Texan 457 arrow bolts

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Here is a far better choice in buying a powerful air rifle that shoots air bolts then any Texan. C.A.P. Dragon .50 cal today and holy crap! Mark Cherry from C.A.P. has somehow found a way to fricken DOUBLE the foot pounds of energy from the Air Venturi Seneca Dragon Claw.
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Please,....explain to us in details how the modded Claw .50 is a " FAR BETTER " choice then the Texan .457 to shoot Airbolts.



Really curious to hear your reasoning on this one.
 
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AirArcher66 said:
Airbolts are just a wicked hunting tool,.....no bullet can compare.
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@AirArcher66 Airbolts are your thing. I have seen what you can do. I was wondering how they work for another member new to shooting them. I’d actually intended to reach out to you. I’m interested in some broadheads for use in my Bulldog. Some reviews I read suggested a certain type that fit into the shroud. I’m no archer so I know nothing about arrowheads aside from the different types. I’ve read about grain weights, but I don’t know if that includes the weight of the rest of the bolt or if it’s solely the weight of the arrowhead. I’d like some recommendations. I still have a lot to learn here. I do recall you posting advise about it being good to have the nock situated close to the transfer port.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
@AirArcher66 Airbolts are your thing. I have seen what you can do. I was wondering how they work for another member new to shooting them. I’d actually intended to reach out to you. I’m interested in some broadheads for use in my Bulldog. Some reviews I read suggested a certain type that fit into the shroud. I’m no archer so I know nothing about arrowheads aside from the different types. I’ve read about grain weights, but I don’t know if that includes the weight of the rest of the bolt or if it’s solely the weight of the arrowhead. I’d like some recommendations. I still have a lot to learn here. I do recall you posting advise about it being good to have the nock situated close to the transfer port.
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Morning my friend how you doing ?

to use cutting heads that are able to fit inside a shroud I guess you need those expandable heads that compounders use, I have no experiance in them since I would never use them.

I like the Magnus Snuffer or Wendsel woodsman 3 blades broadheads but you can only use them if you have a large shoud with no baffles like the REX or a gun with a naked barrel.

I use 125gr heads
 
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AirArcher66 said:
Morning my friend how you doing ?

to use cutting heads that are able to fit inside a shroud I guess you need those expandable heads that compounders use, I have no experience in them since I would never use them.

I like the Magnus Snuffer or Wendsel woodsman 3 blades broadheads but you can only use them if you have a large shoud with no baffles like the REX or a gun with a naked barrel.

I use 125gr heads
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@AirArcher66 Top of the Mornin’. From what I read the reviewer suggested the mechanical heads that fold in and expand either in flight or upon impact. I can’t recall. I’ll have to play with them and see. I’m completely new this and ignorant here.

I’m trying to determine a good place to practice with broadheads. I was thinking of placing a target in front of some hay rolls. I don’t want to lose a head in the roll then have to worry about cutting myself while digging it out (or worse) on the event that it separates from the shaft. I have some things to think about. I’m also unsure of what type of target to use with broadheads. They really look like they would destroy a target quickly.
 
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I would not even try using Broadheads for target practice, even with field points it's very hard to stop these arrows,

I ended up using blunts for practice and I had to put together a target with some foam then a bag packed tight with old denim and finally a 3/4" ply to stop the bolt, ence the blunt so it wont stick in the wood,......I can link a bunch of threads where I was testing backstops,

but I can tell you the first time I shot a bolt at half power out of my Dragon Claw .50 into bales where I use to comfortably shoot my 90 # longbow and 1000gr arrows,....it just blew through them like butter, I was shocked.
 
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@AirArcher66 I think I recall one of your posts where you suggested zeroing your scope around 25 20 yards with a projectile roughly the weight of the bolt/head combo. Oops that was in this thread and I see you mentioned zeroing using “the heaviest bullet you can use.” The result should be that the bolt will shoot consistently close to the POI of the corresponding projectile. I figured I would try to shoot 2-3 to see how they work before hunting with them. I also want to shoot across a chronograph to assess my velocity. Would this be a bad idea? Also thanks for sharing your hay story. I was considering shooting into the barn where several large rolls are stored. They are large and difficult it move alone. If it blasts through a big roll I would be shocked. I’d also have to use the tractor to move some rolls around to get to the bolt and head. I hadn’t considered this.
 
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Yes you can definitely shoot through a Chono,...I did that both with the Claw and REXs

you can practice with bolts but use a blunt of the same weight of the Broadheads, you want your arrow to stop before your fletching goes into the target so you can pull them out,...ence the blunt and Ply at the back
there's an old thread on GTA where I go step by step how to make a target, I was using the Claw .50 then.
 
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AirArcher66 said:
Yes you can definitely shoot through a Chono,...I did that both with the Claw and REXs

you can practice with bolts but use a blunt of the same weight of the Broadheads, …there's an old thread on GTA where I go step by step how to make a target, I was using the Claw .50 then.
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@AirArcher66 Thanks. If you can share that link I’d appreciate it.
 
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Ezana4CE said:
@AirArcher66 Thanks. If you can share that link I’d appreciate it.
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Been trying to find it but I deleted my account on GTA so it's not as easy.


Basically this is the sequense ;

first layer is some kind of thick strong foam so your arro will stay in place and not droop, I use broken surfboards but any strong foam material in the 4-5" thickness will work
net you need to fill a backpack or something similat with tightly packed denim or old clothing.
last is a sheet of 3/4" ply.


Tie everything together tight, now you have a portable target that you can take and place where you need.


The key is to use a blunt, it will go through the foam and the clothing but will rest on the ply so you can easily retrive your arrow.
 
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get a spyderweb target. My "no speed limit" one will stop my 300fpe (power tuned 909s) air bolts at around 6".

PXL_20211030_164902529.jpg
 
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Well, that is a given that you need to get the stiffer spined shafts if you build your own arrows, but no need to be worried with AirBolts they are made for that.

Also that kind of archer paradox happens because the arrow need to go around the bow, with an arrow shot from a barrel it leave the gun going straigh already, completely different cup of tea.
 
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