I got the PP800, but unfortunatelly it starts loosing air trough the valve after the first shots... bad valve I supose, has send back to fix.
I never do any mods before, but I have a 3d printer and some experience making mechanical pieces and poop, so for the estetics I want to give it a ''semi-auto'' feel, replacing the ugly and big wooden grip for some nice and small grip placed forward to get a better balance and give the gun a rear ''talon''. I'm gonna need to make another trigger and place it forward, maybe just to push the real one, or I may change the internals to some degree.
For precision I think it may help if I just print a piece that holds the barrel together with the cylinder to avoid posible vibrations, I see some people doing similar with DIY pieces.
I can figure aestetics my myself, buy I never do any ''power tune'' before.
For the power I plan to drill a bigger hole all the way from the botom of the cylinder (Bottom part in contact with transfer port) transfer port and and upper canon hole that is in contact with the transfer port... Is that the way its done? What diameter should I use (caliber of the gun is .177)
I also read that someone has reduced the back end of the piece that holds the valve, so the hammer can push it a little further, but the autor don't recommend it, as just gained a 90fps or so and reduce the shot count considerably.
What if I put a stronger spring?
In other tread, the user be4meliz says that his PP800 .177 delivers 20 joules (900 fps 8.5g) without modification... but the manufacturar claim a lot less... did he got the exception, or every PP800 do the same? cause if it does that, I'm already near the legal limit of my country and better not touch anything.
I never do any mods before, but I have a 3d printer and some experience making mechanical pieces and poop, so for the estetics I want to give it a ''semi-auto'' feel, replacing the ugly and big wooden grip for some nice and small grip placed forward to get a better balance and give the gun a rear ''talon''. I'm gonna need to make another trigger and place it forward, maybe just to push the real one, or I may change the internals to some degree.
For precision I think it may help if I just print a piece that holds the barrel together with the cylinder to avoid posible vibrations, I see some people doing similar with DIY pieces.
I can figure aestetics my myself, buy I never do any ''power tune'' before.
For the power I plan to drill a bigger hole all the way from the botom of the cylinder (Bottom part in contact with transfer port) transfer port and and upper canon hole that is in contact with the transfer port... Is that the way its done? What diameter should I use (caliber of the gun is .177)
I also read that someone has reduced the back end of the piece that holds the valve, so the hammer can push it a little further, but the autor don't recommend it, as just gained a 90fps or so and reduce the shot count considerably.
What if I put a stronger spring?
In other tread, the user be4meliz says that his PP800 .177 delivers 20 joules (900 fps 8.5g) without modification... but the manufacturar claim a lot less... did he got the exception, or every PP800 do the same? cause if it does that, I'm already near the legal limit of my country and better not touch anything.