N/A The semi-sisters

I have a V1 with almost 10000 rounds through it and no issues. I believe that a V3 is better if you are a leftie.

Regarding mods, it does have quite the bark suppressed and some work much better to quiet it down. I found that an impulse air IA1200 worked best, among commercial offerings, but is pricey. I am currently testing a printed mod from @subscriber which is wickedly quiet and very accurate. Get a few more posts and PM him for info or perhaps he will chime in here.

Others are reporting that the Huben mod works well but I haven’t tried it.

With the IA1200 or subscribers oval mod, I think you’ll be very comfortable in your backyard!
 
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I have to second this recommendation. I just received my Huben GK1 (in .22) and I absolutely love it. The adjustability is mind bending. Easily turned up from low power (12 FPE) up to - so far - 40FPE and everything in between in basically 4 quarter turns of the Allen key. I know I can get it up over 70 FPE wide open with a full pressure tube.

I’ve mounted a red dot on mine and it is a consistent tack driver, with 19 shots on board. The .25 has “only” 17 shots, but even more power! I love my .22 so much that I am seriously considering getting a second one in .25 and setting it up as a very short carbine using one of the many stock attachments (I got the rear Picatinny rail adapter from Moistone (Andrew) here on AGN - his web site is Huben3dpatrs.com).

For the record, I have a number of semi-autos - Leshiy 2, Huben K1, Steyr ProX and Steyr Hunting 5 SA. I love them all, but this GK1 has really opened my eyes.

Chris

I have a V1 with almost 10000 rounds through it and no issues. I believe that a V3 is better if you are a leftie.

Regarding mods, it does have quite the bark suppressed and some work much better to quiet it down. I found that an impulse air IA1200 worked best, among commercial offerings, but is pricey. I am currently testing a printed mod from @subscriber which is wickedly quiet and very accurate. Get a few more posts and PM him for info or perhaps he will chime in here.

Others are reporting that the Huben mod works well but I haven’t tried it.

With the IA1200 or subscribers oval mod, I think you’ll be very comfortable in your backyard!
Huben mod works great! Very very quiet, looks good to my eye, and it's not printed. Can't go with grainy plastic on my guns. Just my 2©.
Have fun
 
Absolutely. It might also be worth considering that if you’re backpacking the pistol, a printed mod is likely more fragile.
I have an opportunity to buy a .25 cal - with the option to add 1/2x20 adapter and “Huggett Mini-Magna Moderator” for an additional $180. Another option I have is to add the “Huggett Snipe” for $205. Should I take one of these deals, or should I just buy a Huben silencer separately?
 
I like everything you have there. I had the Huben and is was always GTG, and very well made. I now have the Sidewinder and so far just as good as the Huben IMO build wise even though I've read others who disagree. But I'm wondering about that L2?
How does it hold up accuracy wise vs the WA Sidewinder or the Huben? Better, worse?
BTW, I had to laugh at the title Semi-Sisters because when I was a kid in a rural little town.. There were a few how you say?...loose girls that got that nickname (among a few others) because they used to hang out at the truck stop on the edge of town and weren't there to just buy a Coke. :sneaky:
 
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I like everything you have there. I had the Huben and is was always GTG, and very well made. I now have the Sidewinder and so far just as good as the Huben IMO build wise even though I've read others who disagree. But I'm wondering about that L2?
How does it hold up accuracy wise vs the WA Sidewinder or the Huben? Better, worse?
BTW, I had to laugh at the title Semi-Sisters because when I was a kid in a rural little town.. There were a few how you say?...loose girls that got that nickname (among a few others) because they used to hang out at the truck stop on the edge of town and weren't there to just buy a Coke. :sneaky:
I don’t have any experience with the Sidewinder, but I do have the Huben K1 and the Edgun Leshiy 2. (Here’s a write up I did comparing my 3 Semi-autos. https://www.airgunnation.com/thread...ns-huben-k1-leshiy-2-and-steyr-pro-x.1094391/). The L2 is a great gun, capable of good power and it handles well. However the trigger is not nearly as good as that of the Huben (either the K1 or the GK1) and it only has a magazine capacity of 8 rounds, regardless of caliber. Now, given that the L2 has a detachable magazine this might not seem to be too much of a problem. However one has to open the action to remove the magazine and that is a pain. The insertion of the mag is also a bit fiddly, so mush so that I do not even bother with that anymore, simply using a speed-loader to load 8 more rounds into the empty mag already inserted. However it really is a bit fiddly.

So, bottom line, Huben has much greater capacity, much better trigger, but, when you have fired your 19 or 17 rounds, reloading takes a bit of time. I think that this would be the great advantage to me of the removable mags in the Rattler/Sidewinder.

By Thew Way, the Huben silencer works perfectly and really does quieter down the bark of the gun. I got mine when I bought the gun from KarzCool. $1400 all in, including the muzzle adapter and the silencer. Quick service and a great guy to deal with.

Chris
 
I am currently testing a printed mod from @subscriber which is wickedly quiet and very accurate.

weevil,

If I remember correctly, you are using the oval muffler with the slanted front end; as shown below? Firstly, for those unfamiliar with the design, the low flat top is to enable the use of the stock open sights on the Huben pistol.

I have attached the STL to this post, so anyone can print it for themselves, or for others. Just note that the part needs to be rotated so the threads are facing up, away from the platen. This orientation is so the internal structures will be self-supporting for printing.

The threads will need chasing with a 1/2-20 tap. Designed with more material to provide a stronger thread for full power use.

If you do not have a printer or a friend with a printer, I recommend you contact forum member @TorqueMaster, as he was part of the team that developed this muffler.

Looking at the cross-section images below you will notice that the wall thickness is quite heavy around the first expansion chamber; then steps down towards the front. This is done for strength where the bulk air pressure and initial air surge impact is the highest - as the projectile uncorks from the muzzle. Then, the bulk pressure drops with each expansion chamber stage towards the front, so the walls can be made thinner, to reduce overall weight of the muffler.

As I have no control over your printer, settings, material type or material quality, there is no warrantee or acceptance of liability expressed or implied. You are free to use the design on your Huben pistol, or not. Now, my Shorty Huben pistol muffler has uniformly thin walls and none have blown up from normal use.

So, the oval muffler shown below should be very robust, assuming it is printed from PETG at 100% infill, as intended; at appropriate settings for nozzle temperature, filament feed, traverse speed, and horizontal and vertical resolution. The use of a "print raft" for platen adhesion is highly recommended. If you need detail print setting recommendations, PM TorqueMaster.





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View attachment Oval Offset Huben Pistol .25 LDC 1.5 x 6.5 inch HALF-20 Thread Version4.zip
 
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I did quite a big number on my L2 recently to give it a job because it was somewhat redundant, so now it’s shooting little 177 slugs very well. The trigger is a limiting factor but also an interesting challenge in technique.

I would say that the K1s are my least favorite these days. The GK1 and the L2 (with an FX barrel) are both more accurate and certainly prettier. The Sidewinder has grown on me in terms of looks and it shoots the 30 cal pellets into the same hole at 50y, and into an inch on full auto! I have a Spitfire prism on it now and it’s a very portable hammer. The issue is noise but @subscriber and I have been working on a fix for several weeks. I’m just printing the first of three mods from him that will be encased in a CF tube and mated to a shroud that dispenses with the bottle clamp (which is tits on a boar, in someone else’s words) in favor of a higher volume shroud. I’ll post a dedicated thread on all this when we’re closer but here’s a sneak peek of the WIP shroud:

IMG_0737.jpeg
 
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The FXing of the L2:

 
weevil,

If I remember correctly, you are using the oval muffler with the slanted front end; as shown below? Firstly, for those unfamiliar with the design, the low flat top is to enable the use of the stock open sights on the Huben pistol.

I have attached the STL to this post, so anyone can print it for themselves, or for others. Just note that the part needs to be rotated so the threads are facing up, away from the platen. This orientation is so the internal structures will be self-supporting for printing.

The threads will need chasing with a 1/2-20 tap. Designed with more material to provide a stronger thread for full power use.

If you do not have a printer or a friend with a printer, I recommend you contact forum member @TorqueMaster, as he was part of the team that developed this muffler.

Looking at the cross-section images below you will notice that the wall thickness is quite heavy around the first expansion chamber; then steps down towards the front. This is done for strength where the bulk air pressure and initial air surge impact is the highest - as the projectile uncorks from the muzzle. Then, the bulk pressure drops with each expansion chamber stage towards the front, so the walls can be made thinner, to reduce overall weight of the muffler.

As I have no control over your printer, settings, material type or material quality, there is no warrantee or acceptance of liability expressed or implied. You are free to use the design on your Huben pistol, or not. Now, my Shorty Huben pistol muffler has uniformly thin walls and none have blown up from normal use.

So, the oval muffler shown below should be very robust, assuming it is printed from PETG at 100% infill, as intended; at appropriate settings for nozzle temperature, filament feed, traverse speed, and horizontal and vertical resolution. The use of a "print raft" for platen adhesion is highly recommended. If you need detail print setting recommendations, PM TorqueMaster.





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Yes, that one is currently on the GK1. Highly recommended.

Feel free to post a SW STL pic, but I think that we should have a thread, and I need 3 days to print the designs. The first one is printing right now and is that latest design.
 
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I don’t have any experience with the Sidewinder, but I do have the Huben K1 and the Edgun Leshiy 2. (Here’s a write up I did comparing my 3 Semi-autos. https://www.airgunnation.com/thread...ns-huben-k1-leshiy-2-and-steyr-pro-x.1094391/). The L2 is a great gun, capable of good power and it handles well. However the trigger is not nearly as good as that of the Huben (either the K1 or the GK1) and it only has a magazine capacity of 8 rounds, regardless of caliber. Now, given that the L2 has a detachable magazine this might not seem to be too much of a problem. However one has to open the action to remove the magazine and that is a pain. The insertion of the mag is also a bit fiddly, so mush so that I do not even bother with that anymore, simply using a speed-loader to load 8 more rounds into the empty mag already inserted. However it really is a bit fiddly.

So, bottom line, Huben has much greater capacity, much better trigger, but, when you have fired your 19 or 17 rounds, reloading takes a bit of time. I think that this would be the great advantage to me of the removable mags in the Rattler/Sidewinder.

By Thew Way, the Huben silencer works perfectly and really does quieter down the bark of the gun. I got mine when I bought the gun from KarzCool. $1400 all in, including the muzzle adapter and the silencer. Quick service and a great guy to deal with.

Chris
I don’t see the mag on the SW as advantageous unless you buy several (they’re titanium and $170 each 😳). Removing and installing is a bit of a pain as they have to be rotated into position and then released a little to get them clamped in. They also have a magnetic cover to put on like the L2. It’s sixes for me.
 
I'll add that I have both a Sidewinder and a Huben K1 in .22, and I have two mags for the Sidewinder. I find in practice that the removable mags of the Sidewinder do not lead to faster loading vs. the Huben - it takes about the same amount of time to feed the pellets into the slots. Additionally, the mags for the Sidewinder are a tight fit and are gear driven, so they are fussier to swap than most mag fed guns - it is not something that I can do "blind" like with my Air Ranger and Marauders.

The removable mag IS a great feature if you take the gun to ranges as it is easy to prove safe, where you can't really do it with the Huben. But for all else I really don't see an advantage - once you are used to the Huben it is a breeze to load and shoot. Also, the Sidewinder action is a lot louder, and I think part of that is that the mag advancement stuff is all exposed where the Huben buries it inside the magazine.
 
Is the Huben GK1 hammerless?

I understand the Huben GK1 is not regulated. Does anyone know if it remains relatively consistent (accurate) from shot to shot while air is stil plentiful?
Do you think a GK1 will be as reliable as a “Sidewinder S Compact”? In other words, which one will hold up better over time with less maintenance needed?
 
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Is the Huben GK1 hammerless?

I understand the Huben GK1 is not regulated. Does anyone know if it remains relatively consistent (accurate) from shot to shot while air is stil plentiful?
Do you think a GK1 will be as reliable as a “Sidewinder S Compact”? In other words, which one will hold up better over time with less maintenance needed?
Take a look at the air pistol forum here on Airgun Nation and you will see that the GK1 is incredibly accurate, many people have shot over 10,000 rounds as this pistol is reliable and crazy fun to shoot. Yes it is hammerless and no need for a regulator as the design provides very stable shot strings. This action is the same as the K1 which as been out for a long longer time than most other semi-autos. Check out this thread, https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/gk1-25-tuning-for-altaros-jsb-charts-and-data.1305578/

I can attest without trying to find the ideal perfect setting I am getting similar results shooting my GK1 at about 815 FPS and getting well over one full mag of 17 shots but more like 2 mags with very little deviation. This gun is so addictive to shoot that there are ample people posting insane MOA's at 50 to over 100 yards with this pistol and crazy amount of shots with reliable results so there is not need for more time, this thing is the game changer for air pistols. It is almost laughable as I know die hard spring pistol owners, and owners of many older guns try to flutily create posts as the GK1 has leap frogged all others out there. This pistol puts down 70-81 foot pounds, semi auto, can plink cans at 100 yards, and you can tune it down to moderate levels like 750-900 fps and get flat strings; that puts all other pistols into the dust...... mic drop for the Huben GK1
 
Do you think it’s worth getting the “regulated” version of the GK1 from Europe? Will it significantly take away from the power capabilities?
I advised another user not to get the regged version for that reason (very small plenum). He reported on some “issues” that were then apparently fixed. I asked him how it was working at higher power and it was crickets. So, we still need a volunteer. As I pointed out to you elsewhere, all other answers including sets of string data with different pellets are posted on this forum. Please do your own homework.
 
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