Tuning a Marauder- What to adjust and where to start

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Profsrgary, the diagram shows the "acetal pin" but I don't see a set screw?
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Thanks for the correction Rong. I have nothing, no pin or screw. I took mine out this am and shot before the wind kicked up and it is back to driving tacks again with the stroke 4 turns cw and spring 1 and 1/2 turns cw. I used blue loctite on the striker and hammer tension threads and preset before assm. With both screws backed out to zero I had the fps and fill pressure desired but it shot poorly. There was a distinct bounce to the gun and to get it to group I had to hold it tightly. It also had a report that sounded different. I suspect I may have been getting hammer bounce. Now the report is crisp and the gun can be shot with a relaxed hold. I am going to order a new striker screw from crosman so I have a spare to play with. I am thinking about grinding a flat spot on it and as it is being threaded into the hammer placing a piece of trimmer line in the flat spot and forcing it between the two. The other option I am looking at is cutting an oring that will fit tightly into the hole into short pieces and forcing them and stacking them until I have the desired tension on the screw.The blue loctite is working for now but I have little faith it will hold up to the constant hammering it will be subjected to.
 
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In all these papers, videos etc, no one ever actually describes what you'll encounter.

My hammer spring adjustment makes no sense, there's tension on the screw no matter which way I turn it, no matter how many turns, I can't even say where it is from factor now, is there a better reesource that gets into details instead of generalitties? As in specific prodecure and how you even know if you're doing it right?
 
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In all these papers, videos etc, no one ever actually describes what you'll encounter.

My hammer spring adjustment makes no sense, there's tension on the screw no matter which way I turn it, no matter how many turns, I can't even say where it is from factor now, is there a better reesource that gets into details instead of generalitties? As in specific prodecure and how you even know if you're doing it right?
Click to expand...

I am by no means an expert Marauder tuner so I will just relay what I have experienced working on my .22 Mrod getting it to a level where I could use it for field target. I think my best advice is to read and re-read the Crosman’s “A” teams “Tuning Procedures” report that is referenced earlier in this thread. If you want to change your tune move your three settings (hammer spring, hammer throw, and transfer port) to a reference point that they describe under the “Preparations” heading. From there they give you two methods to try to get your velocities and strings where you want them. Keeping good notes is a must and also keep a reference of where you started from so you can always go back to that.

I primarily used their “Method 1” to get to my objective which was a reasonable shot count with minimal fps deviation at a FPE under 20. To reach that objective there was a lot of trial and error and fiddling with all three settings involved, many pellets used, and many pressure top offs to the gun. At some point I would eventually see my velocities getting a bit more consistent, longer, and quieter and I would call that good. I am sure one of the experienced tuners for hire could do a better and quicker job of it, but overall I am glad I took the plunge and “goterdone” so to speak. Recently I have had some problems with velocity creep due to the hammer throw screw backing out and this experience helped me easily get it back to tune without the expense of sending it someone. This forum has been a great help too. You will need to set aside a fair amount of time aside to work through the tuning process. 

The other method you can use is to acquire some “recipes” from other Marauder owners that have your same objectives. Some people will post those on the forums, but you would need to make sure you have the exact same gun, caliber, and internals as many change those out to aftermarket. Basically just replicate their hammer spring, hammer throw, and port # of turns and adjust from there to your liking. I do think the A team guide does give you a little better understanding of what the adjustments actually do though.

In your post you say there is no mention of what you will encounter. Not entirely sure what you mean by that but I will throw out a few things. Primarily you will only encounter changes in FPS from your chronograph readings as you adjust any of the three settings. You will encounter slight changes in hammer spring tension when you turn it clockwise as the spring compresses. For the hammer throw and transfer port you don’t encounter much change in resistance, if any at all until you get to their stops. For actual changes in velocity I found the transfer port adjustment was most sensitive - just an 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn had maybe a 20fps change. The hammer spring and hammer throw adjustments were less sensitive, they usually required around 1/2 a turn to see much velocity change.




 
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Hello All, PCP Newbie here,



I have the Armada in .22, and have found OEM, as received settings, works decently enough for small varmint hunting but I wanted a little more. The Squirrels really get me PO'd when I can hit them and they run off... I need a little more kick to put them down first shot.

I am trying to read and understand the OP and the added postings, but I ran across a section where I am not sure but something maybe missing. I understand this is an old posting but good info doesn't go bad so I need someone to help out and maybe fill in the info.

Under' "Here is how you start:" there is a list of things to do, 1 - 11, then "4 -10" come along, did something happen, did I miss a change in procedure 1 through 3, or is it even a new step within the procedure ?

Also, within the "4-10 steps" "Method 1 and Method 2"... is called out but there isn't any methods in place. This could be just my understand and inexperience but it threw me !


I see "Aimright" posted he is using Method 1, so all this maybe just me understanding and/or my computer, but anyone that wants to add in please do, I'm a little slow but I don't want to make a change and screw up or hurt the Gun.

I do thank all, for the input on this thread, it is helpful and I am hoping just a numbering problem within the step of this procedure that will straighten me out.

I don't have a Chronograph, don't expect to get on soon but I am hoping to see if my next door Airgunner (Larry) can help me out.
 
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