Tank wise, this ever happened to anyone?

Friday I went to top off one of my 88 cu ft tanks from the typical 3000 to 4500 psi. Connected the Alkin to it, pressure rose at standard speed and when it hit 200 bar I start opening the tanks valve. Usually at this point, as you all know, the gage needle comes to a halt, then it takes the 5 minutes to slowly fill to 4500.

But this time the needle just kept moving along with no stop whatsoever, and when it hit 4000 psi I checked the SCBA’s (firefighter tank) and see the needle still at the 3200 psi mark.

So the tank wasn’t getting topped off. I turned the compresdor off, disconnected the full whip, and opened up the tanks valve. Air shooting out like normal. I let the tank pressure go down to 2500 psi, reconnect and turned the Alkin back on. Same scenario. Fill hose gage up to 4000 psi, tank gage reads 2500.

Thinking I may have a problem with the alkin(I have to say, in my head I was saying BRING IT, lol), I connected to another 88 cu ft SCBA that was also down to 3000, and the mighty Alkin topped it off no oroblem, like normal.

So I drained the first tank completely empty and removed the valve. I didn’t open any parts to it except turned the knob fully open to fully closed a few times. Reconnected the valve, and reconnected the Alkin for a full fill from empty. It took about 5 minutes to get to 100 bar and it hung there for about 20 seconds at a stand still, then I heard a faint pop and then the needle on the fill whips gage start moving along. I was able to fill it to 4500. I let it cool off a couple hours, pressure had dropped To 4000, and then I topped it back off to 4500.

So, after all the details given, have any of you had a valve get stuck closed? What causes that? I’ve never ever had an SCBA tank valve get stuck, ever.

If there is a maintenance type of procedure to do to SCBA fire fighters valves please do tell
 
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I’ve had something similar happen with a high quality aftermarket valve. In my case, the valve knob was not opening the valve, but unthreading from the valve stem. The valve was new to me, and fortunately the manufacturer helped correct the problem. There is more to the story, but that’s the short version. I was also using my Alkin.
 
I have a YH not the Alkin, but a same scenario happened to me somewhere earlier this year. In one occasion the YH built up a pressure but the tank was still low.
Turned out, that I opened the moisture/oil purge vents maybe too fast and too much out, and the oring inside popped, and the small "rubber" chunks started travelling inside micro hose. It toke me couple restarts to realize the hose got clogged and the dirt got somewhere to middle and stop there ... I had some thin steel wire in my garage long enough to push the clog through. And of course cleanup the mess, remove the separator, replace the oring, but instead of the green (material) which I didn't had I put in some BUNA 90.
 
@ Skydivingmiami- yes. SCBA tank valve was fully open till it could not turn CCW anymore
@ Scotty- valve stem? I’ll have to research what the innards look like on a firefighters scba tank valve. Something got stuck or didn’t go “back” off of its seat when I opened up the handle

Bighun- yeah when I removed my valve after I emptied the tank the o ring under the valve was pristine in condition
 
Let me know if you keep having this problem. I have a Scott valve should you need one. The tank's valve design & operation are made to be as simple, dependable & trouble free as possible as human life may depend upon it. I've never had that problem & my first question is do you have a one way check foster on your fill adapter to prevent losing air in tank? If so, it might be sticking.
 
Never had that issue but I like my one way valve at the outlet of my extra moisture filter on my YH. I can just open the tank valve when I close the vent on the YH. The tank cannot push against the YH. Air starts flowing into the tank when the pressure at the second filter exceeds the pressure in the tank. I also do not loose the air in the tank if I develop a leak at the compressor or moisture filters. I've had to replace O-rings in the moisture filters several times.
 
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... one way valve at the outlet of my extra moisture filter ...
Where did you put the external one way valve inline in your setup? I was tinkering about that but in my setup a logical place would be as I mark it up below, but that would be a difficult fitting thread...

where to put a valve.JPG
 
Let me know if you keep having this problem. I have a Scott valve should you need one. The tank's valve design & operation are made to be as simple, dependable & trouble free as possible as human life may depend upon it. I've never had that problem & my first question is do you have a one way check foster on your fill adapter to prevent losing air in tank? If so, it might be sticking.
Thanks, Gerry. None Of mine fill equipment, hoses, fittings, etc have any one way/check valves on them
 
Where did you put the external one way valve inline in your setup? I was tinkering about that but in my setup a logical place would be as I mark it up below, but that would be a difficult fitting thread...

View attachment 306175
I choose to put one on the input to the fist gold unit (blocking tank pressure from the compressor). My thinking is that I can fill the separators with dry air from the tank before starting the compressor which would stop uncompressed wet air from progressing very far into the seperator/filter. I have no scientific evidence either way.
This way also limits the amount of bleed air/water at the compressor.
 
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