Other The IZH46M Achilles Heel
- Thread starter Frank in Fairfield
- Start date
Well, I tried pm but would not go through ...
I was endowed with some IZH 46 parts a while back and mine is gone now... I finally looked through them today but since you didn't post a pic of the offending part, I'm not sure if it is in this cache... If you post a pic, I can check again.
You're welcome to any of these parts if they would help..
Bob
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Per my friend the high-end gunmaker, he would make a new link from 4140 pre-hardened flat stock, which is available ground to precise thickness (gage stock). He also believes welding to be possible, but would require heat treating to obtain full strength, plus straightening and grinding and just not worth the trouble. The only problem I see is establishing the correct hole to hole distance, although there may be some leeway if there is adjustment for the amount of overtoggle.
I would add that since the break occurred where stress would be expected to be highest, additional material, height or width, should be added to the curved portion if possible. The outside (convex) surface of the curve should also be polished to remove surface flaws (stress risers) that could increase the risk of fatigue failure.
Chuck
I would add that since the break occurred where stress would be expected to be highest, additional material, height or width, should be added to the curved portion if possible. The outside (convex) surface of the curve should also be polished to remove surface flaws (stress risers) that could increase the risk of fatigue failure.
Chuck
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Looks like someone who has a friend in the water jet cutting business needs to do some talking. I would be up for one to put in my spare parts bin depending on cost.
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I've made 2 of these in my time from 3mm steel plate, purchasing a piece of 3/4 x 3mm x 1 Mtr long (min order)
Not for myself but for other high usage target shooters.
Not difficult to craft by hand with a hacksaw and file. Yes working carefully but no great effort as 3mm thick plate is so easy to fashion with a good file. I used medium carbon stuff and took up to cherry red and oil quenched it to black it and found a slight improvement in hardness.
You won't get any hardness from mild steel no matter how much you heat and quench but it would still work fine I should think.
Made from solid as it should of been, the only issue is getting the hole centres right but I just spotted through from the fractured part. I think the OEM part is cast bytheway, which is why they eventually fracture.
However, for me at least, this guns weakness was not its robustness but it looks. Always looked like an ugly thing to me ....so I never purchased one despite the rave reviews.
After years of handling beautiful handy pieces like Webley and Walther pistols it just felt and looked like an agricultral farm implement in my eyes.
Not for myself but for other high usage target shooters.
Not difficult to craft by hand with a hacksaw and file. Yes working carefully but no great effort as 3mm thick plate is so easy to fashion with a good file. I used medium carbon stuff and took up to cherry red and oil quenched it to black it and found a slight improvement in hardness.
You won't get any hardness from mild steel no matter how much you heat and quench but it would still work fine I should think.
Made from solid as it should of been, the only issue is getting the hole centres right but I just spotted through from the fractured part. I think the OEM part is cast bytheway, which is why they eventually fracture.
However, for me at least, this guns weakness was not its robustness but it looks. Always looked like an ugly thing to me ....so I never purchased one despite the rave reviews.
After years of handling beautiful handy pieces like Webley and Walther pistols it just felt and looked like an agricultral farm implement in my eyes.
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Steve, I bought it used(My third) about 7 years ago.
No idea how many shots were fired before me.
Me?
I know it has touched off 27,000 rounds because that is how many 7.0 RWS WC I have purchased and used.
It was due.
My neighbor has the piston and link right now in his welding shop.
I will be 80 in August and if my son doesn’t want the grips for his (My #2 IZZY), they will be sold along with a bunch of o-rings, seals, trigger, sights, e…, if it cannot be welded.
I sent a message to Air Venturi as I know they have the parts but no response yet!
No idea how many shots were fired before me.
Me?
I know it has touched off 27,000 rounds because that is how many 7.0 RWS WC I have purchased and used.
It was due.
My neighbor has the piston and link right now in his welding shop.
I will be 80 in August and if my son doesn’t want the grips for his (My #2 IZZY), they will be sold along with a bunch of o-rings, seals, trigger, sights, e…, if it cannot be welded.
I sent a message to Air Venturi as I know they have the parts but no response yet!
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I wish Air Venturi would respond on this. I would like to buy a spare myself. I don't really want to buy a long piece of stock and have it in my shop. Perhaps, my son might not, mind having it in stock. Then I might hack one out and heat treat it. Be Well Brothers, Bandito.
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i have had no response from AV and i have had only one communication with them years ago and i came away think they where morons
so, there has been some question of the material used for this part
let say the material was not up to the task but how did it start
lets assume that they are making these as cheap as they can but also putting out a nice product
some people say the part was cast but that to my doesn't make much sense and here is why
you would have to take and make the casting blank, pour the casting break out the parts preclean and then you would have to mill two flat sides and all the edges and not leave any marks and the part on my 46m shows none of that
was the part stamped out and then all the edges milled maybe
i don't know but the part breaks because of bad material
in the last couple days i have done a very deep dive into finding any parts anywhere thinking there would be a country that is not in the Russian sanction and found ZERO results
and if these were to be made why not stainless, wrong color who cares
so, there has been some question of the material used for this part
let say the material was not up to the task but how did it start
lets assume that they are making these as cheap as they can but also putting out a nice product
some people say the part was cast but that to my doesn't make much sense and here is why
you would have to take and make the casting blank, pour the casting break out the parts preclean and then you would have to mill two flat sides and all the edges and not leave any marks and the part on my 46m shows none of that
was the part stamped out and then all the edges milled maybe
i don't know but the part breaks because of bad material
in the last couple days i have done a very deep dive into finding any parts anywhere thinking there would be a country that is not in the Russian sanction and found ZERO results
and if these were to be made why not stainless, wrong color who cares
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The fellow next door who will try and weld it says it was stamped but…..it was not heat treated properly and the bend was weakened.
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On the GTA Forum this post attracted the interest of a fellow in the Ukraine.. He made a rough drawing (it is close) of the part. I think if a duplicate could be made, say, CNC, then the original would have to be used as a template.
But, I am just guessing.
My qualifications:::
42 years as an air traffic controller..
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Yeah, simple part. Judging by the fracture I thought it could be cast or sintered. Not even hardened. Surprised you didn't let a 1" belt sander assist. So handy for these jobs and you can even get good little cheap ones. Dykem, scribe the lines, and lay out the holes with a prick punch. Then carve and drill away everything that doesn't look like the original! CNC or water jet? Are we going into production? Just make it. This ain't aerospace tech. Guys that never made anything overthink it. And what are they thinking anyway?
That's not how investment cast works. Or sintered steel. You get good clean accurate parts. Many, many things are manufactured this way. It's most likely sintered steel. Basically, steel powder gets pressed in a die and then baked. Other metals are done this way too.
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If it were mine I would have already had a piece of steel, worked it with hand tools and be done with it. However, I would go in a group buy for some water jet cut pieces because I can be quite lazy.
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