TANK PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE SEALS QUESTION

Jump to latest Follow Reply
SilentSquirrel

SilentSquirrel

Member
Jun 1, 2019
1,904
1,245
The other Washington, United States
Hello members
I feel like a newby
This the kind of stuff I'm supposed to know already
Here goes
I have 2 tanks (90L & 60 minute) on which the fill set pressure release valves are no longer sealing properly.
My question are:
- Which seals do I use?
-Where can I find them

Attached are photos of the 2 release valves and the 2 tanks/fillsets

Thanks
Edward

Release Valves 1.jpg


Release Valve 2.jpg


Tank 2.jpg


TANK 1.jpg
 
Those are your bleed off screws, I guess. Not sure exactly the problem you're describing. Do you mean the bleed screws are not holding as pressure in your tank rises? Is there a white nylon (Delrin) "donut" that the screw closes against? Can you show a picture of the INSIDE of where those screw into?
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: rc4fun
Upvote 0
If you have calipers measure the i.d. of the screw hole or the outer diameter of the screw itself. You can get those Delrin seals off anywhere that carries pcp compressor parts (Aliexpress, Ebay, Amazon, etc.) I have a bunch of spares. IF you respond to your own post I'll send some. If you have your own compressor you probably got spare parts that came with it & might already have some. For the sake of clarity those "fill set pressure release valves" are bleed screws. Wasn't sure what you meant at first. Please answer & provide pictures if you can.
 
Upvote 0
Thanks for all the replies and good suggestions
With @Humdinger 's recommendation I have started shopping flat (not conical) seals
These seem to me to be soft seals with no hole in them, unlike the hard nylon washer type seals used on compressors and gauges
It will be a while before they get here

There is a photo of the inside of each bore attached for reference

FWIW
I installed an X ring of appropriate OD into the bore on one of the fill sets
With a deadhead in the line it held 220Bar. (tank valve closed)
However, opening the bleed screw at that pressure is darn impossible.
Certainly not a good solution for bleeding
Fortunately, the X-ring released some pressure after about 45 minutes, and it is now open

I'll try something else tomorrow

Edward

PS
@Gerry52
Thanks for the offer
I have a good supply of the seals you mentioned

STEM-tank 2.jpgSTEM-tank 1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0
Gerry52 said:
If you have calipers measure the i.d. of the screw hole or the outer diameter of the screw itself. You can get those Delrin seals off anywhere that carries pcp compressor parts (Aliexpress, Ebay, Amazon, etc.) I have a bunch of spares. IF you respond to your own post I'll send some. If you have your own compressor you probably got spare parts that came with it & might already have some. For the sake of clarity those "fill set pressure release valves" are bleed screws. Wasn't sure what you meant at first. Please answer & provide pictures if you can.
Click to expand...
Well guys/gals,
I have to admit failure, so far
None of the places I searched/contacted have seals to firt my bleed screws
And my makeshift methods have not worked.

@Gerry52
Can you tell me how you made the nylon (with a hole) seals work please.
I tried that too, using numerous sizes, and failed also
Perhaps (exact) size matters

Thanks
Edward
 
Upvote 0
SilentSquirrel said:
Well guys/gals,
I have to admit failure, so far
None of the places I searched/contacted have seals to firt my bleed screws
And my makeshift methods have not worked.

@Gerry52
Can you tell me how you made the nylon (with a hole) seals work please.
I tried that too, using numerous sizes, and failed also
Perhaps (exact) size matters

Thanks
Edward
Click to expand...
Your bleed screw ends are different from mine. How I got them "to work" was by just replacing the seals (delrin) in mine that were bad. Maybe it's time to replace your tank valves with STANDARD SCBA valves & get CGA347 fill adapters. That's the best I can come up with, sorry. Never seen bleed screws quite like yours. Mine have metal ends that seal against the delrin "donuts" that are in the bottom of the female receptacle. That make sense?
NOTE: I'm not flippantly telling you to "just go spend more money ". It's just the best way I can think of to solve your problem. SCBA valves are pretty inexpensive on Ebay as are the cga347 fill adapters (but "inexpensive" is subjective).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: SilentSquirrel
Upvote 0
Gerry52 said:
Your bleed screw ends are different from mine. How I got them "to work" was by just replacing the seals (delrin) in mine that were bad. Maybe it's time to replace your tank valves with STANDARD SCBA valves & get CGA347 fill adapters. That's the best I can come up with, sorry. Never seen bleed screws quite like yours. Mine have metal ends that seal against the delrin "donuts" that are in the bottom of the female receptacle. That make sense?
NOTE: I'm not flippantly telling you to "just go spend more money ". It's just the best way I can think of to solve your problem. SCBA valves are pretty inexpensive on Ebay as are the cga347 fill adapters (but "inexpensive" is subjective).
Click to expand...
Thanks for the quick reply @Gerry52
Yes, I understand the difference between your bleed screw ends & mine.
And yes again, they are quality valves
One is a Joe Brancato 2 gauge set up, and the other is an Apex.
Which is why I want to fix the bleed screw seals
FWIW I have contacted Brancato and await a reply
About spending money
Like many of us, I am quite good at flippantly doing so.
But your encouragement is always well appreciated

BTW
About your previous advice
I gave up on the leaking OEM regulator and put a Huma in my FX BOSS
What a difference that made.

As soon as I play some more, I might post results for comment.

Edward
 
Upvote 0
SilentSquirrel said:
Thanks for the quick reply @Gerry52
Yes, I understand the difference between your bleed screw ends & mine.
And yes again, they are quality valves
One is a Joe Brancato 2 gauge set up, and the other is an Apex.
Which is why I want to fix the bleed screw seals
FWIW I have contacted Brancato and await a reply
About spending money
Like many of us, I am quite good at flippantly doing so.
But your encouragement is always well appreciated

BTW
About your previous advice
I gave up on the leaking OEM regulator and put a Huma in my FX BOSS
What a difference that made.

As soon as I play some more, I might post results for comment.

Edward
Click to expand...
Have you considered grinding the lowest, damaged parts/seals flat, so that you would have a fresh undamaged sealing surface. I would do that if all else fails, it might even work…
 
Upvote 0
Scotty1 said:
Have you considered grinding the lowest, damaged parts/seals flat, so that you would have a fresh undamaged sealing surface. I would do that if all else fails, it might even work…
Click to expand...
Yes, @Scotty1, I'm thinking on those line too for the one I have not found a replacement for.
But the seal is worn right down to the metal of the screw.
I have some short pieces of Teflon rod in various diameters from which I will try to make a seal.
Edward
 
  • Like
Reactions: Scotty1
Upvote 0
Mike_Lenardon said:
Squirrel, if you can give me some dimensions I can turn you some nylon seals. I've made plenty that have the hole.

I can also reface the bleed screws for you.
Click to expand...
Hey @Mike_Lenardon

Thanks for the offer
There are 2 photos attached
NEW & OLD : is the new one from Airgun Depot for a Joe Brancato Tj3 valve
NEED NEW: is the one I need to put a new seal into

I have nylon rod from McMaster and am going to attempt picking out then old seal and using caveman tools to shape a new one
Fortunately, my tribe of cavemen has electricity, and a drill press too

The odds are in favor of screwing it up, and then you will hear from me

Edward

NEED NEW..jpg


New & Old.jpg
 
Upvote 0
Just an observation and not a slam at all.
I see that there are what appears to be plier or water pump plier teeth marks on the knurled knobs.
If those are in fact teeth marks, it's very likely that you are closing the bleed valve much too tightly by using tools to close them and shortening the life of the Delrin by doing so.
The bleed valves should not need to be overtightened.
Just giving some advice, no harm meant.

mike
 
Upvote 0
Revoman said:
Just an observation and not a slam at all.
I see that there are what appears to be plier or water pump plier teeth marks on the knurled knobs.
If those are in fact teeth marks, it's very likely that you are closing the bleed valve much too tightly by using tools to close them and shortening the life of the Delrin by doing so.
The bleed valves should not need to be overtightened.
Just giving some advice, no harm meant.

mike
Click to expand...
I have to remind myself not to over tighten my valves, seems intuitive to tighten the hell out of something holding back 300 bar.
 
Upvote 0
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom
Back
Home
Forums
Resources
Menu