Tuning Trigger Tuning of the M3

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kaylaindy

kaylaindy

Member
Jun 3, 2017
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Washington, United States
This thread is "off the record" ...tuning your M3 trigger is NOT ADVISED and may void your warranty or result in serious injury or death. 


I have a couple questions. It says in the manual they don't want you messing with the trigger, but it also tells what each screw does. My trigger is at 1 pound 2 ounces, a good hunting weight but not the best for bench rest shooting. Has anyone adjusted thier trigger to a lighter weight? If so, how?


also, this screw I have to back in and out each time I adjust the rear regulator #2. When it's screwed in, the trigger won't fire, back it out and it fires again. What is it? 

savem3.1626880988.JPG



 
From looking at the parts drawing online, this trigger appears to use the same spring-and-ball arrangement for trigger weight adjustment as other FX rifles. It is an odd duck, and you're limited in weight adjustment. I installed the Boss match trigger in my Royale, which replaces that arrangement with levers, but I assume it will not work in this rifle. As mentioned above, you can try removing the first stage movement, making it a single stage trigger, which might help with a lighter adjustment. But that's not a setup I would trust for safety in a hunting situation. 
 
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IMO….there really is no way of making this trigger really light. Without getting rid of the first stage. 


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I think you are right, but there is an issue with that approach. You have to adjust the travel so that the sear is resting on the very edge of the trigger wheel's release point. Just be sure it's safe. I would also recommend polishing the bearing surfaces of the sear and trigger wheel, being sure not to remove any metal, 3M polishing paper on a flat stone is good. I assume FX designed this trigger to be simple, cheap to make, and capable of a reasonably good feel. But getting from reasonably good to excellent, well, it's a stretch. 
 
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IMO….there really is no way of making this trigger really light. Without getting rid of the first stage. 


Click to expand...

I think you are right, but there is an issue with that approach. You have to adjust the travel so that the sear is resting on the very edge of the trigger wheel's release point. Just be sure it's safe. I would also recommend polishing the bearing surfaces of the sear and trigger wheel, being sure not to remove any metal, 3M polishing paper on a flat stone is good. I assume FX designed this trigger to be simple, cheap to make, and capable of a reasonably good feel. But getting from reasonably good to excellent, well, it's a stretch.
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I left a very short first stage. I spent several minutes observing how the trigger worked…and was disappointed. In order “lighten” the trigger. Ur basically adjusted how much the sear catches. And in order to get the least amount of catch deemed “safe”….first stage will be gone. Hint: watch the detent ball…U can’t get it lighter that the weight required to depress the detent ball. 

 
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If the angles are correct, and the bearing surfaces highly polished, you should be able to get all the perceptible first stage travel out, and have a lighter release. But, I consider it a bench-only adjustment. I would never carry it that way. It's a decent field trigger, and best left that way.
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Good advice…your probably right.

but for my taste, it’s to heavy for any type of shooting. 
 
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If the angles are correct, and the bearing surfaces highly polished, you should be able to get all the perceptible first stage travel out, and have a lighter release. But, I consider it a bench-only adjustment. I would never carry it that way. It's a decent field trigger, and best left that way.
Click to expand...

Good advice…your probably right.

but for my taste, it’s to heavy for any type of shooting.
Click to expand...

Triggers are kind of subjective, but about what release weight do you want?
 
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