The Daystate LC110 Compressor report

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Centercut

Centercut

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Jun 9, 2017
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Starting a Daystate compressor report area of the AGN web site. I started with a small Yong Heng style compressor, then my "Centercut Special" Tuxing two cylinder compressor, and now this 3 stage Daystate 110 vac compressor I bought used here on AGN. So far it has about 5.5 hours run time, is smooth, quiet, and tops off a 45 minute SCBA tank from 3200 to 4500 psi in about ten minutes. I added a "gold" filter to the outlet with Zeolite 13X sandwiched by one inch cotton tampon. I also added a 5 inch section of cotton tampon inside the aluminum housing under the pressure gage where the condensation is vented off. It doesn't go all the way to the bottom nor does it cover any inlet or outlet ports. More to follow, plus some photos of my minor modifications...

Feel free to post on this section with your Daystate LC110 experiences, both good and bad. Thanks!
 
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I've got one and I'd rate it at about a 7 out of 10. It's pretty slow getting the last ten percent into the tank. (I may have a leak some place in my setup) I don't have anything to compare it with and perhaps we should take some measurements of time fill and do a little bit of a scientific evaluation. For the money I expected a little more. It get pretty hot and I'm wondering how long it will hold up. I know you don't get to 300 plus bar without effort.
 
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Congrats Mike, I didn't realize you'd picked up a LC110. I have the same compressor, 4-stage version with about 2 hrs run time so far. Same experience... smooth, quiet and fast.

Since the issues of reliability and longevity have been raised in other threads, I just wanted to share something I came across. When I first received mine, I spent a lot of time reading in dive forums because I was researching filtration and whatnot. One thread I was reading caught my attention so here's the quote:

"Rust and corrosion form when the system is not purged and run without pressure to cool and eliminate moisture. There are two main causes of compressor malfunctions --
1st is not running the compressor with no load after filling at high pressure to cool the cylinders and drain the high pressure water saturated air.
2nd Is not running the compressor at least once a month to warm it up and keep it lubricated and "putting it away hot"
Corrosion and oxidation occur when you don't use the compressor enough. I have had compressors run over 2000 hours with only oil changes every 75-100 hours, but they were run 10 to 20 hours every week.
Take a shot guys!!!
Jim Shelden "

I also read posts in those forums by guys who bought used compressors that had sat for months on end without use and ended up having to do minor rebuilds. Since reading the former, I changed my method of filling my tanks. At 4400-4500psi, I close the tank valve, open the purge valve on the tower and let it run at least 2-3 minutes with no load. Like a cool down walk after a 3 mile jog, then shut it off. I also turn it on and run it at least every 2 weeks, even if I don't need to fill my tank. I just fire it up and run it with no load for about 5 minutes, just to get the compressor oil flowing through all the guts. 

I'm sure many here already know this but for me it was news and rings of common sense so I'm tossing it out there.

cheers








 
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So have had a REALLY crappy compressor experience so far.. 

First, like @Centercut, I got a Yong Heng. Ordered it off amazon and it showed up absolutely no doubt used. It was full of oil and had spilled it all over when shipped. It had a lot of indication of being used before I got it, including the box. I sent it back to amazon for a refund.

I promptly went out and did more research and figured the Air Venturi was a good buy, but the Hatsan was about the same thing and had other stuff I wanted (auto purge and auto stop) and so I ordered it. It showed up with broken parts from shipping (not hatsan's fault at all) and then had problems starting up.. as well as a few other bent or dinged parts. I don't get how it happened as it was packed well in a box and then had a wood frame around it. Sent it back and Hatsan is currently refunding me for that one.

I then ordered an Omega Turbo Charger from AoA and it showed up last week. The box looked like it had been dropped out of the plane on the runway while the plane was moving. Something bad happened thats for sure... I opened it up and it was a mess. Missing the bag of parts including all the additives and the whip etc. The styrofoam was broken apart and missing from the bottom, so the feet had all broken through and were either missing wheels or bent to crap. I packed it back up and informed AoA that I was not accepting it. They were awesome and said they would ship me a new one right away....

When I first started looking at compressors, I talked to Centercut about it and he said based on his experience he wished he had skipped right to the Daystate 110 and suggested I do that. I didn't think I would want to spend the money on it, but after all of this stuff happening, what could it hurt to try it. AoA was gracious enough to change my order to the Daystate 110 and shipped it out today I believe.

So I am really REALLY hoping for a good experience on this one....
 
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Its pretty obvious that at the price a DayState commands (or any compressor for that matter) that incorporating a very effective upstream dryer is a necessity. As an instrument tech we used various upstream air drier products on our zero (pure) air supply compressors like Drierite or SilicaGel canisters until we got turned onto the molecular sieve. Are there aftermarket options available for the Daystate that incorporate a molecular sieve? Any names for future reference would be appreciated.
 
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I’ve got a question about the daystate 110 hopefully one of you guys can answer. What kind of amps are they drawing through out the airing up phase of a bigger tank, ie a 98cf? I suppose what I’m really asking is what size of breaker your using 20A or 30A. I thought I read somewhere on here that it took a 30A breaker. I’m assuming, and you know what that will get you, that it will have to be a dedicated compressor only circuit. I’m not an electrician but know the basics, garage hasn’t burned down yet!! Thanks, as I’m considering one myself down the road.
 
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The label on mine (4 stage) reads 15 amps.



1540275119_7067310905bcebbaf899a46.99566626_1537839667_19897632055ba99233ec3117.33436624_Motor...jpg


I'm not sure what the wiring in my garage is rated but no problems filling my 75cf tank except for one time it kicked off after the GFCI receptacle tripped. That was a super hot, humid summer day so maybe the heat raised the resistance in the wiring just enough to put it over the limit. No more problems since then.

edit: guess I should add that I have 15amp breakers on the 110v lines and 30amp on my 220v. Strange, it happened right at almost 4500psi on the fill. I was actually reaching to close the valve on the tank when it tripped.
 
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If you run the compressor at no load the motor might pull say 8 amps but the closer you get to 4500 psi the amps will increase to the 15.2 amps rated on motor tag. If breaker rated at 15 amps it will trip. In newer houses it is code for washing machine to be on a dedicated circuit rated at 20 amps. This may be inconvenient but you want have to run a new circuit. If you want to run a circuit #12 wire with a 20 amp breaker. The rule for breaker ratings is load in Amps x 125% = breaker amp rating. You size wire accordingly. Number 12 wire is good for 25 or 30 amps depending on wire coating materials.

15.2A x 1.25 = 19 A. Hope this helps , Metalmaniac

Rated. Breaker Needed
 
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I had to run a separate circuit for a sump pump that drew 18 amps just for a brief period when it kicked on then dropped back down. I used number 12 on a 20 amp breaker and have had no issues. I was just curious about these compressors as I thought it might draw more than a sump pump. Thanks for the feedback and Cohan for the pic of the tag, that’s what I really needed in hindsight.
 
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