Strange results using Pelletgage

I've just received Pelletgage in 5.5 few days ago.

Since I have some JSB Exact 15.89 pellets in 5.50, 5.51 and 5.52 I wanted to push them through Pelletgage just to see what exactly is in those few tins of pellets because I wanted to test different subcalibres and how barrel on HW100 would like them. 5.50 and 5.51 are my old stash, bought them probably 3 years ago, 5.52 are brand new.
Started with 5.50 (at least that what's printed on the sticker on the bottom of the tin) and got mostly 5.55! After some 20 pcs started checking if I'm reading the Pelletgage right but that is almost impossible to get wrong. Took some from the 5.52 tin and most really are 5.52. Tried some from 5.51 tin and those are actually 5.53!

Just for sanity check tried some other pellets that I have and most are what it says on the tin, or thereabout but it proves that everything's fine with the Pelletgage. I didn't doubt that in the first place but strange readings threw me of at start.

At least, these 5.50 are very, very consistent. From a small 250 PCS tin, I got 8 in 5.54 and 2 in 5.56, all other are 5.55

What's wrong with these pellets, I have no idea, AFAIK JSB doesn't even produce Exact's in 5.55, at least not on purpose :) 
It was probably just a bad batch, old worn out die, some sort of a glitch in a production line but it just proves that for consistent and repeatable accuracy we have to check and double check everything.

If I would have tested these pellets without checking them first and found out that the barrel on HW100 really likes 5.50 I would probably order 5+ tins (500 PCS ones)
New pellets, presumably really in 5.50 would not shoot so great because there is quite a difference between 5.50 and 5.55. It all depends how pellet fussy the barrel is but difference could be obvious even on shorter ranges.

This is not a rant or anything, just wanted to share my experience in using one more tool that we have on our disposal.
This thing could be a clue for that "one magic tin" of pellets that outperformed any other a person ever shot. Maybe, maybe not, just too many variables :)

Happy shooting... sizing, lubing, weighing, tuning... :) :) :)






 
Trust the gauge. Pellets nowadays are rarely what the tin says. Just sort them via the gauge into different tins keeping track of actual head size. I haven't found a tin from any manufacturer lately that are as labelled on tin and many are no longer labelled. For what it's worth, match flat head 177 pellets are mostly spot on the labelled size. They can do it, but in the rush to get pellets to market, weight and head size are rarely as stated.
 
I got the .22 pelletgage also two weeks ago, and really confusing numbers. At this moment I don't know what is wrong...the gage or the temperature or the two size of pellets I tried to sort.

The both tins shoving 5.5 (single decimal place) and both the AA FT 16gr and the JSB Jumbo Monster Redesign 25.39gr are working with either 5.54 or 5.55 holes.

I checked the pelletgage hole edges with a high power jewellery lupe, seeing some minor burr from the laser cut and the hole is not 100% round.

But anyway, the pellets are pretty much consistent between the two numbers +0.04 and +0.05 mm. I just didn't expect to be in plus tolerance.

Same with .25 JSB MK1 and MK2 's.
 
If you are into precision shooting, like benchrest, then a pelletgage is almost a must. You can't trust what's marked on pellet tins. Weight and dimensions vary and sometimes considerably. Here's a test I ran a while ago on some .177 pellets in my TM1000. As you can see, the inspected and segregated pellets shot better than the the rejects and the ones straight from the tin. Big deal you say? This could make the difference between a 9 and a 10 on your target. Winning or losing a match.

Pellet inspection test.1654273848.jpg

 
Without a gage, I can tell how pellet quality has suffered.. just slipping the pellet into the breech shows tight to loose, some almost fall in while others need a good push!! Been that way for years and not gonna get any better unless we are willing to shell out big bucks for sorted pellets. I have used what would be premium pellets for decades and never found really good consistancy from any!! As a precision toolmaker for over 50 years, I can tell you that "Lazer" accuracy means nothing, just a fancy term to make folks think super accurate....mechanical sizing tools still create the most accurate hole size !!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty911
Here in the US we use pin gages to check for size and roundness. Much easier to make an extremely precise pin dia to check holes. Worked with lazer and cnc machines for the past 10 years before retiring, when it comes to a precision size and true diameter hole the lazer would be my last choice. Ultra precise holes are reamed/ ground/ or lapped for perfection. Lazer holes are more accurate than most folks can measure, unless your a precision toolmaker, then precise holes are a way of life. I do hope your gage is precise, but if lazered.....not gonna be real precise!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Smitty911
I do plan to check the gage also, for the burrs and shape of the hole, at the moment I don't have anything to measure the dimensions that accurately. Hope it checks out because for 80€ that I had to pay for it here in EU, it better be perfect.

If you have a precision machine shop in your area, they can check your gage holes, should only take a few minutes if they have the proper tools on hand. When I was working, we often did little small jobs for the public just to be neighborly and keep on good terms in our area. 
 
Agree.

I cannot use this pellet gage "calibrated numbers" only as a go-nogo. I measured with a digital caliper and the hole in my interest is - not as engraved.digia
Checking a Pelletgage aperture with a set of calipers that is only accurate to 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) - not even considering the difficulty of getting your jaws to properly check the inside diameter - is not a valid method. If you want to confirm the aperture with accuracy, use a set of metric plug gages as from Meyer or Deltronic. I check every lot of gage plates with my five sets of Class X pin gages. https://deltronic.com/class-x-pin-gages/
Without a gage, I can tell how pellet quality has suffered.. just slipping the pellet into the breech shows tight to loose, some almost fall in while others need a good push!! Been that way for years and not gonna get any better unless we are willing to shell out big bucks for sorted pellets. I have used what would be premium pellets for decades and never found really good consistancy from any!! As a precision toolmaker for over 50 years, I can tell you that "Lazer" accuracy means nothing, just a fancy term to make folks think super accurate....mechanical sizing tools still create the most accurate hole size !!!
Without a gage, I can tell how pellet quality has suffered.. just slipping the pellet into the breech shows tight to loose, some almost fall in while others need a good push!! Been that way for years and not gonna get any better unless we are willing to shell out big bucks for sorted pellets. I have used what would be premium pellets for decades and never found really good consistancy from any!! As a precision toolmaker for over 50 years, I can tell you that "Lazer" accuracy means nothing, just a fancy term to make folks think super accurate....mechanical sizing tools still create the most accurate hole size !!!
Pelletgage apertures are cut with a very specialized diode pumped fiber optic laser based bedded machine, with a focused beam, using oxygen cooling gas. This is totally different than the type of laser used for sheet metal fabrication (Amada and such). It can cut apertures as small as 18 microns in diameter (0.0007 inches). No typical machine shop tooling can match this cutting precision. My source for the gage plates is better at this than competitors (I used many of them in my career in microelectronics). I guarantee, if the Pelletgage has not been abused, every aperture is within 0.0025 mm (0.0001 in) of the nominal engraved diameter on the gage plate. Every incoming lot is checked by me with Class X plug gages.
At an airgun show, I once had someone come to my table, telling me he was a sheet metal expert, and was familiar with laser-based metrology, and my precision claim was impossible. I pulled out my set of pin gages, and let him check. He apologized in front of several observers said goodbye.
Most pin gage sets are in 0.001 inch increments. Mine are in 0.0025 mm, one tenth the step size.
 
I do plan to check the gage also, for the burrs and shape of the hole, at the moment I don't have anything to measure the dimensions that accurately. Hope it checks out because for 80€ that I had to pay for it here in EU, it better be perfect.
You will need a set of metric class X pin gages to make the necessary confirmation. Thousands of Pelletgages have been sold worldwide, and I stand behind them.
 
I've just received Pelletgage in 5.5 few days ago.

Since I have some JSB Exact 15.89 pellets in 5.50, 5.51 and 5.52 I wanted to push them through Pelletgage just to see what exactly is in those few tins of pellets because I wanted to test different subcalibres and how barrel on HW100 would like them. 5.50 and 5.51 are my old stash, bought them probably 3 years ago, 5.52 are brand new.
Started with 5.50 (at least that what's printed on the sticker on the bottom of the tin) and got mostly 5.55! After some 20 pcs started checking if I'm reading the Pelletgage right but that is almost impossible to get wrong. Took some from the 5.52 tin and most really are 5.52. Tried some from 5.51 tin and those are actually 5.53!

Just for sanity check tried some other pellets that I have and most are what it says on the tin, or thereabout but it proves that everything's fine with the Pelletgage. I didn't doubt that in the first place but strange readings threw me of at start.

At least, these 5.50 are very, very consistent. From a small 250 PCS tin, I got 8 in 5.54 and 2 in 5.56, all other are 5.55

What's wrong with these pellets, I have no idea, AFAIK JSB doesn't even produce Exact's in 5.55, at least not on purpose :)
It was probably just a bad batch, old worn out die, some sort of a glitch in a production line but it just proves that for consistent and repeatable accuracy we have to check and double check everything.

If I would have tested these pellets without checking them first and found out that the barrel on HW100 really likes 5.50 I would probably order 5+ tins (500 PCS ones)
New pellets, presumably really in 5.50 would not shoot so great because there is quite a difference between 5.50 and 5.55. It all depends how pellet fussy the barrel is but difference could be obvious even on shorter ranges.

This is not a rant or anything, just wanted to share my experience in using one more tool that we have on our disposal.
This thing could be a clue for that "one magic tin" of pellets that outperformed any other a person ever shot. Maybe, maybe not, just too many variables :)

Happy shooting... sizing, lubing, weighing, tuning... :) :) :)
I have had several customers tell me recently that their latest tins of nominal 5.52 pellets were ALL larger than the largest aperture in the .22 cal Pelletgage which is (or was) 5.57 mm. My latest lot of new gage plates were produced with apertures from 5.49 to 5.58 mm, and I believe recent Czech made 5.5 pellets are pretty large. I take your point, you cannot be sure that the nominal head size is true. One customer told me that the 5.57+ pellets shot just fine in his FX rifle. It may be true that within some range, consistent pellets will shoot consistently. I have long thought that most rifled barrels will have some minimum or maximum head size, and so long as the pellet is within the accommodation of the lands and grooves of the barrel (and considering the possible effect of a choke), pellet head size is not critical. If you exceed the max or go below the minimum, "fliers" are the result.
The accomplished shooters I know well tell me that if they sort pellets by head size, there is a POI shift between groups, that is - the grouping of (say) 5.51 pellets is good, but slightly higher than the groups of 5.53 mm. If the pellets are mixed, the result is a larger grouping. Consistency is perhaps the overriding factor. All of this applies to high quality rifles in the hands of skilled shooters. Little to none does if you are shooting a big box $200 rifle with open sights.
 
Just un update after some test shooting
After gaging for head sizes and weighing different pellets and testing them on a range I've come to conclusion that my barrel preferes 5.53.
5.54 is not bad either just a slight difference which could always be me.
5.52 and smaller and 5.55 and bigger do shoot worse than 5.53 and 5.54

All in all, I'm satisfied that can see the difference and gives me ability to sort pellets in two piles for target shooting and the rest for plinking

Now I need a pelletgage for 4.5mm since I'm buying a new FT rig...
Huh, this rabbit hole goes really deep...
 
I for one am ecstatic when I find tins that have large head sizes!! Every rifle I have owned over the past years has prefered the larger head size and in the past I have found as the rest of you that they may as well not put the size on the tin as thats not what is in it!! I once bought 20,000 JSB 10.34 pellets from 6 different vendors (back when you could) trying to find a good lot of 4,52. sized them all and ended up with less than 400 with most being 4.50 or 4.49 and a few being 4.51 At least with them being oversized you could, if you wish use a sizer to make them all the same and to your liking, then at least your POI will be the same!! It is very frustrating for sure but at least we have the "Pelletgage" to be able to know WHAT we actually have!! Thank you Jerry !! J.L.
 
  • Like
Reactions: beerthief
I got really tired seizing pellets and got to a point to invest or make a pellet head sizer. Have not found any yet.
Project for a next winter.