Suddenly some water out of pump at the end of charging cycle. Problem?

[Huncowboy]

Hi,

I have the Yong Heng. Had it for a year or longer. No issues so far until today.

The compressor was not used for a few months. I have filled my Uragan II twice today. First to around 250 bars. No issues. The pump ran a little long because the gun was completely empty. The pump did seam to crank up a tiny bit slower than what I've remembered. Just enough for me to take notice. Other than that everything normal.

Next, about an hour later, I filled from 200 to 300 bars. When I disconnected the probe from the gun suddenly a good bit of water dripped out. It also looked like it had some "white" substance in it. But after it evaporated it left no marks. It is very humid here right now and the pump is not under AC. But it was the same last year and I don't remember water coming out.

Also, now I am wondering all this water is in the gun, the tank, etc. Perhaps I need to send it in for service. The gun has a tiny small leak anyways. It will deplete after a month or two. I need to send it in regardless eventually.

I guess my questions is two fold. Does the gun need immediate attention? Do I need a new pump?

Thanks!

 

[WorriedMan]

What system do you have in place to address moisture control? WM

 

[bigHUN]

On a long run you will benefit investing into some decent size water/oil separator for your compressor.
I have a dual tower in my setup, the first stage is doing a heavy work I am releasing the water like every five minutes. The second stage will throw some minor vapour only if raining outside and the garage door is open to clear the smell.

For any airgun... exposed to moisture only a few times won't do big damage. But if you refill it consistently with a lot of moisture that can do harm on many internals. As you mentioned "last year" .... that is a long time and can do damage to the metal.

 

[Huncowboy]

What system do you have in place to address moisture control? WM

The only water filter I have is what came with the pump.

On a long run you will benefit investing into some decent size water/oil separator for your compressor.
I have a dual tower in my setup, the first stage is doing a heavy work I am releasing the water like every five minutes. The second stage will throw some minor vapour only if raining outside and the garage door is open to clear the smell.

View attachment 484551

For any airgun... exposed to moisture only a few times won't do big damage. But if you refill it consistently with a lot of moisture that can do harm on many internals. As you mentioned "last year" .... that is a long time and can do damage to the metal.

I think this was the first time I have seen noticeable amount of moisture. What are those filters you have? What make and model?

 

[Bill_D]

Those filters that come with that pump are "almost" useless - need to invest in at lest a larger filter but even better the double bigHUN has in the above picture - they are a bit expensive but so is screwing up a gun with moisture.
You said it seem to start a little slow - might should run it not hooked to anything and see if you have an internal water jacket leak - putting water into the airside of the cylinder.

 

[WorriedMan]

Low humidity environments and/or operating in air conditioning can aid with moisture control but even with that rarely does the cotton "tampon-style" in-line filter nor the Cyclonic water separator included on most Yong Heng models, suffice. Started with ($60) M50 molecular sieve gold filter in my humid Florida garage but black Yong Heng cotton filter got soaked so upgrade needed. Copper-colored water coalescing "filter" ($125 eBay) uses air flow, channels and dividers to force larger moisture and oil molecules to lower (vent) while pushing clean, dry air out the top. Bulk moisture removal by coalescing filter leaves molecular sieve for finishing touch moisture removal. So far three years of nothing but clean, dry air for the collection. WM

 

[Huncowboy]

Those filters that come with that pump are "almost" useless - need to invest in at lest a larger filter but even better the double bigHUN has in the above picture - they are a bit expensive but so is screwing up a gun with moisture.
You said it seem to start a little slow - might should run it not hooked to anything and see if you have an internal water jacket leak - putting water into the airside of the cylinder.

Running not hooked up I did not see a leak. But if that is the case I guess I need a new pump. Correct?

Low humidity environments and/or operating in air conditioning can aid with moisture control but even with that rarely does the cotton "tampon-style" in-line filter nor the Cyclonic water separator included on most Yong Heng models, suffice. Started with ($60) M50 molecular sieve gold filter in my humid Florida garage but black Yong Heng cotton filter got soaked so upgrade needed. Copper-colored water coalescing "filter" ($125 eBay) uses air flow, channels and dividers to force larger moisture and oil molecules to lower (vent) while pushing clean, dry air out the top. Bulk moisture removal by coalescing filter leaves molecular sieve for finishing touch moisture removal. So far three years of nothing but clean, dry air for the collection. WMView attachment 484635View attachment 484634

Thanks for the info! I will order one right now.

EDIT:
I ran the pump without connecting it to the rifle. No water is coming out of it. But it is also not under pressure of course.

When you guys turn your Yong Heng on, does it have like a second of spooling up? I really don't remember mine doing this. It takes a second of or so of spinning up to speed.

 

[WorriedMan]

Running not hooked up I did not see a leak. But if that is the case I guess I need a new pump. Correct?

Thanks for the info! I will order one right now.

EDIT:
I ran the pump without connecting it to the rifle. No water is coming out of it. But it is also not under pressure of course.

When you guys turn your Yong Heng on, does it have like a second of spooling up? I really don't remember mine doing this. It takes a second of or so of spinning up to speed.

Can't recall any difference in starting up, of course, always start and stop with pressure release valves open. I leave water coalescing filter vent and both YH pressure release valves open when compressor sits unused for draining/drying purposes. Also, keep items to be filled higher than setup since water tends to settle at lowest part. WM

 

[Huncowboy]

Can't recall any difference in starting up, of course, always start and stop with pressure release valves open. I leave water coalescing filter vent and both YH pressure release valves open when compressor sits unused for draining/drying purposes. Also, keep items to be filled higher than setup since water tends to settle at lowest part. WM

Ok. I do open everything before and after filling. But keeping the rifle higher is not something I have done. I just ordered a filter for like $70 from Chinazon. I also email Anthony at Talon Tunes if I need to service this rifle or not. Really neat rifle this U2 and I would hate to break it with something this stupid.

 

[JimD]

It might have been mentioned but I use color changing dessicant in my extra filter with my YH. It the beads have not changed color then I know the air is dry that went into my bottle. When it changes color, I change it. I also arrange the filters to be above the bottle (or gun) and vent the YH every five minutes of run time. Water usually comes out. More comes out when the air is humid. I use the stock YH filter first and it seems to catch some oil in the air and often water. But I want the extra filter too to be sure the air is dry.

My guns do not have bottles and it is not very hard to open up the airtubes. I have to do it to change the regulators in all but one of them. The are dry inside so I know my air filtration is working. If you have a bottle gun and you are unsure how to open up the bottle to check for moisture and/or drain it then you might need to send it in for that. The gun will naturally shoot out water with the air if it is present, however. It seems like it might also be reasonable to just drain it of air and refill it with air you know is dry. Emptying the gun of air will tend to remove any moisture too. Maybe not 100% but it should get any gross issue resolved. If you wanted to be more sure you could empty and refill it a couple times.

 

[WorriedMan]

Ok. I do open everything before and after filling. But keeping the rifle higher is not something I have done. I just ordered a filter for like $70 from Chinazon. I also email Anthony at Talon Tunes if I need to service this rifle or not. Really neat rifle this U2 and I would hate to break it with something this stupid.

Not sure if you got the molecular sieve or copper-colored water coalescing filter, if molecular sieve, keep watch since bulk moisture removal is not it's strength. Sounds like our moisture problems were similar, I couldn't make a go of it without adding the water coalescing filter. Before adding water coalescing filter, I used my cotton-filled YH black filter to test air going into molecular sieve, a soaked cotton insert meant upgrade to moisture removal system required. WM

 

[Huncowboy]

Not sure if you got the molecular sieve or copper-colored water coalescing filter, if molecular sieve, keep watch since bulk moisture removal is not it's strength. Sounds like our moisture problems were similar, I couldn't make a go of it without adding the water coalescing filter. Before adding water coalescing filter, I used my cotton-filled YH black filter to test air going into molecular sieve, a soaked cotton insert meant upgrade to moisture removal system required. WM

Hmmmm not sure what I got. I got this:

Amazon.com

 

[WorriedMan]

Hmmmm not sure what I got. I got this:

Amazon.com

That's the molecular sieve M50 I got first, as well. Works good in well air conditioned or other low humidity environments but couldn't handle the moisture in my humid Florida garage. Ended up adding the copper-colored water coalescing filter for bulk moisture removal ahead of the M50 gold filter. I still don't use compressor on high heat/humidity days of summer usually hold off until cooler early morning. WM

 

[Huncowboy]

That's the molecular sieve M50 I got first, as well. Works good in well air conditioned or other low humidity environments but couldn't handle the moisture in my humid Florida garage. Ended up adding the copper-colored water coalescing filter for bulk moisture removal ahead of the M50 gold filter. I still don't use compressor on high heat/humidity days of summer usually hold off until cooler early morning. WM

Dang. I have the same setup as you. SE FL and the pump is in my garage. Can you please link one you recommend? I guess I am sending this one back.

 

[Bill_D]

Dang. I have the same setup as you. SE FL and the pump is in my garage. Can you please link one you recommend? I guess I am sending this one back

If your pump is in the garage and you can roll it towards the door - I bought a hose connector at the hardware store and hooked my inlet hose to an outside water faucet and just let the outlet drain on the ground - no need for the water pump and ice and will stay cooler. Just depends on you water supply - really needs to be soft water without a lot of minerals in it. I also always blowed the water out of the cooling jacket when finished - didn't think it would be good to leave it full of water for any extended period without an inhibitor.

 

[WorriedMan]

Dang. I have the same setup as you. SE FL and the pump is in my garage. Can you please link one you recommend? I guess I am sending this one back.

Wouldn't send it back, M50 makes a perfect "finishing touch" for moisture removal. Check out my picture, you'll see I use both. Don't have a link but search, "PCP coalescing water filters," on eBay, you'll find plenty. There're even cutaway diagrams to show how they work. Expect to pay around $110-125, a good look at my picture will show what they look like, it's the copper-colored one nearest the back wall. WM