Other The IZH46M Achilles Heel

[Steveoo]

Yeah, simple part. Judging by the fracture I thought it could be cast or sintered. Not even hardened. Surprised you didn't let a 1" belt sander assist. So handy for these jobs and you can even get good little cheap ones. Dykem, scribe the lines, and lay out the holes with a prick punch. Then carve and drill away everything that doesn't look like the original! CNC or water jet? Are we going into production? Just make it. This ain't aerospace tech. Guys that never made anything overthink it. And what are they thinking anyway?

That's not how investment cast works. Or sintered steel. You get good clean accurate parts. Many, many things are manufactured this way. It's most likely sintered steel. Basically, steel powder gets pressed in a die and then baked. Other metals are done this way too.

I hear you reg the use of a Belt Linisher and did use one for a number of years but mine gave up the ghost a while back. Need to get another.
It was still an easy Job. I used a decent Flat file and and a 1" width half round.
The OEM part looked odd. One poster here mentions it being a pressing....maybe but it had a grainy look to me.

The real issue I had was with riveting back to stock appearance. I didn't attempt it.
Forgot to mention I used roll pins from an RS roll pin kit, trimmed to length on grinding wheel, chamfered them and reblued. Crosman 1377 style.
Looked neat and should last.

My take might be ...not so much the material but the massive force this component is expected to take.
Do not forget it's not loads of repeat low pressure pumps like a Crosman pistol similar but one great big force with much bigger mechanical advantage making it not seem so great.
It's interesting that the 2 I did had fractured at the same place on the radius where it was slightly less wide and at the max load point give or take.

 

[marflow 777]

so i messaged an Ebay seller in Poland last night, it was a stab in the dark
he has some Baikal stuff and i asked can you get IZH 46M parts and here is his answer
now you will not know what all that means till we see them nut maybe we could have something with this seller and prices will be what that are
to make that par it would be easier to hand the new part to someone and say how much to make these
now we still have not address the rivet pin in the linkage i looked around but i don't know the correct name of that style pin
all i have i have been putting in my time

compressed steel power i will buy that and makes sense strength of case looks like plate
and with that the material would become easier at 3.96mm or 5/32 plate steel would be fine as a replacement

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New message from: jm_garnizon (2,248)​

Hello, Unfortunately they are temporary out of stock at this moment but we have a supply of these parts at the end of this month. In the new supply we will get: barrels, frames (breech assemblies / systems) wooden handles, pistons, springs, o-rings, levers, covered levers, valves, front sights, rear sights, triggers, trigger's mechanism's, screws, pads, blocking pins, cleaning rods, keys, parts which connects barrel with the lower part. Best regards, Jan​

 

[Michigander]

I agree that except for the hole to hole distance this should be an easy part to make with simple tools. Here is a link to a source for 4142 prehardened alloy steel. Strong, needs no further heat treatment, and at 30 Rc can still be sawn, filed and drilled.

Pardon Our Interruption

 

[marflow 777]

well at the age of 75 i will pass but a plasma table could do the same work in what 15 seconds
now i agree the parts could be made with some common tools
but we all are missing something the front pin rivet how the hell do we overcome that
i would believe it was done in a press at the factory sitting in a fixture
mine is not broken and many are not broken making the bare can be done but if the end user cannot get part A and part B the pin together, the part is useless

 

[beerthief]

If it were mine I would have already had a piece of steel, worked it with hand tools and be done with it. However, I would go in a group buy for some water jet cut pieces because I can be quite lazy.

count me in on a deal if it happens . Can you waterjet SS ? i mean if one is going to have it done ? #2 can the jet put the holes in at the same time ?
Stan in KY .

 

[graycrait]

count me in on a deal if it happens . Can you waterjet SS ? i mean if one is going to have it done ? #2 can the jet put the holes in at the same time ?
Stan in KY .

Stan, I have no earthly clue, But a friend of mine told me that is how it would best be done, barring just making one by hand. I've looked for 46M parts since getting mine and whoever has any isn't advertising them. That is why I am keeping 3 Daisy 7X7s, in case I need parts. I should pick up another 717 just in case. I prefer shooting the Daisys over the 46M anyway. I got the 46M because I thought it was cool and that was before getting a pair of LNIB Daisy 777s. At the time when I got the LNIB 46M with Rink and the Red & Black OEM grips along with all AV 46M bits and pieces including a spare piston cup I thought I got a good deal and still do. But in terms of basement pistol shooting I prefer the Daisy.

Craig

 

[beerthief]

Stan, I have no earthly clue, But a friend of mine told me that is how it would best be done, barring just making one by hand. I've looked for 46M parts since getting mine and whoever has any isn't advertising them. That is why I am keeping 3 Daisy 7X7s, in case I need parts. I should pick up another 717 just in case. I prefer shooting the Daisys over the 46M anyway. I got the 46M because I thought it was cool and that was before getting a pair of LNIB Daisy 777s. At the time when I got the LNIB 46M with Rink and the Red & Black OEM grips along with all AV 46M bits and pieces including a spare piston cup I thought I got a good deal and still do. But in terms of basement pistol shooting I prefer the Daisy.

Craig

I have same pistols and prefer the 46 (a much more solid gun ) I am always afraid the plastic cocking parts will wear out , mainly the bolt .

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

I should have kept my 777 and 747…

 

[graycrait]

I have same pistols and prefer the 46 (a much more solid gun ) I am always afraid the plastic cocking parts will wear out , mainly the bolt .

I know what you mean about that bolt. Every time I pull that Daisy bolt back I wonder if it will be the last time.

Edit: I just ordered 3 more Daisy 717 bolts

 

[Steveoo]

It's an interesting comparison ...The Daisy 717/47/777
Despite a die cast build quality and its plastic bolt, these things have put in tireless performance lasting eons.
Goes to prove that it's not just about solid steel materials but good design also...Yes die cast not the most wonderful material but selected for parts where it's ok to use it while keeping cost down and solid parts where they matter for linkages and pivots...Good design.
Think the Americans were good at this. Affordable guns, well designed to make the best of less than the best of materials. Some of the stuff still functioning perfectly, perhaps pushing 70 yrs old.

 

[marflow 777]

so, the Ebay sell from Poland sent me a new message and he can get the part but his greed ended that source as you can see in the message to me
i would carve one out with a spoon before i paid that price
now on the 717-747 bolt when you open them up put some white grease on them, instead of catch and stumble they slide and work well

Hello, I marked this part on an attached diagram. Please let me know if you look for this part. If yes we should receive this part in the end of this month. Price with an offer on eBay: $186.35 Shipping cost by FedEx courier to Bellevue, WA, USA: $37.25 Total amount to pay: $223.60 If you are interested in it please let me know. Best regards, Jan​

 

[jkingrph]

I think I would get a good piece of steel the correct thickness, then mark and drill holes in proper locations, then start cutting and grinding to the correct configuration/shape.

 

[Motorhead]

Getting the Pin/s out, then replacing with correct hardness and getting them to stay in place w/o damaging anything is the other 1/2 or better of the problem at hand.

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

The linkage was welded….we will see out it works….IF, I can get the bad boy back together..

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

The linkage was welded….we will see out it works….IF, I can get the bad boy back together..

View attachment 554486

View attachment 554487

Operational….Note: I Had to replace the piston seal. For those who have not done this, have patience…and cuss a lot…

 

[marflow 777]

well that is great news Frank i am sorry you were the one to have to go through this but it would seem they can be repaired by welding them
now the interesting part will be for how long
now you are ready to go have some fun

 

[Frank in Fairfield]

I may have to take it apart again. There is something in the compression tube that is preventing the cocking handle to complete the circuit. Maybe excess oil or dirt…If I hold the handle closed, load, close the breech and fire, it is fine. After firing the cocking handle goes into battery where it should be.