I purchased a used Diana Bandit a few days ago and put a few .22 pellets down the pipe to see what the pistol’s accuracy potential was. Surprisingly it was pretty darn accurate, especially for its price point. The main thing that was holding it back for better accuracy was the trigger because it was stiffer than a fence post and certainly not conducive for pin point accuracy punching holes in paper. 3 Pounds 11.5 ounces is fine for a defense CCW pistol but not what I had in mind for a target pistol.
So I set out to try my hand at making this trigger more user friendly. After I removed the trigger, sear, hammer and springs I knew what components that I had to address. I spent a considerable amount of time stoning the sear, hammer and trigger interfacing surfaces. Then I buffed these faces to a mirror finish. The photos below show the components after final polishing. The pencil points to each of the faces that were stoned and polished.
Next all of the parts were cleaned thoroughly with Prolix which leaves a dry film lubricant behind. I also polished the hammer spring too. Then I cleaned the inside of the gun that the hammer slides into. and it was was filthy and rusty.
Even the inside of the hammer, where the spring rides, was rusty too.
Lastly and most importantly the spring was replaced under the sear bar. I used a much lighter spring from a ball point pen. The spring was larger in diameter and would not fit into the holes in the trigger bar and hammer housing. So I cut two short pieces of aluminum tig wire that fit into the spring holes and extended outside the hole by about 1/16” of an inch. I added a dab of grease to the pins and spring ends to hold these parts in place during reassembly.
Finally I reassembled all of the parts after putting a light coat of grease on all of the trigger group mating surfaces. After it was all back together the trigger pull measured a much improved 3.7 ounces.
I am not advising anyone to modify their trigger but merely documenting the process that I went through to modify my trigger group to make it lighter and increase the pistol’s accuracy potential.
So I set out to try my hand at making this trigger more user friendly. After I removed the trigger, sear, hammer and springs I knew what components that I had to address. I spent a considerable amount of time stoning the sear, hammer and trigger interfacing surfaces. Then I buffed these faces to a mirror finish. The photos below show the components after final polishing. The pencil points to each of the faces that were stoned and polished.
Next all of the parts were cleaned thoroughly with Prolix which leaves a dry film lubricant behind. I also polished the hammer spring too. Then I cleaned the inside of the gun that the hammer slides into. and it was was filthy and rusty.
Even the inside of the hammer, where the spring rides, was rusty too.
Lastly and most importantly the spring was replaced under the sear bar. I used a much lighter spring from a ball point pen. The spring was larger in diameter and would not fit into the holes in the trigger bar and hammer housing. So I cut two short pieces of aluminum tig wire that fit into the spring holes and extended outside the hole by about 1/16” of an inch. I added a dab of grease to the pins and spring ends to hold these parts in place during reassembly.
Finally I reassembled all of the parts after putting a light coat of grease on all of the trigger group mating surfaces. After it was all back together the trigger pull measured a much improved 3.7 ounces.
I am not advising anyone to modify their trigger but merely documenting the process that I went through to modify my trigger group to make it lighter and increase the pistol’s accuracy potential.
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