I have received a follow up with Jeremy. He's trying, and I'm trying. At the end of the day that's all anyone can do. See picture
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Airforce Texan SS AFRICAN AIR ORDINANCE?
- Thread starter EliteAirCustoms
- Start date
I noticed with my .510 TX2 34 inch barrel it only makes power with heavy slugs.they all shoot pretty close fps range 450 grain 820 fps and 650 grain 750 -800 fps and 300 grain at barely 900 fps...Id say the only way you can make the foot pounds you need is to shoot 500 grain .457 slugs...Lee has a mold for .458 500 grain spire points for $40.00 pure roofing lead dollar a pound...I wanted that valve for my 650 grain spire point boat tails shooting max settings for 900 to 1000 fps,.. The higher pressure seems like its olny worth it shooting the heavist slugs per caliber...IF your not happy with the valve i might be interested it it
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I'll be testing with 365 max on the weight. If it doesn't do what I need id entertain selling it. ThanksI noticed with my .510 TX2 34 inch barrel it only makes power with heavy slugs.they all shoot pretty close fps range 450 grain 820 fps and 650 grain 750 -800 fps and 300 grain at barely 900 fps...Id say the only way you can make the foot pounds you need is to shoot 500 grain .457 slugs...Lee has a mold for .458 500 grain spire points for $40.00 pure roofing lead dollar a pound...I wanted that valve for my 650 grain spire point boat tails shooting max settings for 900 to 1000 fps,.. The higher pressure seems like its olny worth it shooting the heavist slugs per caliber...IF your not happy with the valve i might be interested it it
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If I sell the MOAV Valve I'll also be selling the magnum spring and heavy hammer. The set was $692 with tax and shipping. We can discuss all that in the event it turns out it isn't for me. TY
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If you have not read my post regarding how to properly tune for max velocity, please take a look and download the test sheet. You will find your rifles max velocity if you download the doc and follow this guide. I also recommend removing the heavy hammer, but do what you will and follow the guide, you’ll be happy with the results.
Thread 'How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air.'
Airforce - How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air.
I frequently see airgunners talking about the confusing subject of tuning the Airforce Texan, so I thought it might be helpful, if I shared my process for "How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air." Please understand that tuning your rifle for velocity is not...
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I read it. Jeremy says there may be a manufacturing flaw in my top hat assembly. He's sending a replacement. Also, I'm still concerned with the gritty ticking sound of the internals of the carrier tube while cocking. So, I used my calipers and measured the magnum spring and factory spring diameter. Magnum spring has to be pushed into position with my hand and the factory spring would fall straight through the carrier tube if not for the hammer and breech block on the opposite end. I'll include pictures of my findings and the email I sent Jeremy to get his thoughts. I do appreciate your advice and PDF documentation. Very thorough and informative. Thanks
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Just so we can put a face to the name, I'm including a couple pics of my Texans. The first picture is the SS in 457. It has the AAO valve installed with the magnum spring and factory hammer. Jeremy says the spring I have is outside the diameter tolerance and is sending a replacement with the top hat assembly. He says that between the 2 he's confident that the gun is going to shoot like a champ. Gonna be about 3 weeks till I get the parts but I'm excited. Looks like I'll be using the LSS (second picture) for deer season this year. I had hoped to let one of the 2 rifles go to justify the cost of the upgrade. But, as it stands I'm glad to have a backup. Deer season comes in November 16th here in Missouri. It's a late start to opening day this year. The bucks are already dogging does here so the rut is gonna have to be handled with a crossbow. Whatever puts'em in the freezer I guess. Thanks for all the input guys. Guess I'll be signing off till the parts get here. Happy hunting and safe shooting to all you big bores out there.
Kind regards, Brett, EliteAirCustoms
Kind regards, Brett, EliteAirCustoms
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Hey, a quick question. After I take a shot my striker sear doesn't re engage when I recock it. I can loosen the 2 screws on the trigger group plate and it clicks and resets. I've looked at the 3 springs, trigger sear and striker release sear. Everything looks fine. But, I shoot and the handle doesn't recock the rifle. It fixes itself, kinda but not until I loosen those 2 screws. One under the grip and one in front at the forearm. Any thoughts? ThanksIf you have not read my post regarding how to properly tune for max velocity, please take a look and download the test sheet. You will find your rifles max velocity if you download the doc and follow this guide. I also recommend removing the heavy hammer, but do what you will and follow the guide, you’ll be happy with the results.
Thread 'How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air.'
Airforce - How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air.
I frequently see airgunners talking about the confusing subject of tuning the Airforce Texan, so I thought it might be helpful, if I shared my process for "How to tune your AirForce Texan for max velocity with very little waisted air." Please understand that tuning your rifle for velocity is not...
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Have been following your thread.. Beautiful Rifle.!!
Seem like a pretty large fail from the AAO guys on this kit.. At least the parts you got. Not sure how a spring can be out of spec like that.. Something isn't adding up.
Mike
Seem like a pretty large fail from the AAO guys on this kit.. At least the parts you got. Not sure how a spring can be out of spec like that.. Something isn't adding up.
Mike
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Thanks, I spend a good deal of time in the hydrographics process. I'm a big fan of pretty much anything else than just black. I'm pretty put out over my AAO modifications quest but he's still working with me on it. I can't assume that everyone has to go through this much effort. I'll keep y'all posted as new updates come in the future.
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Brother... I know the problem you're facing and the fix is simple. I experienced this exact same problem myself... it stumped me at first, but I quickly got through the issue and everything returned to normal. Unfortunately, this happened a while back and just can't recall what I did to correct the problem. I really want to help, but I cannot recall what I did to fix this issue and as soon as the solution comes to me I'll post info on what it was and how to correct it. Also, If your comfortable removing the auto-reset on the safety, try that first.
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Thanks for the reply. This is what I found over the weekend. There is a spring in the front of the striker release (muzzle end) that has a metal plug with a grove cut all the way around it. it is actuated by the safety bar plate. The metal plug is over traveling under the striker release and not allowing it to re-engage the hammer and spring combination inside the carrier tube. I ordered a new striker release and trigger sear from Airforce but they look to be carbon copies of the parts I removed. My parts weren't bent or broken. A gentleman on YouTube experiencing the same issue said his striker release sear was bent and I thought it might be my problem also. I haven't been able to check it yet because I'm waiting on the replacement spring and valve front assembly from AAO. I did remove the front spring and the metal plug all together like the guy on YouTube.....And, what I found is....if all you do is load a slug and fire it, everything is fine. The safety works as it should and the striker release does re-engage the carrier group to once again load hammer and spring tension for the next shot. BUT, if you uncock the loading handle it will fire the rifle regardless of the safety position. That spring and metal plug does serve a purpose in preventing the rear portion of the striker release (a stamped plate with hump on the bottom) from falling down and letting the hammer and spring slam forward, thus firing the rifle. I do have my own personal range and am preforming these test alone. For safety reasons, obviously. And, thank God for that. Everything in the trigger group looks good. The stamped plates, roll pins and springs. I can't figure it. Maybe those replacement parts (striker release, trigger sear, and 3 springs) fixed it. But, I have my doubts. If ya'll think of anything I haven't tried please suggest what you might try. I very much appreciate the feedback. I'll continue to add updates at they come. TY
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For reference these photos show the pieces I replaced and the area that I believe to be the problem. They may help to jog your memory of how you solved the problem. Talk soon, thanks
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OK... Watch this video and he will take you to trigger a sear jam and loos screws on the hammer. Doublecheck this video against your install.
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The arrow in this picture indicates the metal plug with the groove cut all the way around it. There's a notch in the trigger group safety plate that the plug fits into. Somehow the plug is over traveling by a micro mm to slide under the striker release sear that is directly to the right side of the arrow. you would think the notch in the plate would prevent it from over traveling but I have inspected both pieces and cannot determine how it is happening. I see no irregular wear that would allow it. Just food for thought. Any advice is appreciated, thanks
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That's the guy I've been talking to. He originally told me he completely removed it. But, later he said it continues to have issues due to his striker sear plate being bent. But, thanks for the info. We're on the right track.
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