Teslong NTG100 view better than expected .

[Jaxjax]

Tried to fire it up on my phone but wouldn't connect without removing my case.. said screw that & went & got laptop. plugged it in got it running pretty quick. for the $60-80 I paid I won't complain abit. The LW SS .25 10g pics made me happy for bore condition except at lead in & will address that. The .30 barrel is a 6G that I always thought was a POLY barrel but the lands & grooves look conventional to me & have no clue what it is. It's an older RAW .30 barrel. What I would like to know is how to address the lead in.. I have clover & JB Blue on hand. I just want to get rid of the rough are at lead in ..after port seems ok.
The .30 lead in isn't as bad but still needs done IMO. I'm seriously thinking of a drill with a swabit & clover/JB blue in rotation & no further then back side of port. Not sure how to approach it really, to me the lead in looks like crap & needs smoothed out. 1st series of pics are the .25 10g 2nd is the 6g .30

.30 6g & 1st pic is crown edge with the factory stripper still attached. Is it a Poly ?

 

[dgeesaman]

Lead just smears onto metal and needs to be scrubbed off. Ideally it takes very little force to remove it, which makes de-leading an airgun barrel usually a lot less difficult than a firearm barrel where it's been embedded with 10x or 20x the pressure and heat.

This isn't for everyone but on the .30 I would take a .284 bronze brush and work it in and out in the areas where leading is severe. Should not take much. Then a little bore paste to clean up the entire bore. I would not rotate a brush or patch against the grooves because it's not going to clean between them and may wear them further.

That should be enough to skip the bronze and abrasives for the rest of the life of the barrel if you keep up with it going forward.

 

[Jaxjax]

 

[Jaxjax]

Lead just smears onto metal and needs to be scrubbed off. Ideally it takes very little force to remove it, which makes de-leading an airgun barrel usually a lot less difficult than a firearm barrel where it's been embedded with 10x or 20x the pressure and heat.

This isn't for everyone but on the .30 I would take a .284 bronze brush and work it in and out in the areas where leading is severe. Should not take much. Then a little bore paste to clean up the entire bore. I would not rotate a brush or patch against the grooves because it's not going to clean between them and may wear them further.

That should be enough to skip the bronze and abrasives for the rest of the life of the barrel if you keep up with it going forward.

I will try as you suggest, the .30 definitely needs abit of work. I have a smooth rotating bore rod & will just use that. What about the sharp 90 degree edges at port.? Mild JB blue.? or leave alone.?

 

[dgeesaman]

I forgot RAWs have a port on the medium and large calibers. I'd pull the barrel and clean it where I know I can prevent crap from getting into and through the port.

I'm perfectly comfortable pulling the barrel. If you're reluctant then I'd skip the abrasives and stick with patches and or light solution.

 

[Jaxjax]

I forgot RAWs have a port on the medium and large calibers. I'd pull the barrel and clean it where I know I can prevent crap from getting into and through the port.

I'm perfectly comfortable pulling the barrel. If you're reluctant then I'd skip the abrasives and stick with patches and or light solution.

I pull em probably to much as it is I''ll soft jaw the barrel work as I do it. I'm going to try my 1st taper lap this winter on a Lilja barrel I have that was off spec.. ..@ .1695 x .1766 & 26 twist , it might not be salvageable but worth a shot. I just sent a Shilen .22 4G ratchet 16 twist to Martin for machine work. Those that are in match select version are taper lapped. I got the match grade which are not & my theory being I suspect they run a tight button like Lilja does @ ..215 x .220 then they taper lap it. Shilen holds the B/G spec hush hush & 2 years out on the select match tapered version. Lilja is doing a .215 x .220 for me also, I have the OD's done to .71 to clear RAW cf bottles & .75 on the aluminum bottle bench models. I'll start with that LW .30 & see what I can do to clean it up especially in lead in throat area which I'm not comfortable with as it is. Either of them actually. Being able to see inside is a game changer for me & it was cheap...

 

[Airgun-hobbyist]

I use these 3M Tri-M-ITE Wet Dry Polishing Abrasive Paper 400-8,000 grit sheets wrapped twice around a cotton bore mop so they fit fairly snug. They work great for doing exactly what you want to do, and Ieveling off high spots and cutter chatter marks. I let it follow the rifling and don't rotate, except maybe a little at the lead in to knock down rough edges.

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