To Strip or Not To Strip

This is the question. Here are three examples. Top one is a factory finished Beechwood stock. Almost looks pickled. No color but a nice matte finish. I did strip it and it’s now the bottom one. Just received a new one (middle). They finally added some color to the wood. Much better. This particular piece of Beechwood even has some figure. I like it but don’t love it. The figure would be greatly enhanced with a strip and refinish. So the question is: Strip it or Leave it. Thank you.
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This is the question. Here are three examples. Top one is a factory finished Beechwood stock. Almost looks pickled. No color but a nice matte finish. I did strip it and it’s now the bottom one. Just received a new one (middle). They finally added some color to the wood. Much better. This particular piece of Beechwood even has some figure. I like it but don’t love it. The figure would be greatly enhanced with a strip and refinish. So the question is: Strip it or Leave it. Thank you.View attachment 555220
I'm a finish carpenter and have done a ton of beech. European steamed beech usually has a light "pickled" color to it. You can sand it down, wet it and lightly sand to raise the grain to do some tricks with how you see the extremely limited figuring in beech.

I typically mist beech with a penetrating dye stain highly thinned with acetone, this will raise some grain and darken it up a little. If you want a richer darker tone I then go over that with zar controlled penetration stain because it doesn't have a tendency to get blotchy on you. For your color scheme I might use raw umber to spray and Zara "aged bourbon" color formerly known as medium brown walnut. Let that stuff dry for at least 48 hours because if you don't, any ding or pressure will either delaminate your clear coat or it will fog up and look greyish white between the stain and clear.

The big advantage to this method that I use on all woods and difficult colors is that the dye stain step allows you to cover light spots a little thicker and the spray pattern can be used to mimick or enhance grain. It's not the worst thing to sand it off of you were unhappy either.

I hope this helps you In some way. I might sand yours down and try to richen up the depth of color if it were for me. I'm not harping on your work BTW.
 
I'm a finish carpenter and have done a ton of beech. European steamed beech usually has a light "pickled" color to it. You can sand it down, wet it and lightly sand to raise the grain to do some tricks with how you see the extremely limited figuring in beech.

I typically mist beech with a penetrating dye stain highly thinned with acetone, this will raise some grain and darken it up a little. If you want a richer darker tone I then go over that with zar controlled penetration stain because it doesn't have a tendency to get blotchy on you. For your color scheme I might use raw umber to spray and Zara "aged bourbon" color formerly known as medium brown walnut. Let that stuff dry for at least 48 hours because if you don't, any ding or pressure will either delaminate your clear coat or it will fog up and look greyish white between the stain and clear.

The big advantage to this method that I use on all woods and difficult colors is that the dye stain step allows you to cover light spots a little thicker and the spray pattern can be used to mimick or enhance grain. It's not the worst thing to sand it off of you were unhappy either.

I hope this helps you In some way. I might sand yours down and try to richen up the depth of color if it were for me. I'm not harping on your work BTW.
I strip the original finish off. Do not use lacquer thinner as it removes color and raises the grain to much. Steel wool with the grain. Let stock dry overnight. Stain multiple times and colors. Let each coat dry for 1-2 hours. Rub the stock down with rubbing alcohol between stain coats. This locks in the stain without removing any of it and opens the grain just enough to take on another stain color. When the final color is achieved it’s ready for the clear coat. Finding quality colored stains is the difficult part.
 
I strip the original finish off. Do not use lacquer thinner as it removes color and raises the grain to much. Steel wool with the grain. Let stock dry overnight. Stain multiple times and colors. Let each coat dry for 1-2 hours. Rub the stock down with rubbing alcohol between stain coats. This locks in the stain without removing any of it and opens the grain just enough to take on another stain color. When the final color is achieved it’s ready for the clear coat. Finding quality colored stains is the difficult part.
The best option I use is unobtainium, I have some old formulation watco oil that's from the 90sand it can really let you fake walnut on other species of wood. 😁
 
@Bear-of-Grayling - Nice results on the stock! So how does the rifle shoot?
Good question. These both are the “Diana Stormrider“ in 22 caliber. I started out on a Sheridan in the late 70’s/early 80’s. Went to the Beeman R1 in the mid 80’s. Had them all. Best Target guns, PCP‘s and Springers. 45 years of Airguns and this Stormrider is by far my favorite of all time airguns. Light weight, quiet, accurate, scope friendly, great trigger, nicely made and a bargain at $200 ttd. This is a 11 shot group at 40 yards in a stiff breeze. Hence the windage drift. 18.1 grain JTS Dead Center.
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