Maybe
Maybe try with a piece of copper pipe in some pvc pipe, would help you set up a jig for doing this
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To glue your carbon fiber sleeve or not?
- Thread starter Milf Dots
- Start date
Just a little dampness speeds expansion, even ambient humidity will expand it. Be careful about adding water, it may go off too fast and you could wind up getting it stuck halfway. Just a damp patch, pulled through the carbon tube would be plenty to speed activation.
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my Artemis barrels were all a snug fit but i glued one with silicone glue from the crafts store(not hardware store silicone) it's "permanently" glued though silicone is supposed to come off with alcohol or acetone
if you're not aware epoxies are pure bisphenol so take care as that poop will glue itself to your estrogen receptors for life
if you're not aware epoxies are pure bisphenol so take care as that poop will glue itself to your estrogen receptors for life
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I had considered a variation of this & using silicone caulk the full length. Regular silicone caulking contains acetic acid (vinegar), and I was concerned about corrosion of the steel. Neutral cure silicone caulk is available that contains no acid and I thought this might be a better solution.
I wonder if filling the space between the liner and the carbon half volume would be better than completely filling it and causing a hydraulically locked situation. I’m thinking here of a sort of a vibration damping effect using the liquid.
Understand that I am just spit-balling here, because I am no more than an armchair scientist/engineer.
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How about hot melt glue? Seems it would fill any voids easier and can be removed with hot airgun.
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Hot gun glue hardens pretty quick and would be difficult to keep enough of it hot to slide the carbon rod down the length of the barrel.
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hot melt with out trying i know wont work , unless you bake your Barrel so hot that it wont cool while you make a mess , i just did one to my raw successful , fiberglass resin mixed in a paper plate with a piece of coat hanger wire "NOT TOO HOT " and using a 2 inch disposable hair brush is probably the easiest and best way that i could think of doing it , just be careful and dont be in a hurry , the resin allows enough time to work , be ready with a cloth and acetone, if you dont feel you have the skills for this , send it out , no shame in knowing where you should stop
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I don't know why nobody has tried to use one of these to inject the adhesive into the Gap between the od of the barrel and the id of the carbon tube?
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The parts are cheap enough that if you are going to stiffer more solid liner why wouldnt you bond them together??
A liner is $119 and a CF sleeve is $30 so worst case scenario if for some reason you do not like it (which I can not see happening) it is cheap to replace.
That said, I used epoxy and worked great just let it fully cure. I would say 48 hours (prob overkill but u want to make sure its solid)
A liner is $119 and a CF sleeve is $30 so worst case scenario if for some reason you do not like it (which I can not see happening) it is cheap to replace.
That said, I used epoxy and worked great just let it fully cure. I would say 48 hours (prob overkill but u want to make sure its solid)
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I think the biggest benefit of gluing is less variation between pellet weight impacts on the target. When switching from low weight to higher weight rounds, you get less variation on where the groups will be on the target.
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Really good write up, drawings, & photos. I modified your procedure a bit by applying a thick roll of tape at the muzzle end where the carbon would stop & butt against it. I also started from breech end.. That way the wave of JB pushing out ahead of the carbon wouldn’t obscure the stopping line. I allowed about 3/32” from forward end of carbon to rear of muzzle nut & the tape ensured it was precise.
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I use the bonded method, but I also bond steel ends on that overlap Carbon Fibre (official FX Stiffener). Then thread the end. After you can put another bit of Carbon Fibre on as a finish.
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BB- way back when, I was a(or one of) Ernest’s test pilots for carbon fiber sleeves on the fx liners. I had three fx guns at the time- (2) MK2 wildcats, a 25 cal in 600mm and a 30 cal in 700mm. The third gun was my MK2 impact 25 cal in 700mm. Ernest sent me three liners and a link to a video he made in prepping the liner for epoxy and gluing the liners on. I already knew how each gun shot, which they were all pretty good, so to get even better accuracy I was willing to try. He told me to get back to him with my results, and it would soon be released to the public if it proved helpful.
Long story made short, there’s a reason I’ve epoxied at least 20 liners since then, mainly for folks that send their FX’s to me for service. I have encouraged all of them to get a liner sleeve and have me epoxy it while I had their guns. Since then I’ve acquired another impact, which became my 100 yard bench gun for rmac this year in 30 cal. The gun did me well at scoring third place in the sportsman’s class, out of almost 80 contestants.
I’ve popped flies off of targets at 50 yards and numerous lizards out to a 100 yards. Even shot thru a hanging pulley with a 1/2” shaft hole at a hundred, and shot thru the hole w/o causing the pulley to move. Yes, I’m a big believer in epoxying the liner sleeves. I’ve tried shooting with liners just pushed into a sleeve unglued, and it’s not the same. VETMX, a member here, said it best. Not gluing our liner to the sleeve allows the liner to buzz within the sleeve with each shot, instead of helping to stiffen it even more so with the epoxy.
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Would standard clear fingernail polish work? It has a medium working time and can be dissolved with acetone.
We used to use it to keep sight screws from coming loose.
We used to use it to keep sight screws from coming loose.
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