Anybody tried using these at the ends of the spring to eliminate twist in the shot cycle ? would it work ?
Sunday morning to much coffee ?
Sunday morning to much coffee ?
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just a thought at the moment (3rd cup of coffee )Intriguing idea! What size did you use and where did you find it?
i feel a twisting of the stock during the shot cycle HW 77 long .22 . I am a lefty and the gun twists to the left .Where does it torque come from? And how do you feel it?
Springer torque, the direction the spring unwinds when the sear is released is where you feel it, in worst case the gun can jump in a sideways direction from your POA.Where does it torque come from? And how do you feel it?
Exactly . would placing a Thrust bearing to let the spring do it's thing maybe make a smoother shot ? placing the bearing between the spring end and the top hat , or in front of the top hat and the piston ,so the top hat and the spring end spins freely ?Works best if there's a top hat in place.
ARH been selling them for years in various sizes for different pistons!
Yes goes in the piston first. With a little moly on the end of the top hat it gives it a bearing like affect. Plus a little more preload on the spring itself. Most are about a quarter inch thick. Oops no more like a 1/8 thickExactly . would placing a Thrust bearing to let the spring do it's thing maybe make a smoother shot ? placing the bearing between the spring end and the top hat , or in front of the top hat and the piston ,so the top hat and the spring end spins freely ?
i was thinking use a bearing to replace pre load washers ? I have never had a springer apart , only see pictures ........ so far .Yes goes in the piston first. With a little moly on the end of the top hat it gives it a bearing like affect. Plus a little more preload on the spring itself. Most are about a quarter inch thick. Oops no more like a 1/8 thick![]()
Exactly . would placing a Thrust bearing to let the spring do it's thing maybe make a smoother shot ? placing the bearing between the spring end and the top hat , or in front of the top hat and the piston ,so the top hat and the spring end spins freely ?
yes i usually think of the most complicated solution .This basic principle is where highly polished spring ends came into being...
A spring naturally uncoils a bit as it's compressed so the bearing washer lets it do so freely without binding anything up!i was thinking use a bearing to replace pre load washers ? I have never had a springer apart , only see pictures ........ so far .
Using the bearings would only lesson the shock , the spring would retain its normal movement . Maybe chasing my tail ?
The washers I'm talking about are merely a delrin spacer to go in front of the top hat! Yes I have read about experiments with actual bearings and didn't go well!It’s been done tested and a bad idea. The will come apart … properly made top hats are gonna do as well as you need. Unwinding the spring faster isn’t beneficial. . Controlling the rate it does is far more important. Saying something works on a 12 ft lb gun isn’t the same as a 20+ ft lb gun. Many will never experiace WHAT CAN be done with controlling the spring. You can’t get power with out it.
When they do break , and they will. They are not made for slamming pressure loads. it’s usually a bad situation and compression tubes get galled.
There were talks about them years ago.
As I recall the basic take away was this ....
Torque rotation during compression and extension of spring has the thrust plates rotation over the roller pins not enough to really have free rotation as such a bearing is designed to move. A short shuffle back and forth creates more a skid and the wear plates trend to pit / crater due to this minimal motion and extreme vibration / high loading.
* Also if ANY !!! of the roller pins get loose getting into the rifles mechanics ... BAD GUGU can happen !!!
A proper flatened spring end w/ edge bevel riding on a hard or semi hard synthetic thrust washer works just fine![]()