The Stoeger MX1 Bullsharks are here
- Thread starter jjohnsonlta
- Start date
Which caliber?
How did you quantify this pressure to be so certain? What instrumentation did you use?
I based mine off a chrono graph velocity drop and the highly accurized gauge at the end of the air tube. Can’t get more precise than that!
How did you quantify this pressure to be so certain? What instrumentation did you use?
I based mine off a chrono graph velocity drop and the highly accurized gauge at the end of the air tube. Can’t get more precise than that!
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caliber is .177. This is from the factory product manager who knows more about this gun than anyone else.
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Haha ok, glad you know that person. Let them know mines set to 135 bar. Must have slipped through quality with that setting. Or maybe my gauge is wrong….. or possibly there’s variance in pressure based on atmospheric conditions and air density.
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I'm pretty sure my .177 is dropping off the reg around 135-140 bar too. It's pushing at 10 grain slug at 1000 fps.
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Thanks for all the info guys, newbe here. Got bullshark in .22 had air in it. cleaned barrel - patches never came out clean, just constant black ring around. Told myself lets go. Cocking stiff- drop of oil all ok. Air up 200 bar Great bullpup it does all the things you guys say except 2.5 to 3 inch groups at 55 yards? Since all the #'s are alike that only leaves the barrel. So, I cleaned again, still bad. A friend told me to scrub barrel get BROWN scrubbing pads from hardware there for metal he said. tied a small piece on a string pull thru and a drop of oil, scrubbed till my arms were sore cleaned, tested Now one ragged hole at 55yrds best shooter in the stable hard hitting for a .22 fps 970 16.gr AArms 33.5 fpe. Your milage may very. Thanks again.
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He did not get good advice. Never put oil on an airgun. Use Ballistol and silicone lube. For cleaning the barrel get something called "PatchWorm". Pull it from the receiver to the muzzle only. Here are some links.
Ballistol: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A470DQA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
PatchWorm: https://www.amazon.com/Air-Venturi-...g-goods&sprefix=patchworm,sporting,118&sr=1-2
Also need some patches, here they are:
You'll also need a soda straw like for kids. Should be about 9 inches to 12 inches long at least. You take the pointy end of the patch room and puncture it through the center of the patch then push it through the orifice in the receiver, down the barrel and all the way out through the straw at the muzzle and pull your patch through. You insert the soda straw in muzzle as far as it will go. If you don't do this the patch worm with the patch attached won't be able to get past the baffles in the shroud. That's how you clean the airgun. Never put oil in the barrel. You can probably Google "how to clean a PCP airgun barrel.
I hope this helps. I love my Bullsharks. I have one in each of the three calibers. I found the best pellets for 22 caliber in that gun or JTS dead center, 18.1 grain and JSB Exact Jumbo 18.13 grain.
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Here's a video produced by the Project Manager at Stoeger industries on how to adjust the trigger weight pull on an XM1 Bullshark. I've also attached a target that I shot at 10 m with the 22 caliber bull shark and another one at 100 feet with a .177 Bullshark. I love this gun ! I also have the .25 caliber one.
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Great shooting! I really need to sell my. .25 flashpup and my Cayden and pick up 2 more Bullsharks.
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The video is fine for the second thing you should do to adjust the trigger but it is pretty bad for the Project Manager to not address the first stage spring. It is on the long rod connecting the trigger to the trigger block at the back. Looks a bit like a ballpoint pen spring. There is a collar with a set screw on it that sets the first stage tension. I dropped mine to essentially zero on all three of my P35s. The first stage is additive to the second stage. The fist stage is adding about 1 lb to the second stage pull. So if you drop it to zero you can safely have about a 1 lb trigger (with the sear adjustment he describes fine). The first stage does nothing for you with respect to accidental discharge (failing the drop test) so decreasing it is a zero risk step. So I would always do it first. You may find the trigger fine at that point. But, if not, you can decrease the sear engagement a little as he describes. I don't know about 1 lb per turn but you want to turn it in carefully and not get to aggressive with the sear. You can make it really light and have it work fine for awhile and then the parts wear a little and the gun goes off when you aren't touching the trigger. Ask me how I know. But somewhere around a pound should be fine with the first stage at zero.
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I haven't watched the video but I used Jim's instructions when I adjusted mine and it's fantastic now.
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The real issue with things like trigger adjustment is not the Project Manager at Stoeger, it is the lack of documentation from SPA. The "owners manual" is a brochure that says nearly nothing that is useful. I like my P35s but if I graded them on documentation they would be my worst airguns, by far. But owners helping each other can make up for the poor documentation. I don't like Facebook but the Artemis area on facebook can also be quite helpful at times.
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Sorry I didn't mean to mislead anyone. I'm new to this form. I have been involved with pcp guns since the start. The barrel was removed from the gun o ring removed. My point was, to clean the barrel till you think it's clean, then clean it again. My first cleaning was not good enough. I don't know if this barrel is normal or if the one I got was super dirty. My friends advise was correct the "brown scrubby" was the answer and shrunk my groups to a single hole at 55 yrds.
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