It's gonna be a long one! But what I got, and how I'm going to fix it. Without loosing on this excellent buy, without loosing money on it.
Well my find for the as new, mint, 36 has stumbled a bit. I got the Vortek kit, and after installing it, mounted a scope and proceeded to check my results.
Very inconsistent results, but good speed and consistent with under 12 fps spreads with the new spring kit and seal. But accuracy is worse than any springer I own.
Well trying to find the culprit, I noticed lateral movement in the action when I cock it. About a 3/8" rearward when I cock it. So I checked and yes, I can move it front to back.
So I try and tighten the action screws, but all are tight. So I count the treads as I take the rear screw out.and after removal, I find it was not bottomed out?
The front screws I could see had slop in the holes. But how could it move as tight as all three were?
Well not visible but there is a lateral Crack, running full length from center of the forarm cutout for the cocking linkage, to the cutout for the trigger slot.
I had to look close with a magnifier to see it in the inside of the stock, and could only be sure it was a Crack at the action screw hole by placing a Philips screwdriver in the hole and prying it open. That appeared to be just a partial Crack centered at that hole?
Well trying to run some good hot super glue, working it down into the Crack. Prying and puddeling, working the Crack open and close with it bubbling down into the material. I was finally happy that I had worked enough down deep into the Crack and used a spanner clamp to to lightly compress it.
Well with this soft Jared wood clamp on, I turned it upside down in my craddel to cure. THATS WHEN IT HIT! My mint like new stock had a Crack all the way through the forearm from linkage cutout to trigger cutout. Barely visible, but losses the clamp, and impossible with a magnifier to see any sign of a Crack!
THE CURE?
Well after talking to my gunsmith that builds stocks and my centerfire target rifles, as well as running it by John Thomas, who has delt with this situation. I've decided to do a fix, and save the as new look of the stock. Not affecting the cosmetics in any way!
We will mill the center of the stock, from trigger cutout, to cocking cutout, a 1" slot. Then epoxy pins, 3 on each side of the cutout, to stick 1/4" into the slot on each side once in place.
Then we will use an aluminum bedding block v'd for the action and trigger to set in. The block will be grooved for the bedding pins to slide down over, and have grooves for the Devcon Epoxy to set to.
This won't be tha expensive, and will be noticed when the rifle is back together.
I think explains how I was able to buy this rifle for what I gave for it. Most of the work I will do. My smith will mill the Grove leaving all wood below the trigger guard cutout, as well as the sides. The pins will be .175" thick and .375" deep flat stock that will extend into milled cutouts in the block to slide down over them.
It should be stronger than ever, and if the accuracy doesn't impress. Well I'll put my 34 T05 that's tuned in this beautiful stock. And put the T01 36 in its stock, and part ways. The will interchange with a slight enlargement to the front of trigger hole slot to accept the T01 trigger into the 34 stock,,, already checked that.
But this removes I stole to, having about what it was worth in it. But hey, it's a like new 36 T01, and that's what I wanted when I bought it.
So a lesson to be learned! When buying used, be carefully how much you pay! These guns can carry ghosts we don't see, even in person!
Well my find for the as new, mint, 36 has stumbled a bit. I got the Vortek kit, and after installing it, mounted a scope and proceeded to check my results.
Very inconsistent results, but good speed and consistent with under 12 fps spreads with the new spring kit and seal. But accuracy is worse than any springer I own.
Well trying to find the culprit, I noticed lateral movement in the action when I cock it. About a 3/8" rearward when I cock it. So I checked and yes, I can move it front to back.
So I try and tighten the action screws, but all are tight. So I count the treads as I take the rear screw out.and after removal, I find it was not bottomed out?
The front screws I could see had slop in the holes. But how could it move as tight as all three were?
Well not visible but there is a lateral Crack, running full length from center of the forarm cutout for the cocking linkage, to the cutout for the trigger slot.
I had to look close with a magnifier to see it in the inside of the stock, and could only be sure it was a Crack at the action screw hole by placing a Philips screwdriver in the hole and prying it open. That appeared to be just a partial Crack centered at that hole?
Well trying to run some good hot super glue, working it down into the Crack. Prying and puddeling, working the Crack open and close with it bubbling down into the material. I was finally happy that I had worked enough down deep into the Crack and used a spanner clamp to to lightly compress it.
Well with this soft Jared wood clamp on, I turned it upside down in my craddel to cure. THATS WHEN IT HIT! My mint like new stock had a Crack all the way through the forearm from linkage cutout to trigger cutout. Barely visible, but losses the clamp, and impossible with a magnifier to see any sign of a Crack!
THE CURE?
Well after talking to my gunsmith that builds stocks and my centerfire target rifles, as well as running it by John Thomas, who has delt with this situation. I've decided to do a fix, and save the as new look of the stock. Not affecting the cosmetics in any way!
We will mill the center of the stock, from trigger cutout, to cocking cutout, a 1" slot. Then epoxy pins, 3 on each side of the cutout, to stick 1/4" into the slot on each side once in place.
Then we will use an aluminum bedding block v'd for the action and trigger to set in. The block will be grooved for the bedding pins to slide down over, and have grooves for the Devcon Epoxy to set to.
This won't be tha expensive, and will be noticed when the rifle is back together.
I think explains how I was able to buy this rifle for what I gave for it. Most of the work I will do. My smith will mill the Grove leaving all wood below the trigger guard cutout, as well as the sides. The pins will be .175" thick and .375" deep flat stock that will extend into milled cutouts in the block to slide down over them.
It should be stronger than ever, and if the accuracy doesn't impress. Well I'll put my 34 T05 that's tuned in this beautiful stock. And put the T01 36 in its stock, and part ways. The will interchange with a slight enlargement to the front of trigger hole slot to accept the T01 trigger into the 34 stock,,, already checked that.
But this removes I stole to, having about what it was worth in it. But hey, it's a like new 36 T01, and that's what I wanted when I bought it.
So a lesson to be learned! When buying used, be carefully how much you pay! These guns can carry ghosts we don't see, even in person!