I was looking at upgrading my back stop for my back yard range. Currently I have my 5 archery foam cubes in a row that are behind my targets and then also 2 straw bales behind that. The targets are getting some age on them and ALOT of holes and I thought it was time to decluster the yard and upgrade it. I am wanting to get a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4" plywood and then attach rubber matting on either one side or both sides to become a backstop...my question is how thick should I go on the matting. I work for a factory that supplies equipment for coal mines. I will not have a problem getting some scrap pieces to make this work. We have up to 3 inch thick rubber belting at the plant right now. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Target backstop help
- Thread starter Galiher05
- Start date
I know Jim at Precision Airguns uses this 2". Have no idea what the density and makeup is?
http://www.precisionairgunsandsupplies.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=12x24BallisticRubberTile
http://www.precisionairgunsandsupplies.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=12x24BallisticRubberTile
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Galiher, I would worry the rubber mat would bounce the pellets back at you. Look at the second page of the straw bale post under this one for a description of a backstop I built out of used carpet.
Roll'in
Roll'in
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If its conveyer belting then I would use it as a second backstop with a 3/4 high dens.. foam rubber padding as the outer layer this will keep pellets from bouncing back.
Another option that you might think about is a target that I learned to build for bow and arrows. this is the build list
1. 2x12 or 1x12--- 12 foot board
2. Fairly high count bed sheet
3. 4x---1x2x8 trim
4. about 30 gallons of sawdust (easy to get at any sawmill)
5. 4x4 1/2 inch plywood
Its fairly simple and tends to heal itself.
Cut your 12 foot board in three foot sections in one of the boards in the center cut out a fill slot that you can pour the sawdust in. Make a box out of the 3 foot boards nail or screw it together, cut the 1x4 in about 2 foot pieces you can nail the plywood backing to the box to firm it up if you want to you can paint the plywood inside and out to help it last longer.
stretch the bedsheet over the front staple it down, ( tip if you fold the sheet over two or three times then staple it down it will hold better) then nail the trimming around the edge. use the extra trim to make a tic tac toe lattice in the front of the target on top of the sheet to keep the sheet from bellowing out and give you something to tape or tack your paper targets to.
Fill the box with sawdust and pack it tight the tighter the better
You now have a three foot square target that will easily stop just about any pellet up to 25 cal. and perhaps even bigger
Another option that you might think about is a target that I learned to build for bow and arrows. this is the build list
1. 2x12 or 1x12--- 12 foot board
2. Fairly high count bed sheet
3. 4x---1x2x8 trim
4. about 30 gallons of sawdust (easy to get at any sawmill)
5. 4x4 1/2 inch plywood
Its fairly simple and tends to heal itself.
Cut your 12 foot board in three foot sections in one of the boards in the center cut out a fill slot that you can pour the sawdust in. Make a box out of the 3 foot boards nail or screw it together, cut the 1x4 in about 2 foot pieces you can nail the plywood backing to the box to firm it up if you want to you can paint the plywood inside and out to help it last longer.
stretch the bedsheet over the front staple it down, ( tip if you fold the sheet over two or three times then staple it down it will hold better) then nail the trimming around the edge. use the extra trim to make a tic tac toe lattice in the front of the target on top of the sheet to keep the sheet from bellowing out and give you something to tape or tack your paper targets to.
Fill the box with sawdust and pack it tight the tighter the better
You now have a three foot square target that will easily stop just about any pellet up to 25 cal. and perhaps even bigger
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I have a empty beerbox filled with some old clothes that i rolled hard,piled up in two layers, and between them a thick silverplate i found cheap on a fleemarket, silvertaped the box and it safe to shoot at even with my Bt65 .25, just need some new tape when the holes are getting to big... And no bouncing back bullets cause the clothes catches them
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'Duct Seal' makes a excellent pellet trap/stop.>> http://www.garvinindustries.com/installation-accessories/duct-seal/duct-seal/ds5
Will stop a 14GR 22 cal. pellet fired from 6" away(at 800 FPS)... At 15 yards 22 cal. pellets (from 9GR to 17GR) penetrated 1/2" to 3/4".
Paper targets stick to it.It makes NO noise when hit.Lasts a long time.And its cheap.
Will stop a 14GR 22 cal. pellet fired from 6" away(at 800 FPS)... At 15 yards 22 cal. pellets (from 9GR to 17GR) penetrated 1/2" to 3/4".
Paper targets stick to it.It makes NO noise when hit.Lasts a long time.And its cheap.
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I can second duct seal, but you still need a metal backer plate. The reason is that with accurate guns you will be shooting hole on hole if you are aiming at a target, and that will quickly destroy/penetrate almost anything; perhaps rubber mulch might be better, provided that it settles after a shot or two? I made my basement setup, at 18 yards distance, from a wooden wine case with a 1/2" steel backer plate and about an inch of duct seal on top of that. I made a trough at the bottom to catch pellets that fall out of the duct seal. The duct seal absorbs most of the pellets energy, but quickly forms a tunnel when pellets are stacked one on one. I occasionally rearrange the seal to cover up holes formed at target centers, and dig out what's left of the pellets. I'm shooting a .22 @ 30 ft lbs and a .30 at @ 80 ft lbs. The system has been in use > 2 years and I think will last for many years to come, but the backer plate is key.
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Thanks for help guys....I will be using a few AR500 gongs in front of the back stop so I am hoping I won't have to worry too much about the rubber getting penetrated. The rubber mulch is a great idea...i appreciate all the great ideas...looks like after this weekend I will plan on building.
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I use diy AR500 pellet traps... Can stop a big bore without breaking a sweat. Frankly they could stop most powder burners!
I built mine so that I have 1 portable and 1 in my 2' thick adobe garden wall. They also let me catch the lead so I can melt it down and cast more pellets...
The design is simply 2 angled plates that direct the pellet to a vertical pipe where the lead collects.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KGHZxWybsFRHVBMTJDTjgxU3J3RUlUaU9xREpqRG1mdDJF/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KGHZxWybsFTEFHWjhwc3F3Mkg2NkxVNlZFZnFzSmhaZEFr/view?usp=sharing
I built mine so that I have 1 portable and 1 in my 2' thick adobe garden wall. They also let me catch the lead so I can melt it down and cast more pellets...
The design is simply 2 angled plates that direct the pellet to a vertical pipe where the lead collects.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KGHZxWybsFRHVBMTJDTjgxU3J3RUlUaU9xREpqRG1mdDJF/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KGHZxWybsFTEFHWjhwc3F3Mkg2NkxVNlZFZnFzSmhaZEFr/view?usp=sharing
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Can't post photos for some reason. Hopefully the links that I added work. These are the portable one. The garden wall one will just have to wait because it's dark out...
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I have some 12 by 12 blocks of cedar left over from some columns I shoot at. They get heavier and heavier the more I shoot at em. They have been stopping pellets for awhile. I had 4 but now down to three. I had one split on me due to a huge wad of lead building up in it.
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