The final 3d printed Technical stock for my Altaros M24???

[rodjava]

I have been playing around with different 3d printed designs for a technical stock for my Altaros M24. I only shoot benchrest at 200 yards.

I also 3d printed the co-axial front rest that works great! Now I have to only decide on the right filament for the actual stock. ASA, PETG, ABS or some type of carbon or nylon engineering filament?

Needless to say, I love my Bambu X1c printer and have no problem printing different prototypes. My new printer, Anycubic Kobra 3 max will print the stock in 2 pieces instead of 3 pieces on the X1c as it will have a 500mm z height instead of the X1c of 256mm.

There are four 1/4 stainless steel metal rods built into the stock to make the stock strong and sturdy.

Enjoy

Rod in San Francisco

 

[RaidPoncho]

That’s a sick build my guy

 

[rodjava]

That’s a sick build my guy

Thanks bro

 

[cosmic]

Savvy engineering !!! Must be light...

 

[rodjava]

Savvy engineering !!! Must be light...

Actually, I designed the stock to be heavy with the 4 .250 stainless steel support rods. I mainly shoot bench rest at 200 yards

 

[WOW]

I have been playing around with different 3d printed designs for a technical stock for my Altaros M24. I only shoot benchrest at 200 yards.

I also 3d printed the co-axial front rest that works great! Now I have to only decide on the right filament for the actual stock. ASA, PETG, ABS or some type of carbon or nylon engineering filament?

Needless to say, I love my Bambu X1c printer and have no problem printing different prototypes. My new printer, Anycubic Kobra 3 max will print the stock in 2 pieces instead of 3 pieces on the X1c as it will have a 500mm z height instead of the X1c of 256mm.

There are four 1/4 stainless steel metal rods built into the stock to make the stock strong and sturdy.

Enjoy

Rod in San Francisco

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I can vouch for PETGCF, high temp stuff that uses tempered nozzles, but would highly advise annealing in an oven. I wouldn't push for it unless annealed, as I find the layers don't bind well alone and I can peel them apart after some time. A fracture becomes an accordion if not annealed, particularly at overhangs. Overall, tho, the CFPETG has the best feel and a well made 3D is closest to a machined part. That's my opinion but I do have experience. If you're getting stellar prints, up your game w petgcf.

 

[rodjava]

I can vouch for PETGCF, high temp stuff that uses tempered nozzles, but would highly advise annealing in an oven. I wouldn't push for it unless annealed, as I find the layers don't bind well alone and I can peel them apart after some time. A fracture becomes an accordion if not annealed, particularly at overhangs. Overall, tho, the CFPETG has the best feel and a well made 3D is closest to a machined part. That's my opinion but I do have experience. If you're getting stellar prints, up your game w petgcf.

Hi Wow,
Thanks for chiming in. Yes, PETGCF is a great filament. I'm going to try some Polymaker PA612-CF carbon fiber nylon filament for my next stock prints. I did order some PETFCF on Amazon which I will also try out.

 

[WOW]

Hi Wow,
Thanks for chiming in. Yes, PETGCF is a great filament. I'm going to try some Polymaker PA612-CF carbon fiber nylon filament for my next stock prints. I did order some PETFCF on Amazon which I will also try out.

I hear nylon is legit, curious how they compare.
I would try different brands of CF stuff. Most definitely. I think I may have VOLOX petgcf from Amazon and would prefer something higher quality. When you're talking about extruding filaments with carbon "fiber" powder in plastics not true carbon FIBER strands, the recipe and methodology matter quite a bit. There are some filament superstores in Colorado, I would honestly just give one a call and bug em about it for your final piece if done in a CF. You'll need new printer tips, i got a cheap set and would prolly upgrade based on having to change them out more frequently due to clogs. CF can be a real B.

 

[TN_Yankee]

I can't speak directly for their CF variants, but Atomic Filament makes great stuff, here in the USA. https://atomicfilament.com/collecti...?sort_by=manual&filter.p.m.custom.color=Black

How do you insert the rods into your prints?

 

[rodjava]

I can't speak directly for their CF variants, but Atomic Filament makes great stuff, here in the USA. https://atomicfilament.com/collecti...?sort_by=manual&filter.p.m.custom.color=Black

How do you insert the rods into your prints?

By design, the stock was printed in 3 parts with Fusion 360. The .250 stainless rods are inserted while the parts are being glued together. Hence locking all 3 parts together.

BTW, I'm willing to give my Fusion 360 files to any AGN member for free. However, my scattered brain and the way I design parts in Fusion may be difficult for some to read and understand. You will be on your own to figure it out.