Any advice on a way I can get those little buggers outta there? I'm referring to the impact allen screws under the rail on the long flat plate. I have about 3 stripped heads from someone not knowing what they were doing obviously.
Stripped Allen screws !? [FIXED!!] Thanks fellas
- Thread starter Redick
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Ouch! That could be a fuzzy one. Not a easy thing to do but if you could obtain the right size "easy out" for them it might not be so hard. Be careful if you have to use any heat. Hope you can get them out.
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Something I've done in a pinch is use a torx bit that is one size larger than the allen head and tap it into place. It will usually remove one but anytime one picks up a hammer for such it is probably less than ideal.
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I had the hex screws in the breech (index pin plate) of a Daystate Redwolf strip! Reading about this online it seems like they either overtighten these bolts or use locktite as it is a known issue. I was getting ready to send her in for repair but someone on this site suggested I try using the Werkzeug Damaged Stripped Screw Extractor Set from amazon. I was weary cause I did not want to damage anything and am not too "handy" with tools. But I took my time and used a very slow drill bit and the smallest drill bit/extractor and then worked my way up. after about 20 minutes the bolt broke loose. Not sure if this applies to "iimpact head screws" but thought I'd chime in. Good luck,
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Go to your local Harbor Freight and purchase a set of "Left Handed Drills" (they are cheap) start small and SLOWLY drill the set screw in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE direction. Most screws will back themselves out once the bit starts to break through the bottom of the screw.
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I was thinking I can use a small chisel and hammer and work it out, but I'll try you guys method first.
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I once removed a stripped hex screw by cleaning and degreasing the screw cavity and hex key, then placed a dab of JB Weld onto the wrench, supported the setup vertically with a clothespin until the epoxy cured. Luckily I was able to remove the screw the following day. YMMV I now keep a set of micro screw extractors onhand. This type has the tapered drill bit on one end which corresponds with matching extractor on the opposite end. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q60UOO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Use a easy ou AKA screw extractort. Or you may be able to use a small center punch tapping until loose. With the punch method you have to be sure you dont mar the gun.
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Yep, I had both of these strip. I used the same stripped screw extractor, worked on one, not on the other. The extractor drill broke in the hole, making it virtually impossible to drill out the screw head with a hand drill. I sent it back to AOA, and Steve removed it and replaced the screws. I asked him to only finger tighten them. It's like lug nuts, the folks in assembly just don't pay attention, and often put them in way too tight. In fact, one of those screws in my rifle was partially stripped from over tightening, the hex tool was a sloppy fit, allowing virtually no pressure to be applied in trying to remove it. These are 2mm hex heads, and are under very little pressure, don't over tighten them! They need only to be seated under finger tight pressure. Not only are these very small hex heads, but the metal is soft, and the hex hole is often imperfect, all of which means, apply very little pressure.
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Heat the screw and the area around it.. Let it sit reapply heat.. Use the next closets size up SAE hex wrench. Drive it in with a hammer.. Keep beating on the wrench while you put tension on the screw... This may take two people... Make sure the hex wench has a perfectly square end and not worn.. If it is worn, grind it and make the end like new.. Does this make sense?
Don't use cheap hex wrenches.. buy quality tools.
Another option: You might be able to drill out the head of the screw and get the "plate off" thus taking pressure off the screw.. Hard to say without looking at what you have..
Don't use cheap hex wrenches.. buy quality tools.
Another option: You might be able to drill out the head of the screw and get the "plate off" thus taking pressure off the screw.. Hard to say without looking at what you have..
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I have taped one a bit larger into to hole. You will need a standard and metric Allen wrench set to find a size that will be a bit larger . Epoxy or JB weld the slightly larger Allen when you tap it into the striped hole let it dry overnight. Carefully try to remove the screw the next day.
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Jam the allen wrench into a grinding wheel until you raise a big burr on it. Then tap it into the socket with a light hammer. The tapping might also move the thread metal just enough to loosen it some as well. I hope you hear that satisfying CRACK when the screw breaks loose! Easier to put the burr on the long end of the allen and then use a crescent wrench on the short end. Less chance of further damage to the socket.
Grinding or lapping compound on the hex bit is sometimes helpful if you find one that feels iffy. Before you strip it.
When you're finished put your allen wrenches up where you have trouble reaching them. Put 1/4 inch hex bits and a magnetic hex screwdriver within easy reach. A socket adapter is a good idea as well. L shaped allen wrenches are a recipe for disaster. They're springy, they twist. and they ruin the socket.
Roddick extractors are pretty good when dealing with stuff like this.
Heaven forbid you have to drill it. Mechanics often use left hand drill bits in the hopes it will grab and back the screw out.
If you want to heat the screw a 240 watt soldering gun works great if you can touch the head with it.and hold it there a minute.
I can't remember a screw or bolt I couldn't get out..
Roddick extractors
Grinding or lapping compound on the hex bit is sometimes helpful if you find one that feels iffy. Before you strip it.
When you're finished put your allen wrenches up where you have trouble reaching them. Put 1/4 inch hex bits and a magnetic hex screwdriver within easy reach. A socket adapter is a good idea as well. L shaped allen wrenches are a recipe for disaster. They're springy, they twist. and they ruin the socket.
Roddick extractors are pretty good when dealing with stuff like this.
Heaven forbid you have to drill it. Mechanics often use left hand drill bits in the hopes it will grab and back the screw out.
If you want to heat the screw a 240 watt soldering gun works great if you can touch the head with it.and hold it there a minute.
I can't remember a screw or bolt I couldn't get out..
Roddick extractors
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The screws attaching the magazine actuator pin on the Red Wolf is a 2 mm hex head. Most extractor kits do not go nearly that small. And the few that do are necessarily fragile too, so they are easy to break off before loosening the screw. Mine worked on one, then broke off in the second one, leaving a screw head that was about impossible to drill without the aid of good press or mill and a way to precisely hold the action. If faced with the same problem again on such a small screw, I believe I would just drill the head off before taking a chance on filling my starter hole with a broken extractor bit. If the screw doesn't loosen in the process, the head should come off after the drilled hole exceeds the size of screw shaft. I am hesitant to do much hammering on the action of an electronic rifle. Otherwise, hammering in a larger size hex or torx head, as mentioned above, would probably work.
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I have some like these except mine are snap on and all I've had to do is tap it into the stripped head and turn making sure to put the torque perfectly 90 degrees to the easy out. I've been using them since 1973 with no problems.
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Yup, your right, It was borderline foolish for me to try to take them out. But I worked slowly and got advice from this forum (one recommended the mini screw extraction kit I used) and even some help the Daystate Forum (from Simon) who indicated that emptying the cylinder of all the air to "remove the stress/pressure on the core valve allowing easier removal of the top plate". I have no idea what that meant but figured it could not hurt. When the bolt started turning I was happy.
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Gotta say, your advice from Simon makes no sense to me. Air pressure has nothing at all to do with that top plate.
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