Well, I haven't been on this site for a while. It's completely changed.
Those of you that swage your own slugs: What kind of lubricant do you use? I've tried silicone lube, STP Oil Treatment lube, Dillion case lube, RCBS case lube, and Corbin's swaging lube, all with the same results. The problem is removing the slug from the internal punch that makes the hollow point. I've been unable to swage regular HP slugs because after forming the slug it's basically stuck on the end of the punch. Pliers are needed to remove it, ruining the slug. This has been a problem from the very beginning with the P die. I've been making my own slugs for about 2 years now. The only slugs that can be made now are the hybrid ones. The S die for the hybrid slugs worked fine at the very beginning. Removing the slug from that internal punch was easy. I could swage 600 slugs and never needed pliers to remove the slug. It just lifted off very easily. Not anymore. Pliers and a small piece of leather are needed to remove the slug from the tip of the punch. All the swaging equipment being used was purchased from Corbins including the wire. The main caliber being swaged at present is .25. Once the slug is formed, it's completely free from the die. It's just the slug and the punch. I haven't figured out why is sticks so bad. Putting lube on the end of the punch doesn't help. Room temperature doesn't matter. The only thing that changes that I'm aware of is the wire. I buy it from Corbins, four 10lb spools to a box. One or two spools in the box may work so, so, while the other two spools are a nightmare. The dies in question have just one bleed hole. About 1/2'' - 3/4'' of metal comes out. The cores are 11/2 to 2 grains heavier than the slug being made.
Anybody run into this problem or know what's going on here? Thank you.
Also, does anyone know who makes swaging dies other than Corbins? I've looked but can't find anybody. Die makers are out there, but they don't advertise, so they're hard to find.
Those of you that swage your own slugs: What kind of lubricant do you use? I've tried silicone lube, STP Oil Treatment lube, Dillion case lube, RCBS case lube, and Corbin's swaging lube, all with the same results. The problem is removing the slug from the internal punch that makes the hollow point. I've been unable to swage regular HP slugs because after forming the slug it's basically stuck on the end of the punch. Pliers are needed to remove it, ruining the slug. This has been a problem from the very beginning with the P die. I've been making my own slugs for about 2 years now. The only slugs that can be made now are the hybrid ones. The S die for the hybrid slugs worked fine at the very beginning. Removing the slug from that internal punch was easy. I could swage 600 slugs and never needed pliers to remove the slug. It just lifted off very easily. Not anymore. Pliers and a small piece of leather are needed to remove the slug from the tip of the punch. All the swaging equipment being used was purchased from Corbins including the wire. The main caliber being swaged at present is .25. Once the slug is formed, it's completely free from the die. It's just the slug and the punch. I haven't figured out why is sticks so bad. Putting lube on the end of the punch doesn't help. Room temperature doesn't matter. The only thing that changes that I'm aware of is the wire. I buy it from Corbins, four 10lb spools to a box. One or two spools in the box may work so, so, while the other two spools are a nightmare. The dies in question have just one bleed hole. About 1/2'' - 3/4'' of metal comes out. The cores are 11/2 to 2 grains heavier than the slug being made.
Anybody run into this problem or know what's going on here? Thank you.
Also, does anyone know who makes swaging dies other than Corbins? I've looked but can't find anybody. Die makers are out there, but they don't advertise, so they're hard to find.