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Since you like Tru-Oil, I thought I'd pass along something you might not know, or others could learn. An alternative method of using it is to apply it in conjuction with Armor-all as a catalyst so that it basically cures instantly. I use a paper plate and pour a spot of tru-oil on it, and another paper plate with a spot of armor-all on it. Bare handed, no gloves used, touch just the tip of your index finger to the oil, and your middle finger to the armor-all, and then rub them on your stock. The two will mix and the heat from your fingers and the rubbing will make it cure quickly. You just do a small spot that you can cover with such a small amount of product. It will feel dry in under a minute if you are going at it vigorously and keep repeating the process. You can do the whole stock in an hour or two once you get going and it basically feels dry when you are done. You just keep doing it until you like the look. After the first coat the following coats go much quicker. I usually would do 3-5 depending on what I was working with. The nice thing about it is that you can always do it again later if you want to touch it up and your stock isn't tied up for weeks curing. I typically do give it about a week anyway, the first time. I learned this over at rimfirecentral.com from a member who was a woodworker called Norem. It works great.

EDIT: I was wrong about Noremf (George) liking this method, he actually hated it. So, I would not suggest using it on a nice piece of walnut (because George knows his stuff) but it still works fast and is fine for beech to me.
 
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PumaCarl said:
Since you like Tru-Oil, I thought I'd pass along something you might not know, or others could learn. An alternative method of using it is to apply it in conjuction with Armor-all as a catalyst so that it basically cures instantly. I use a paper plate and pour a spot of tru-oil on it, and another paper plate with a spot of armor-all on it. Bare handed, no gloves used, touch just the tip of your index finger to the oil, and your middle finger to the armor-all, and then rub them on your stock. The two will mix and the heat from your fingers and the rubbing will make it cure quickly. You just do a small spot that you can cover with such a small amount of product. It will feel dry in under a minute if you are going at it vigorously and keep repeating the process. You can do the whole stock in an hour or two once you get going and it basically feels dry when you are done. You just keep doing it until you like the look. After the first coat the following coats go much quicker. I usually would do 3-5 depending on what I was working with. The nice thing about it is that you can always do it again later if you want to touch it up and your stock isn't tied up for weeks curing. I typically do give it about a week anyway, the first time. I learned this over at rimfirecentral.com from a member who was a woodworker called Norem. It works great.
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Very interesting. And I had not heard of this method. I appreciate you taking the time to share this. I will give it a try.
 
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Sorry, gave my last gun that I did that to, to my niece many years ago. No pics. But, I will say this. I would not trust this method to bring out what isn't there already on a stock. Prep your stock, fill it, stain it, do whatever it needs to look good first because this cures quickly. It is not going to spend two to three weeks slowing curing and working its way into the wood. It doesn't have that much color in and of itself. I did a beech stock for a 10/22 and I had stripped it down and it came out being on the blonde side. I liked the look actually because it was different at the time, but if I were going to do it again I would stain the stock first.
 
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Not my favorite finish but here's a tip when a used bottle starts getting dry bits in it. Apply it with a cotton cloth (Tee shirt). Soak one side of the cloth and turn it over to wipe it on.The cloth filters out the grits. Then hand rub it dry like you usually do. I do one end of the stock and after a while when it's dry hold that end and finish the other blending in the middle as you rub dry.
 
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Just went to rimfirecentral.com for the first time in years. It seems a lot has happened with this technique and it is now refered to as the "majic elixer" or something similar, and it is in somewhat disfavor by some for some reason. Anyways, head on over there and do some reading before you commit to anything. The guys name, who came up with it, is George, known as Noremf, and he is legend over there when it comes to wood finishing. That website has the most active wood stock re-finishers I have ever been to and still seems to be really into it. It is a great resource for that.

EDIT: I got George's part mixed up, he hated this technique, so really consider it. It does however save time.
 
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PumaCarl said:
Sorry, gave my last gun that I did that to, to my niece many years ago. No pics. But, I will say this. I would not trust this method to bring out what isn't there already on a stock. Prep your stock, fill it, stain it, do whatever it needs to look good first because this cures quickly. It is not going to spend two to three weeks slowing curing and working its way into the wood. It doesn't have that much color in and of itself. I did a beech stock for a 10/22 and I had stripped it down and it came out being on the blonde side. I liked the look actually because it was different at the time, but if I were going to do it again I would stain the stock first.
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Did well on this Stock🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

IMG_2336.jpeg
 
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Cajun1024 said:
Mixing with mineral spirits also works great. Really speeds up drying time and doesn't affect the final result. Key is to use 0000 steel wool sfter each application. to fill the grain
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Oh, speed that up. Slop a few coats on and then block it down with sandpaper to fill the pores. Then a few finish coats rubbed dry. Naptha speeds up oil better than mineral spirits.
But I'm not really a fan of a glossy stock TBH. You can top coat the filled wood with Minwax Antique oil for a satin sheen and it's so darn easy to work with. IF you can find any, it's discontinued.
Check out Timberluxe. It's been recommended to me by a top gun stock builder. His son works for Griffin and Howe, FWIW
 
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Chief Ten-Beers said:
Can the Armor-all and true oil be mixed ahead of time so that the application will go quicker?
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No, you can't mix them first. There is chemical reaction that occurs, and between that and the heat from your fingers, and the rubbing action, the curing starts happening quickly. This process is already magnitudes of time quicker than anything else that you are going to use. Thinking back on it, I think that I did use 0000 steel wool between coats. I did some the old fashioned way too, so I could be remembering that, whatever. More than one way to get there from here.
 
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PumaCarl said:
No, you can't mix them first. There is chemical reaction that occurs, and between that and the heat from your fingers, and the rubbing action, the curing starts happening quickly. This process is already magnitudes of time quicker than anything else that you are going to use. Thinking back on it, I think that I did use 0000 steel wool between coats. I did some the old fashioned way too, so I could be remembering that, whatever. More than one way to get there from here.
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Thank you. When the snow starts flying in a few months, I may tackle My JTS stock.
 
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A.G.R said:
Okay, don’t be insulted, glossy varnish in the Checkering is a cheapening look, never is any custom stock maker GONA cog the diamonds and the grain

I do not like true oil AT all … I make my own oils for finishing.. wet sanded in as most high end firearms makers do.

View attachment 500203

this this is a great example of proper diamonds and sealed oil checkering.
View attachment 500204View attachment 500205
this is a Venom gun I just refinished the stock and re blued. Notice the grain clearly visible in the Checkering.
The satin glass finish

opinions are like ass holes ,every one has one and at times they all stink. 😉
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Obviously a better way, and I love your work, but I just don't have the place or the patience to do due nice work like yours. Great looking Venom stock, but it still doesn't look as good as that .25 springer's stock that you made.
 
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A.G.R said:
Okay, don’t be insulted, glossy varnish in the Checkering is a cheapening look, never is any custom stock maker GONA cog the diamonds and the grain

I do not like true oil AT all … I make my own oils for finishing.. wet sanded in as most high end firearms makers do.

View attachment 500203

this this is a great example of proper diamonds and sealed oil checkering.
View attachment 500204View attachment 500205
this is a Venom gun I just refinished the stock and re blued. Notice the grain clearly visible in the Checkering.
The satin glass finish

opinions are like ass holes ,every one has one and at times they all stink. 😉
Click to expand...
That’s your opinion. And I still have mine. It’s not a debate. .
 
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