FX The Dreamline Lite .30cal is finally here- and i have some questions, please help!

Hi guys

its finally here.. i put it together- meaning back to its original power instead of 5.5fpe because i was in holland and could do that legally..

anyhow- i changed the port dial wheel, added the hammer weight (there was none-just a piece of plastic tubing :LOL: ) and cranked up the reg to 110 from the restricted 60bar..

but one thing was there that i did not use because there is no use for it in my DL..

its this black endcap that you see on this guy video- he even explains that its to put a tension or preload on his spring..

well- i have the tensioner with a dial (hammer power wheel) to put tension on the spring so i can not put this black endcap (with torx hole inside) because that's where my tensioner goes through ..

so, what's the deal with this endcap- i think the fx puts it in the high original power kit if i want to get rid of the hammer power adjuster and just cap the spring manually for tension or what is it for??

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here is mine before i changed the parts..

and here is how she shoots- just one shot, only 110bar on the reg and 130bar in the cylinder, power wheel on 15, spring tension high, 45gr pellet going 718fps which gives around 50pfe or 69j- is that ok?

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the end cap is the original hammer spring tension nut.

the wheel version is different.


718 is low.

110 is low for .30cal

My .25 is at 131 and getting 880 with 34GR heavies, 925 with 30gr slugs.

You're going to want to be at 135-140 minimum for that caliber. the fine tuning screw is going to need to be adjusted as the pressure is increased as well.
 
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the end cap is the original hammer spring tension nut.

the wheel version is different.


718 is low.

110 is low for .30cal

My .25 is at 131 and getting 880 with 34GR heavies, 925 with 30gr slugs.

You're going to want to be at 135-140 minimum for that caliber. the fine tuning screw is going to need to be adjusted as the pressure is increased as well.
fine tuning screw- you mean that little tinny screw which i screwed out with a 1.5 or 2mm allen key?

i screwed it out but perhaps too much because i could not turn my power wheel so i backed it up till i was able to go up to 23 on my wheel..

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fine tuning screw- you mean that little tinny screw which i screwed out with a 1.5 or 2mm allen key?

i screwed it out but perhaps too much because i could not turn my power wheel so i backed it up till i was able to go up to 23 on my wheel..

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Thats it, but its best to adjust it IN place. you cannot just pick a position off the gun and put it in. This is a balancing act of the gun, Spring tension and pressure, Its setting is relative to the guns settings.
 
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Thats it, but its best to adjust it IN place. you cannot just pick a position off the gun and put it in. This is a balancing act of the gun, Spring tension and pressure, Its setting is relative to the guns settings.
yes- i hear you and i will do it only inside the gun..

i must learn a lot but today i learned how to change the air port wheel and installed a hammer weight so thats making me happy..

the gun is simple, i will learn how to tune it thanks to your help and others!
 
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Help me please!

you know i was getting 718fps with my 45gr jsb which was around 51fpe with reg at 110 and power wheel on 15- ok, you said it was low and i agreed because i too wanted to get the most out of it and then i could always back up to make it precise with less power... but first i wanted to get the most fpe..

so far so good..

that was right out the box.. but now i put the big 700cc bottle and the new bottle adapter (with new regulator inside it) and even an extra 17cc power plenum in front of it..

then today i went and
1.cranked the power from 0 (did not have the 110 from Friday because i needed to degas to change the bottle) all the way up to 160 on the reg
2. cranked up the power wheel to 23
3. cranked up the tension on the spring with allen key till i got the highest fps and wasn't able to turn the wheel any more so i backed off a little so i could turn the power wheel again and lost only maybe 20fps but-

after all this cranking up done in steps 1,2, and 3- i ONLY got 716fps!
what is going on??

that's even less then i got on Friday without the bottle, bottle adapter and extra plenum :mad:

1. is it the extra plenum? i saw videos that it brings 20-40fps more, but never less or at least all stays the same with or without

2. is it because i did not do it in small increments but just cranked up the power on the reg from 0 immediately to 160 bar and then cranked up the power wheel to 23 max and then just played with the tension on the spring via the allen tool

i just made that photo bigger of my gun where you typed over some text- i did not see it till just now, after i shot it..
and noticed that you write to do the cranking up of the reg and tensioning the spring in small increments- well, i did not know and didn't do it in small increments today- i just went ALL the way up at once..
but what difference could it make- small increments or all the way up in one increment- max is max... whether i get there in steps or in one big step- i still got there.. or did i block the reg or what?

3. is it maybe the hammer weight being to light- it was in the package extra on the side (you know its a german 5.5fpe version s it came without the hammer weight- but i put it in, it is the original hammer from fx- they included in the sale if one decides to open the gun to original specs) but that i could always take out and measure the weight for you to compare.. but i am pretty sure it is what it should be- since its the original hammer from fx..

4. from the 716fps at 160bar it just went south as i lessened the tension on the cranked up tensioning screw (being all the time at power setting 23)..

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You need to first zero out the small. Move the power wheel to a starting point. I use max many use 13 as well. Do not work up the pressure right away.. start at 130, then youre going to work up the 1.5 from being very low, half turn or so at a time. Shoot, see what you've got, if it's low... Increment the 1.5 up. Eventually you're going to reach a velocity and it will start dropping if you go further OR it may just no longer rise .. this means you've reached the "sweet spot" or balance point in hammer spring tension for THAT Specific regulator pressure. Next thing you do, you increment the regulator pressure UP maybe 5 maybe 10 bar, your next shot will be LOWER velocity. Because your hammer stroke isn't opening the valve up... Because the valve is now under more pressure... So now you increment up the 1.5mm a little, little by little until you reach a velocity and it will either drop if you turn further... So you're going to slowly, incrementally do this balancing act until you reach a velocity you're happy with. Do not just arbitrarily choose a pressure and screw the 1.5 in all the way... Because your high is not likely going to be 1.5 screwed in all the way and 160bar. You will find it. 160 is as high as you ever want to bring that specific amp regulator per the manual.
 
You need to first zero out the small. Move the power wheel to a starting point. I use max many use 13 as well. Do not work up the pressure right away.. start at 130, then youre going to work up the 1.5 from being very low, half turn or so at a time. Shoot, see what you've got, if it's low... Increment the 1.5 up. Eventually you're going to reach a velocity and it will start dropping if you go further OR it may just no longer rise .. this means you've reached the "sweet spot" or balance point in hammer spring tension for THAT Specific regulator pressure. Next thing you do, you increment the regulator pressure UP maybe 5 maybe 10 bar, your next shot will be LOWER velocity. Because your hammer stroke isn't opening the valve up... Because the valve is now under more pressure... So now you increment up the 1.5mm a little, little by little until you reach a velocity and it will either drop if you turn further... So you're going to slowly, incrementally do this balancing act until you reach a velocity you're happy with. Do not just arbitrarily choose a pressure and screw the 1.5 in all the way... Because your high is not likely going to be 1.5 screwed in all the way and 160bar. You will find it. 160 is as high as you ever want to bring that specific amp regulator per the manual.
so doing the reg in small increments from 130bar and ending up at 23 on the wheel and the 1.5 lets say at 90% and reg lets say at 160(giving me the most out of this tune)

cannot be done by just

going up to 160 reg and power wheel 23 and the 1.5 at 90%- but all in just one big step?

why wouldnt work just in one step- is something getting jammed or what? i don't get it..
 
so doing the reg in small increments from 130bar and ending up at 23 on the wheel and the 1.5 lets say at 90% and reg lets say at 160(giving me the most out of this tune)

cannot be done by just

going up to 160 reg and power wheel 23 and the 1.5 at 90%- but all in just one big step?

why wouldnt work just in one step- is something getting jammed or what? i don't get it..


No. Because the % of hammer spring tension on that 1.5mm spring at 160bar isn't gonna be your max necessarily.

I found on mine. That i reach peak velocity at about 75% spring at 137. I'm saying there is no set parameters for every gun. You're gonna hunt it. I guarantee if you dropped reg pressure 5bar, touching nothing else your velocity would probably rise. But you'd be over gassing the piss out of your gun.

You're best tuning from 1 wheel position. Choose that and work from that wheel. You CAN Get to 840-850fps at almost any wheel setting. You'd compensate with the 1.5 up and down. I work from 23 On the wheel and reduce the setting once I reach my goal velocity +5%
 
No. Because the % of hammer spring tension on that 1.5mm spring at 160bar isn't gonna be your max necessarily.

I found on mine. That i reach peak velocity at about 75% spring at 137. I'm saying there is no set parameters for every gun. You're gonna hunt it. I guarantee if you dropped reg pressure 5bar, touching nothing else your velocity would probably rise. But you'd be over gassing the piss out of your gun.

You're best tuning from 1 wheel position. Choose that and work from that wheel. You CAN Get to 840-850fps at almost any wheel setting. You'd compensate with the 1.5 up and down. I work from 23 On the wheel and reduce the setting once I reach my goal velocity +5%
1. so should i start with 1 on the wheel (and min tension on 1.5) or at 23 on power wheel and min tension on 1.5?
2. how do i drop the reg pressure- turn clockwise and shoot few empty shoots till it stops dropping? i don't want to break something
 
1. so should i start with 1 on the wheel (and min tension on 1.5) or at 23 on power wheel and min tension on 1.5?
2. how do i drop the reg pressure- turn clockwise and shoot few empty shoots till it stops dropping? i don't want to break something


Just put the wheel on 23. Set the 1.5 low. And yes drop the reg in tiny increments. Shoot 2 or 3 times then repeat
 
Right now you're trying to find the place the 1.5 starts climbing and reaches the plateau at 130bar. Once you've hit peak for that reg pressure. Back down on the 1.5 a ¼ turn or so then, raise the reg 5 or 7 bar. Your velocity will be lower . Then use the 1.5n to compensate. On so on
 
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Just put the wheel on 23. Set the 1.5 low. And yes drop the reg in tiny increments. Shoot 2 or 3 times then repeat
ok- will do... need to get my ass up and drive to shop again :ROFLMAO: but glad to do it because this doesnt let me stop thinking that there is something wrong with my gun

so is there a logical explanation to why going up in small increments to lets say setting 10 is not the same as going to that same end setting of 10 in just one big move? does something get blocked- the valve or the hammer or the spring?
 
it doesn't work

i was on 130bar reg and 23 power wheel and tension low..

so i turned the tension all the way up till the 1.5 could not go any further- the fps stopped increasing at 766fps

so i dropped the tension quarter turn and increased the reg pressure to 137-140... the speed was still 766fps so i wanted to add 1.5 tension but the tensioner 1.5 is already maxed out from the previous step with 130bar..

so how am i supposed to keep cranking up the tensioner 1.5 when its already maxed out in the first step with 130bar??

it makes no sense, there is no more 1.5 thread left

maybe my hammer weight is too small??

i get same results with 110 bar at power 23 and tension max

as
with 150bar at power 23 and tension maxed
 
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it doesn't work

i was on 130bar reg and 23 power wheel and tension low..

so i turned the tension all the way up till the 1.5 could not go any further- the fps stopped increasing at 766fps

so i dropped the tension quarter turn and increased the reg pressure to 137-140... the speed was still 766fps so i wanted to add 1.5 tension but the tensioner 1.5 is already maxed out from the previous step with 130bar..

so how am i supposed to keep cranking up the tensioner 1.5 when its already maxed out in the first step with 130bar??

it makes no sense, there is no more 1.5 thread left
Dude. I told you. Once the fps stops rising. STOP Increasing the 1.5. At that point. RAISE THE PRESSURE 5-7 BAR. it did work. As your velocity at 160 with full 1.5 was 716. NOW YOURE AT 766 at 130
 
130 is the STARTING POINT. You cannot just magically make 130 produce more once the 1.5 HS screw stops producing results. I've explained it several times over. Brother. You've gained 50fps and you're only at 130.


130 is the starting point.

I told you in 2 or 3 messages that once you've reached 130 and the adjustments of the 1.5 screw either stops increasing or stops dropping to back that screw off a tiny bit and Increase pressure another 5-7 bar and then start increasing the 1.5 screw again until again, the velocity stops rising or drops. Then Increase again. If you just set the screw high and the pressure at an arbitrary higher pressure you're not going to have the hammer spring and valve balanced and you'll as you've seen have Jack poop velocity at high pressure