Talk me out of a GX CS3

Hello, new to the forum and the PCP world. Anyhow, I bought a rifle and need an economical way to fill it ( don't know how you guys afford this hobby). I find it odious that I'm even considering a Chinese compressor from a Chinese company but here we are. I've already sent one email to GX and got no reply so we're not off to a good start.

I'll only be filling the rifle and not letting the tank get to low. Assuming that I properly maintain a CS3, how long could I expect this thing last? Talon Forge has parts and that's good but it'd be awful nice to not need them for 10 years.
 
CockSure,
All kidding aside, grab your wallet, you're in for a wild ride. Won't talk you out of the GX CS3, think it's best of the high-speed fan-cooled offerings. Since heat is the sworn enemy of HPA compressors, those that offer the best cooling system programs will live the longest. Big dollar compressors ($1,000 on up) will serve most faithfully; however, many here enjoy the hobby successfully with a less expensive Yong Heng. Suggest a visit to the archives, searching, "Yong Heng," for more information. Best of Luck, WM
 
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After almost four years now and my little ole Yong Heng, just keeps chugging along. Just keep it cool, change the oil regularly, and don't overdo it. fill to a reasonable pressure. I Fill both 74 & 88 tanks to 4,300 psi, but do not let pressure go below 3,000psi. For $250.00 delivered, if anything major breaks, just replace it.As Worried Man says, a lot of info out there on the forum as well as some very good videos. Parts are reasonable and they are very plentiful.
 
The YH is a proven platform and many more expensive brand compressors use the same platform. They are fast, loud and they run hot, so need good cooling. The slower compressors like those using the GX platform run much cooler and quieter, and if you are only filling airguns should serve you well. If I were to talk you out of the CS3, it would only be because I'd be suggesting the CS4! But, only if you plan on future expansion with the hobby, meaning you may purchase a larger tank or an airgun that takes a higher fill like the Huben K1. The CS4 has an internal cooling system and a 5 hour run cycle, will fill to 400 BAR and is way quieter and the YH and others built on that platform.

The CS4 is currently out of stock just about everywhere, but if you can wait, they should be back in stock at GX Pumps around the 10th of this month. If you are interested in the CS3, they have those on sale and offer 10% off with coupon code: GXPUMPS10OFF


Good luck with your research no matter which way you decide to go...
 
The YH is a proven platform and many more expensive brand compressors use the same platform. They are fast, loud and they run hot, so need good cooling. The slower compressors like those using the GX platform run much cooler and quieter, and if you are only filling airguns should serve you well. If I were to talk you out of the CS3, it would only be because I'd be suggesting the CS4! But, only if you plan on future expansion with the hobby, meaning you may purchase a larger tank or an airgun that takes a higher fill like the Huben K1. The CS4 has an internal cooling system and a 5 hour run cycle, will fill to 400 BAR and is way quieter and the YH and others built on that platform.

The CS4 is currently out of stock just about everywhere, but if you can wait, they should be back in stock at GX Pumps around the 10th of this month. If you are interested in the CS3, they have those on sale and offer 10% off with coupon code: GXPUMPS10OFF


Good luck with your research no matter which way you decide to go...
Listen to FLgunner, he speaks the truth. May the Fourth Be With You, WM
 
As long as you keep in mind that none of these Chinese compressors are built with longevity in mind you'll do ok. Don't expect any of these pumps listed on this page to last 10 years. I've had em all and they all eventually die. I got 50 hours out of my CS3. Have a YH with about 20 hours on it, but it's taken some rebuilds to get it there. Also had a YH crack the crankcase at around 5 hours.

What I do believe is that it's not worth buying the $1000 compressors as they are built around the same base tech as the $250-300 ones. So save the money on the frills and stick with a base YH and get the least expensive of the 12v compressors. It'll get you up and running in the hobby and if you decide to hang around you'll end up going through a few cheapie compressors and either stick with that or upgrade to a higher tier compressor if you need more reliable air.

Welcome to another money pit hobby.
 
Thanks for the replies, I do appreciate them all. No one talked me out of it so I went ahead and ordered a CS3 and we'll go from there and see what happens. I've got more reading to do in the archives concerning filtration, but I'm open to cost effective suggestions but that's probably a different thread. Thanks to all.
 
If you end up with a fairly large water separator / filter setup for your home use to fill guns and tanks, and don't want to have to wait to fill that up every time from zero psi, you can install a one way fitting on the compressor side and a shut off valve with a bleeder valve on the gun side. That will allow you to keep the filter / trap under pressure at all times, but you can remove the gun from the whip and restart the compressor with no load by closing the shutoff valve and opening the bleeder on the gun side. My filter / trap setup takes longer to fill than several of my guns.

For filling in the field with the CS3, I don't use the big filter / trap, just the water trap built in to my CS3 and a small secondary moisture filter. The water trap in the CS3 is very efficient. Significantly better than the one on the Yong Heng, but that might not be enough if you are in a high humidity place. You may need a medium sized secondary water trap / filter for use in the field, or take your full sized one with you.
 
If you end up with a fairly large water separator / filter setup for your home use to fill guns and tanks, and don't want to have to wait to fill that up every time from zero psi, you can install a one way fitting on the compressor side and a shut off valve with a bleeder valve on the gun side. That will allow you to keep the filter / trap under pressure at all times, but you can remove the gun from the whip and restart the compressor with no load by closing the shutoff valve and opening the bleeder on the gun side. My filter / trap setup takes longer to fill than several of my guns.

For filling in the field with the CS3, I don't use the big filter / trap, just the water trap built in to my CS3 and a small secondary moisture filter. The water trap in the CS3 is very efficient. Significantly better than the one on the Yong Heng, but that might not be enough if you are in a high humidity place. You may need a medium sized secondary water trap / filter for use in the field, or take your full sized one with you.
Can you post some pictures of your set-up and possible a source for the parts you used? Sounds like a great set-up! I have been reluctant to add a larger in-line filter to my CS4 because of the extra time it adds to filling.
 
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Thanks for the replies, I do appreciate them all. No one talked me out of it so I went ahead and ordered a CS3 and we'll go from there and see what happens. I've got more reading to do in the archives concerning filtration, but I'm open to cost effective suggestions but that's probably a different thread. Thanks to all.
I vote we share and compare our experiences. I don't own a PCP rifle or anything that I can fill yet, but I just completed a Yong Heng compressor system. We could compare use, maintenance, longevity, fill times and more. That way in the years to come we both might have info to make a better decision if we need to buy a new compressor.
 
Can you post some pictures of your set-up and possible a source for the parts you used? Sounds like a great set-up! I have been reluctant to add a larger in-line filter to my CS4 because of the extra time it adds to filling.

Here you go.

1683304459056.png


One Way QD Connector on Amazon $9.

1683305154478.png



This shutoff valve below has been working well for me since November. $16 on Amazon at the time of purchase. It has a hole in the knob to insert a rod or some kind of tool, make it easier to turn when under higher pressures such as 4500 psi but I can manage it without the assist rod. I think some O-Ring grease inside the valve would make it easier to turn, but I didn't want to take it apart until it needs new seals.

1678429665142.png



You will need a bleed valve between the shutoff valve and the gun so you can disconnect it with pressure still in the lines on both sides of the valve.

For that, I used this filter for $40 on Amazon that has a bleed valve built in. Currently $23 on Aliexpress or $27 with a whip. I use this on the gun side of my Yong Heng and my CS3.

1678429874905.png
 
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Here you go.

View attachment 353836


This valve below has been working well for me since November. $16 on Amazon at the time of purchase. It has a hole in the knob to insert a rod or some kind of tool, make it easier to turn when under higher pressures such as 4500 psi but I can manage it without the assist rod. I think some O-Ring grease inside the valve would make it easier to turn, but I didn't want to take it apart until it needs new seals.

1678429665142.png



You will need a bleed valve between the shutoff valve and the gun so you can disconnect it with pressure still in the lines on both sides of the valve.

For that, I used this filter for $40 on Amazon that has a bleed valve built in. Currently $23 on Aliexpress or $27 with a whip. I use this on the gun side of my Yong Heng and my CS3.

1678429874905.png
Did you use a ¼" NPT to foster fitting to put that Amazon valve inline?
 
Sorry, I am not sure that the threads are. I just grabbed fittings out of my parts box and hooked everything up.
That sounds spooky. The valve you linked is ¼" NTP but everything on most of these Chinese compressors are 10mm x 1mm thread pitch. I think you can "make" a ¼" NTP thread into that metric standard, although I wouldn't think that's a good safe idea.
 
Everything matched threads perfectly, nothing was forced or "filled" with Teflon tape. The shutoff valve is steel, rated at 6000 PSI. All the adapter parts are steel hydraulic fittings, rated at 6000 PSI. The QD fittings are steel, rated at 4500 PSI or higher. The filter / bleeder body is aluminum, rated at 4500 PSI. There is no burst disk on the filter but there are three in the "system". One on the compressor, one on the large trap / filter and one on the gun. It has been a while so I had to go back and look at my original orders and notes.

1683310014993.png
 
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