Tuning STUCK halfway thru' Seneca Aspen/Nova Freedom Pump Repair - PHOTOS
- Thread starter monsterpcp
- Start date
Does anyone know where I can get the small Piston Head 000p2-024-w-00. I snapped the little sucker off and I am getting no-where with Air Venturi. Android.
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Unless ATI still offers that part, you may have to try and make a bottle gun out of it. I don't have the links, but there *was* a guy (Duy Dinh or Dinh Duy?) on GTA who made the adapters to convert the Freedoms to bottle guns.
I had considered doing it, and might still, but the costs just made me go in another direction.
The onboard pump will ALWAYS be a problem. As nice as it was to be able to pump about 3 times for each shot (up to ~10 shots or ~30 pumps), the onboard pump simply will not hold up, even if you did the dual O-ring conversion early before the O-sleeve disintegrated and clogged up the rest of the valves in the gun.
So... My suggestion is to either look into the conversion or buy something else.
Yes, my .177 Freedoms were tack drivers and quiet after I added my DIY slip on suppressors.
I would sell you the part(s) you want, but you would not want to pay my price. (smile)
One of these days, I may take apart the 3 I own and need that part... (chuckle)
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I am still waiting on Air Venturi. I understand they are super busy. Is the DIY bottle switch reasonable?
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I never did the conversion, and I am not sure what you mean by "reasonable".
In essence, what you will end up with is a Liberty with a bottle... more or less.
I had to make my own DIY "slip-on" suppressors for the Freedoms (which worked very well) to make them quiet enough for my backyard pesting.
Is it reasonable in price? You will have to decide that for yourself. When the conversion was first offered by Duy Dinh, I think it was relatively reasonable, but I don't know what he charges now or if he even offers the conversion anymore.
Not deriding Duy Dinh. Just saying that I don't know at this point.
If you like the precision and sound level of your Freedom, then it *might* be worth the money, but for me so far, it wasn't worth the money even though the Freedoms were VERY accurate for me, at least the 2 .177 models I have. The .22 model never worked properly... longer story there. I actually sent the .22 back to ATI, traded it for another .177 and bought the .22 back for about $100 from ATI... thinking I could "fix" it. I couldn't.
If I had it to do over again, I would have bought the Liberty, but that isn't saying I would be in much better shape. (smile)
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By reasonable, I meant would it be worth it to put the bottle on. I would prefer to fix the existing rifle.
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Can you point me in the direction to get the existing rifle fixed I would highly appreciate it
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How much are you going to charge me for the small piston head 000P2-024-W-00, and one connecting rod washer 000P2-028-W-00? Thanks, Android
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Hope you are all well 
Was wondering if anyone vould confirm if all the oring sizes in the nova liberty assembly manual pdf shared in this thread, applies to the .25 caliber? The manual only lables the .177 & .22 caliber (M1000 & M900). I have compiled them into a lits with respective shore hardness.
I also contacted captaining.com as they make sets for avenger and some other pcp's, however their response was that they had tried in the past with some customers, based on the specs from same assembly manual, only to have reports back that they don't all fit
Was wondering if anyone vould confirm if all the oring sizes in the nova liberty assembly manual pdf shared in this thread, applies to the .25 caliber? The manual only lables the .177 & .22 caliber (M1000 & M900). I have compiled them into a lits with respective shore hardness.
I also contacted captaining.com as they make sets for avenger and some other pcp's, however their response was that they had tried in the past with some customers, based on the specs from same assembly manual, only to have reports back that they don't all fit
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Try calling Pyramid Air. They were very helpful for a problem I had with the pump in my Nova Freedom.Hope you are all well
Was wondering if anyone vould confirm if all the oring sizes in the nova liberty assembly manual pdf shared in this thread, applies to the .25 caliber? The manual only lables the .177 & .22 caliber (M1000 & M900). I have compiled them into a lits with respective shore hardness.
I also contacted captaining.com as they make sets for avenger and some other pcp's, however their response was that they had tried in the past with some customers, based on the specs from same assembly manual, only to have reports back that they don't all fit
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Guys can anyone tell me if they have ever had an issue where pumping up the gun for empty (bleeded the release screw) has air coming out the barrel after 3ach stroke. I can literally here the air releasing from the barrel. I just rebuilt the pump and replaced the seals in the air chamber. The only part I could no figure out how to remove was the "air release valve sleeve" as it is seated deep in the aluminum valve body. Any thought much appreciated.
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Please also find an updated 2020 version of the assembly manual which I acquired directly form Nova Vista. You will notice main changes are made to part numbers (includes .25 cal), small piston head and the pump check valve (now 2 brass parts). Also changes to the lubrication notes (includes graphite grease). Take note the old manual mainly had oring CS x OD, the new manual is mostly ID x CS. They seem to have replace many PU oring from the old guide with NBR shore 90.
View attachment P2 PNEUPUMP synthetic stock Assembly Instructions 11062020(1) (1).pdf
View attachment P2 PNEUPUMP synthetic stock Assembly Instructions 11062020(1) (1).pdf
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My gun was built in 2019 and had a combination of parts from both manuals. Mine had the newer "air chamber extension tube rear connector" but have the older "check valve copper sleve" for pump.
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If air is leaking out the barrel it most likely is the poppet valve. Seeings how it was made in 2019 it has the old style poppet which has some really soft material inside the metal can. The material wears down until the metal can starts resting on the brass exhaust valve and won't seal. As far as being able to get to the valve you need to remove the air tube which the pre charge pressure must be released from. There's a floating piston that separates the charge aka the air pressure you've pumped in from the precharge air pressure that was in the rifle when you received it. I would suggest if you're not really sure about what you're doing send it to PA and have them repair it with the updated valve which will last a lot longer than the original.
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Thanks for the details reply. I did manage to get the valve out and found that the original PU oring on one side of the valve had turned to a sticky mush. The other orin is nbr and no so bad. I have changed those orings and now all works perfect (holding charge at 2k psi so far. When looking at the poppet I did notice the rubber seal ring between the pin and can. Mine is still intact, but does have an indent mark of the opposing brass outlet. Do you think it would be possible to replace the rammer om the poppet? I don't live near the US so getting a valve from PA is virtually impossible.
On a related topic, do you know why there is a precharge (1800 psi I believe) in the air tube behind the internal piston? I do have the special fill probe from Duy but never fully understood what the pre charge preasure is for. I think I read somewhere it to help with the hand pumping at some point?
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