Don't agree in fashion shown ... If friction at spring ends is so high spring can't twist when compressed very little will be noted.There's actually very little rotation when compressing/ expanding a coil spring. If there was significant torque in most cases it would still be distributed in opposite directions into the same compression tube. Which would negate the ability to feel the torque.
When a springer rolls when fired it's because of the way it sits in your shoulder. The whole torque thing is greatly exaggerated.
Heres a brand new Hw95 spring act the installed length.
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Here's the same spring compressed to the cocked length.
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You can see maybe an eighth turn of rotation. How much torque are you getting out of that? Sometimes old beliefs have merit. Sometimes they don't. In this case it's easily debunked with a simple experiment and some logic.
Polishing the spring ends or better yet delrin guides and top hats are more than enough. Engineering roller bearings and the like it's entirely unnecessary. Do it if it makes you feel good but I wouldn't expect alot from it.
Be well
All.
Yup ... and why we professional tuners after grind flattening foot accurately, also place a small bevel on the coil end so it DOES NOT dig in and gouge surface it rotates againstMy R1 with stock internals definitely had spring torque. The slip washer was bent (due to the splines/feet on the spring guide)
which I am sure contributed to this
Thankyou for the explanation that makes sense .It’s been done tested and a bad idea. The will come apart … properly made top hats are gonna do as well as you need. Unwinding the spring faster isn’t beneficial. . Controlling the rate it does is far more important. Saying something works on a 12 ft lb gun isn’t the same as a 20+ ft lb gun. Many will never experiace WHAT CAN be done with controlling the spring. You can’t get power with out it.
When they do break , and they will. They are not made for slamming pressure loads. it’s usually a bad situation and compression tubes get galled.
The washers were stacked and lubed the. The washers were rolled back and forth until there was no twisting pressure in either direction. What you see is a valid representation of how much the spring wants to twist with that much compression.Don't agree in fashion shown ... If friction at spring ends is so high spring can't twist when compressed very little will be noted.
Now flat surface lapp all the washers at each end, apply a heavy moly lube to allow easier high torque rotation and try it again ?
As a note of HISTORY past ... if spring torque is not an issue then why was it not only FWB but Diana among others in there most advanced competition spring piston match rifles utilized opposing counter wound springs in these rifles ... Huh ?
The rifles Torque motion comes from the springs rotational mass being in motion having nothing to do with some mechanical force in play.The washers were stacked and lubed the. The washers were rolled back and forth until there was no twisting pressure in either direction. What you see is a valid representation of how much the spring wants to twist with that much compression.
As far as opposing counter wound spring guns goes they were successful because they neutralized directional reoil. Not because they eliminated torque.
To take this a bit deeper ....I've never had a problem with twisting after installing the Vortek or the Tinbum kit. There was definitely twist before.
From my limited experience a greased delrin surface against the piston is all that is needed.
I couldn't imagine a needle bearing under that kind of thrust load holding up. A tapered roller bearing is used for that kind of application. The spring dosent need a bearing there. Just a slippery durable surface to allow it to move a little as it winds/unwinds.
Sidestep the entire (mostly perceived) problem and install a gas ram. Best darn propulsion system since gunpowder. I love them. I would convert every spring gun I own to a gas ram if they offered the option.
The twist is an accuracy killer from a rest. I've decided that is why my springers don't shoot well from a bag. The effect is negligible when you hold the rifle and control the twist/recoil. Lay it across a bag and groups definitely open up.
It makes sense that even if the spring is rotating in the piston that the mass of the spring itself will impart a little twist. A delrin thrust washer keeps that twist from being transmitted to the piston by reducing friction. But it can't reduce the twist caused by the rotation of the spring itself. So no matter what type of bearing you put in there, there will always be a bit of twist. It just seems a lot more controllable when the spring torque is isolated to the spring.
As I STATED. SPRING CONTROL IS MORE IMPORTANT than how fast it rotates.To take this a bit deeper ....
It is not the rotation of spring when it can do so freely threw out its stroke travel, it just winds up and unwinds freely .... IT IS WHEN the friction at either end of spring allows rotational tension to build up due to a LACK OF rotation that at some point breaks free and violently corrects this stored torque energy to release the tension that it effects accuracy. Newtons 3rd law of physics once more being of equal & opposing reaction. Spring releases energy in rotation one direction, it imposes reaction forces the other direction.
Now mass of the containment vessel ( The gun itself ) absorbs a very large part of this ... but it there none the less if / when a spring is bound up held from free rotation and breaks free suddenly.
Physics 101 ...
oh The Lonngbow.Ah,Now I can picture how that comes about;it would seem that you would want the spring to rotate the same way every time.I am going to install a JM tune kit in my English Longbow today,I am just going to polished and put a slight bevel on the end of the new spring .
Intersting conversations,I learned form from them.![]()