Tuning TAIPAN ... Veteran No more hammer PING & Some other tuning tricks

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At some point I'm going to fabricate a replacement Thimble being a single hole feeding the air behind a chambered pellet.

Doing so we will shrink the dead air volume further within the transfer passage which should yield greater efficiency allowing us to reduce HST slightly for the same output power.

While i have not measured it ? .... I would be incline to say that with the HUGE bridge divided thimble in place, the excess area it creates is equal to or close too the volume of the transfer space below it above the Brass seat. I mean it's HUGE.

For those who have never seen a Taipan Veteran, here a picture taken off the web
vet transfer port.1599689805.jpg


Now imagine the tiny .177 caliber hole & not the .22 or .25 hole shown !! Wow is right.



UPDATE on THIMBLE ....

Removed it today and figured the easy way to deal with this is SIMPLY TURN THIMBLE OVER ... Fill the Huge twin passage and drill a single transfer hole 180* opposing.

Placed a small piece of silicone R/C fuel line threw the center hole to block it up. Cut a few pieces of Copper pipe solder being wet with flux so it would flow and level.

Lightly heating the thimble with propane torch flame the solder easily melted and filled up the 2 port passages. That done over the belt sander dressing off most of the dome of solder from overfilling and a file dressing the thimbles round profile Both ports are filled up and space eliminated.

Other side we drill a 1/8" hole on center all the way threw to inner bore, Spot face the transfer diameter of .161" just shy of breaking threw to inner bore and take a dremel bit of 1/8" and ELONGATE the hole into a front to back SLOT to get back the .161" area w/o having pellet tipping into the port. Sort of 1/2 the OEM twin port now.



Over on Chrony ... 932-935 fps where we had been running and set @ 918-920 previous. Did exactly what I figured would happen and was able to back off the HST a tad.



Love it !!











Scott S
Click to expand...

This is GREAT!!!
 
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Love it Motorhead!

Lots of idea's

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Made a new valve

Used an old experimental edgun valve with a 2mm Ti rod.

Made a steel 3mm bushing to fit the Taipan

Glued it al togetter, tomorrow testing time.

mtnGhost did a lot of research on the valve,

his topics and posts were very intresting.

Scott, thanks for your input!

Regards, Robert.

Edit; do you think the peek will survive max power with the .22?
 
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Likely my last tweak ....

Raised the reg to @ 122 bar ( From @ 116 ) where the gun when coming OFF regulation and just falling away slowly, now stays mostly level or + @ 4-6 fps higher for a few shots before slowly falling away. While shooting with the slightly higher set point has shots sounding a tad snappier which would be expected using a "Cobra" air spring on poppet.



Thinking we're done.



Scott S


 
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Nicely done! Ping really bugs me too. I did basically the same thing to the hammer on a P15 except I used brass. It makes a big difference. At the time I did it, I hadn't heard of peek too much, and others in the U.K. were also using derlin, which I thought would be too soft. I have recently been using a peek striker on my Mrod and it has really worked out well. This is another one of those things that should just be done by the oem, no negatives.
 
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Great post. I always enjoy reading about the tricks tuners use. I’ve been wanting a .177 to supplement my 22 long on days when I feel a little more sporting. Honestly I felt a little bummed they used the modular approach even though I would have never known until reading this. Does Weihrauch use the same approach with the HW100, as that’s the other one I was considering? Thanks again for the great read as I learned something today.
 
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Made a heavier factory style hammer with a press fit PEEK tip. Similar to what you did Scott, I had to use a carbide center bit drill to cut out a cavity for the tip / insert.

6CC359CB-7455-432C-AE32-A6D763F98AF3.1614147934.jpeg



I had the seat part of the first PEEK tip cut perfectly to match the cavity, but I failed account for the little teeny but if extra space required with my adhesive LOL, so I had to make a second one.

The end result: I could discern any differences with my custom valve, but it changed the sound a bit with a new factory long Taipan (except the HST had to be turned way down to account for the extra hammer weight). 


One thing that does seem to make a lot of difference is a thin press fit POM-H washer / buffer between the spring (and/or hammer weight) and the hammer.

8CBE96D0-0CA9-4348-83C5-442460904D24.1614148365.jpeg


That really takes some of the "SLAP" out of the equation.
 
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Had not thought about there being a bit of noise from the rebounding hammer back against the spring ? ( these hammers are in free flight BTW )

Easy enough to place a thin "Non Metal" washer in there and just back off the HST adjuster an equal amount.



Thanks !
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Yep. I forgot to mention this, but the other trick seems to be using springs with a thinner wire diameter and/or springs made from materials that do not resonate as much. I had good results with springs made from Inconel 600 alloy in my Mutant shorty, but I had to make the springs longer and wound up making a custom hammer adjuster that I could tweak with various size spring guides. 

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I got 35FPE out of that test LOL, but when I run a long, thin spring with polymer bushings on both ends - it's about as quiet as it can be.
 
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I like the hammer adjuster you made! Is that a standard metric thread on the hammer adjuster?

When my Taipan Vet.25 was NEW, a few months back, even just moving the safety to 'Fire' made a ping sound. I realize these sounds are from different actions but the gun does both.

I have ZERO BUYER'S REMORSE concerning this gun and will probably buy a compact in .22
 
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Made a heavier hammer by drilling a hole 5,5 cm deep, 5mm wide in the hammer.

Filled it with lead and made a peek tip for closure and to reduse sound.

Also made a pom guide/seating for the spring.

A stock hammer weights about 24 gram, this one 26.

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This realy reduced the sound.

Do not dril a hole in the stock hammer, the outer diameter wil become slightly bigger.

A made a complete new hammer from scratch and started with drilling before the shinsel.

Regards, Robert.
 
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Made a heavier hammer by drilling a hole 5,5 cm deep, 5mm wide in the hammer.

Filled it with lead and made a peek tip for closure and to reduse sound.

Also made a pom guide/seating for the spring.

A stock hammer weights about 24 gram, this one 26.

download.png
20210228_100207.1614504868.jpg


download.png
20210228_095947.1614504888.jpg


This realy reduced the sound.

Do not dril a hole in the stock hammer, the outer diameter wil become slightly bigger.

A made a complete new hammer from scratch and started with drilling before the shinsel.

Regards, Robert.
Click to expand...

If you're opposed to using hammer weights (such as brass), then it's easier to turn a heavier single piece hammer from heavy tool steel. A lot of that weight can be placed in the spring guide area, but the hammer I just made weighs 4.2 grams more than the factory hammer (without extending the larger OD spring guide portion).
 
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JULY 1 2021 .....

Just received a customers NEW Vet shorty in .177 and spent @ 3 hours replicating these modifications ..... SORT OF ?

The receivers transfer path is now EVEN LARGER !!!! measuring a massive .266" diameter. The valves body having an exit size similar, yet a PUNY throat diameter of only @ .190" and still having a .118" stem on poppet.

* talk about MISMATCHED and not purpose built for the caliber ... damn !! Throw in a restrictive valve body and call it good is NOT going to cut it.



So for this rifle i made a NEW valve body that throats at .250" and exits at @ .160" Peek poppet head on .125" stem.

Soda straw transfer reducer taking the .266" transfer path down to @ .140" for the @ .725" length of transfer path. Twin port Barrel thimble solder filled and 180* flipped and single hole drilled at .140"



All said and done .... SNAP firing cycle and sipping air as it should.



Scott S
 
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Another trick figured out and added ...

Acetal sleeve of 1/2 " O.D. drilled out to @ .020" smaller than spring O.D. Split end to end it opens up the accept spring inside it. Length allowing cocking travel + a small amount.

It clears the cocking mechanics and sear etc ... damp them vibes !!!

Think of it as a TACO shell around the spring damping vibration of the coils ..... MUCH Quieter yet.
 
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Another trick figured out and added ...

Acetal sleeve of 1/2 " O.D. drilled out to @ .020" smaller than spring O.D. Split end to end it opens up the accept spring inside it. Length allowing cocking travel + a small amount.

It clears the cocking mechanics and sear etc ... damp them vibes !!!

Think of it as a TACO shell around the spring damping vibration of the coils ..... MUCH Quieter yet.
Click to expand...

Brilliant idea!!! Guessing it doesn't take much material to dampen / diffuse it 🤔 
 
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