more difficult on the sculpted stock than on flat lumber.

Don't take this as nay-saying, just a few words to proceed with caution.

Whatever direction you go with, please share your progress and results with us.

As AGR already said, EXCELLENT JOB! stripping it. Beech can be difficult to strip and VERY difficult to stain evenly.

Well Done!

Thanks for the advice. I have no doubt I could do a good job, I'm just not sure about how it will look when dyed and finished. Plus I would have to work with what's already on the stock pattern wise. But as far as doing it, I feel confident.

 

[bustachip]

I've got to agree with A.G.R. I think that is the most desirable checkering pattern HW has put on a 97 stock. And it looks likes a dedicated right hand stock? SWEET! Refinish it first and see how you like it. If you're still bored with it THEN change the checkering. Or better, add an adjustable butt pad if you want "different". It will make the gun shoulder better and give it a custom look. Search r1lover and Bisley for a tutorial I posted on installing a pad or ask me and I'll find it and post the link. You can install an adjustable butt pad with less effort than you'll spend stippling that stock.

If you advertised that stock just like it is in the classifieds I'd buy it, but not if it were stippled in any of the manners you asked about.

That's a good idea, I should just finish it first and see what I think. I already spent time going around all the checkering borders and making them a little wider and deeper. The stock is finished to 400 grit right now, and I'm just waiting on the dye to come in the mail. I also wanted to make screw cups for it, and I haven't pulled the trigger on that either...lol.

 

[A.G.R]

That's a good idea, I should just finish it first and see what I think. I already spent time going around all the checkering borders and making them a little wider and deeper. The stock is finished to 400 grit right now, and I'm just waiting on the dye to come in the mail. I also wanted to make screw cups for it, and I haven't pulled the trigger on that either...lol.

To stipple it you will need a finer bit and the Checkering gone. Then the stipple wil be lower than the lowest point. You will end up having to sand the edges down .. prior to dye. It is a do it now or it’s gonna be real gouged to get rid of the Checkering. You CANT stipple over the points. So if it’s in the raw ,it’s the time to fit cups too

 

[bustachip]

To stipple it you will need a finer bit and the Checkering gone. Then the stipple wil be lower than the lowest point. You will end up having to sand the edges down .. prior to dye. It is a do it now or it’s gonna be real gouged to get rid of the Checkering. You CANT stipple over the points. So if it’s in the raw ,it’s the time to fit cups too

Yeah I think I'll scrap the stipple and just decide if I'm going to put cups in it before I dye it.

 

[Vana2]

I make/refinish my own gunstocks and will often stipple them with a homemade tool. Wrote up a guest blog for Pyramyd Air on that if you are curious about how I do that...

DIY Rifle Stock – Part 5 | Blog | Pyramyd AIR

by Tom Gaylord Writing as B.B. Pelletier Today's report is Part 5 of reader Vana’s excellent report on stock making. This one was delayed because of the SHOT Show, followed by my need to catch up on reports followed by my forgetting I had it — and Part 6 that’s still to come. If you'd

www.pyramydair.com

Cheers!

 

[bustachip]

I make/refinish my own gunstocks and will often stipple them with a homemade tool. Wrote up a guest blog for Pyramyd Air on that if you are curious about how I do that...

DIY Rifle Stock – Part 5 | Blog | Pyramyd AIR

by Tom Gaylord Writing as B.B. Pelletier Today's report is Part 5 of reader Vana’s excellent report on stock making. This one was delayed because of the SHOT Show, followed by my need to catch up on reports followed by my forgetting I had it — and Part 6 that’s still to come. If you'd

www.pyramydair.com

View attachment 512348

Cheers!

Nice! Thanks for the info.

 

[bustachip]

I make/refinish my own gunstocks and will often stipple them with a homemade tool. Wrote up a guest blog for Pyramyd Air on that if you are curious about how I do that...

DIY Rifle Stock – Part 5 | Blog | Pyramyd AIR

by Tom Gaylord Writing as B.B. Pelletier Today's report is Part 5 of reader Vana’s excellent report on stock making. This one was delayed because of the SHOT Show, followed by my need to catch up on reports followed by my forgetting I had it — and Part 6 that’s still to come. If you'd

www.pyramydair.com

View attachment 512348

Cheers!

Excellent blog.

 

[Bedrock Bob]

I've never tried to put a pattern over/below checkering on a rifle stock. Nor with a router. But the striking tools above work great, require very little skill or special tools and produce super nice edges. If I were to put a pattern on a gunstock that's what I would use.

There are lots of lasers out there that do a heck of a job. Easy to set up and fast.

A friend did his stock with fractal patterns using electrodes and a converted microwave. It looks just awesome. He did the boundary with a checkering tool and the field with Lictenburg patterns. Just a thought. It's very unique, looks fantastic and took about 10 minutes. You could use it within the factory boundaries and change very little from the original design.

I like dyed checkering. The factory stuff looks great the way it is with some color contrast. Dye or antiquing wax will really make checkered panels pop with very little effort....

 

[Bear-of-Grayling]

With a checkering “clean up” tool, you could deepen and make the current stamped checkering feel and look like hand checkering. Fairly easy using the old as a guide. Borrowed picture.

 

[KWK]

With a checkering “clean up” tool, you could deepen and make the current stamped checkering feel and look like hand checkering. Fairly easy using the old as a guide. Borrowed picture.View attachment 512370

Make your own cleanup tool by heating the end of needle file red hot and bending the tip to make it curved. Works very well. Doesn't seem to affect the hardness of the hard chrome teeth.

 

[Croxton63]

How did you get the stock so clean?

 

[A.G.R]

With a checkering “clean up” tool, you could deepen and make the current stamped checkering feel and look like hand checkering. Fairly easy using the old as a guide. Borrowed picture.View attachment 512370

the issue with that is their checkering is pressed in or laser cut and opposite of hand cut with tools
it’s not so easy to recut and isn’t just deepening it. it can be done but actual 60 and 90 degree cutters are needed

you have to actually recut the diamonds and sharpen them from the top down.

 

[bustachip]

How did you get the stock so clean?

Citrus strip over night, then scraped all the goo off best I could, then let it dry over night. Next day went over with 120 grit twice, that took the majority of the stain off. Then went over with 220 and finally 400 grit. I used good 3M paper.

 

[Hateful McNasty]

Citrus strip over night, then scraped all the goo off best I could, then let it dry over night. Next day went over with 120 grit twice, that took the majority of the stain off. Then went over with 220 and finally 400 grit. I used good 3M paper.

I was wondering sandblasted ..