Umarex Tuning in general

I have seen a few Youtube videos about tuning. They were all for rifles I do not own, but I think I can still apply the principles. I would like to go over my understand of what I have learned and hope some of you will correct me if I am wrong.

Rifles I own
Umarex Guantlet 2 SL 30 (Hammer spring adjustment only but I am sure Hajimoto can hook me up)
Umarex Zelos (regulator and hammer spring adjustment)

For this example lets assume I am tuning the Zelos to a lower than stock pressure for more shots per fill.
1 Set the regulator pressure at whatever pressure I want to tune to.
2 Back out the hammer spring significantly
3 Gradually increase the hammer spring tension until 2-3 increases in tension do not result in greater FPS

That's all I can do without a more adjustable rifle like the FX right?
 
I have seen a few Youtube videos about tuning. They were all for rifles I do not own, but I think I can still apply the principles. I would like to go over my understand of what I have learned and hope some of you will correct me if I am wrong.

Rifles I own
Umarex Guantlet 2 SL 30 (Hammer spring adjustment only but I am sure Hajimoto can hook me up)
Umarex Zelos (regulator and hammer spring adjustment)

For this example lets assume I am tuning the Zelos to a lower than stock pressure for more shots per fill.
1 Set the regulator pressure at whatever pressure I want to tune to.
2 Back out the hammer spring significantly
3 Gradually increase the hammer spring tension until 2-3 increases in tension do not result in greater FPS

That's all I can do without a more adjustable rifle like the FX right?

At lease on my Maverick, there is only regulator and hammer spring adjustments, just like the Zelos but there is a "fine tune" wheel on the hammer spring as well as a 1-7 bigger adjustment series of steps as well.

No real difference
 
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The steps you outlined are valid for most regulated PCPs, except that it omits the last step where you back off the hammer spring tension a little. See the following guidance or search the term “velocity knee”

 
You've got the idea, but as stated, when you find the peak or plateau, you then back down the hammer, 3-5% in velocity to get you on the knee. You can almost always hear your gun change it sound. When air is blowing out the barrel after the pellet leaves it will be loud and grouchy:), but when you turn the hammer back, and reach the point you are no longer wasting air, it will quiet down to a pfffft!. It's harder to say than it is to hear. That sound is a good indication of efficiency.

A good example is the FX Impact. They have so many adjustments, that you can easily get a bit lost. It's easy to just start over. But when you get it right, the sound on mine changes dramatically, and I know, I'm there.
 
You've got the idea, but as stated, when you find the peak or plateau, you then back down the hammer, 3-5% in velocity to get you on the knee. You can almost always hear your gun change it sound. When air is blowing out the barrel after the pellet leaves it will be loud and grouchy:), but when you turn the hammer back, and reach the point you are no longer wasting air, it will quiet down to a pfffft!. It's harder to say than it is to hear. That sound is a good indication of efficiency.

A good example is the FX Impact. They have so many adjustments, that you can easily get a bit lost. It's easy to just start over. But when you get it right, the sound on mine changes dramatically, and I know, I'm there.
Great explination, thank you.
 
The steps you outlined are valid for most regulated PCPs, except that it omits the last step where you back off the hammer spring tension a little. See the following guidance or search the term “velocity knee”

Got it, thank you. I am still going to look that up. I love the nerdy stuff!