Tuning the HW45/P1

I wanted to share what I believe to be the best way to tune the HW45 pistol after approx 30 years of owning and tuning.

First, you can just leave it stock and shoot it. If you resist adding any additional lubrication, it will eventually expel, or burn off the excess lube put into it by the manufacturer. It will take a few tins of pellets to do this and will finally settle down. The components are built to last a lifetime and can be run relatively dry with no excess wear noticeable.

However, if you have the relevant skills to tune one, this is the method to use.

HW placed the rolled steel guide rod down inside the piston (opposite to any other gun) to increase the weight to the piston. This is to overcome the excessive cushion of air coming from the restrictive TP which bends through 90 degrees. It is also this restriction which generates heat which effects any lubes placed into the gun. However, having the guide down inside the piston means that there is no guiding at the loose spring end to control it where it is needed at the muzzle end. Tuning companies then supplying Delrin kits which have a shortened guides which can then be fitted at both ends to help smooth the gun and control the spring at both ends.....This is a mistake!

In this particular gun, if we make the guide/Top hat out of Delrin, we lose the valuable inertia to drive through that restrictive TP and lose a good 1ftlb or more (the whole point of owning a HW45 being its power) Such a move turns the gun into a benign 4.5 ftlb Tempest.

What we need to do is, machine the Top hat/guide and another to fit in the opposing end just the same, but out of steel. I have found if you machine a shorter guide of 30mm long, it will still weigh the same as the originally rolled steel guide because that is hollow, not solid. You require a good 20 grams and this will achieve max velocity. The shorter steel guide at the muzzle end, will stop the mainspring flailing around, prolonging its life and keeping from canting over against the wall of the piston, also increasing velocity a touch. As a bonus this muzzle end guide can act as a beneficial muzzle weight. 

If you follow this advice, your HW45 will approach 570 fps with 7.8 grainers and can give 10mm groups after plenty of practise and most lube removed.




 
9E8A91B0-9731-4571-AC6C-A7A185FCFE2D.1600613678.jpeg
6F4138CE-8734-4768-A833-C7C768203134.1600613691.jpeg
5566FAA2-915C-4F2D-A9AE-DD1DB651F955.1600613708.jpeg


Sure buddy. First pic is a stock rolled guide weighing approx 20 grams. HW fit this down inside the piston (the wrong way round) to overcome the chocking/ piston bounce of the restricted TP. It gives around 40 FPS compared to fitted at the normally correct end.

The middle pic is a proprietary Delrin kit, which guides both ends of the spring correctly enough but you lose 40 fps or a 1ftlb.

These want replicating but in solid Steel. I have made them in solid Stainless Steel.

The .22 and .20 will produce even more power.
 
9E8A91B0-9731-4571-AC6C-A7A185FCFE2D.1600613678.jpeg
6F4138CE-8734-4768-A833-C7C768203134.1600613691.jpeg
5566FAA2-915C-4F2D-A9AE-DD1DB651F955.1600613708.jpeg


Sure buddy. First pic is a stock rolled guide weighing approx 20 grams. HW fit this down inside the piston (the wrong way round) to overcome the chocking/ piston bounce of the restricted TP. It gives around 40 FPS compared to fitted at the normally correct end.

The middle pic is a proprietary Delrin kit, which guides both ends of the spring correctly enough but you lose 40 fps or a 1ftlb.

These want replicating but in solid Steel. I have made them in solid Stainless Steel.

The .22 and .20 will produce even more power.

Very cool Steve. Appreciate the pics.

The middle kit looks to be the same kit I saw offered on ebay. EagleCam or something similar. TinBum Tuning also makes a similar kit but advises reducing a coil from the spring to allow for the built in preload. I don't think that's the best way to do it, especially if power will be sacrificed. Gave you a + accuracy point for the post. Good stuff buddy.
 
Tom anytime.

If you have access to a lathe its easy. I just turned up the solid steel guide, but if not there are a number ways to tackle this issue.

One way which worked for one shooter (Who was in New Zealand of all places) was to order the Eagle cam kit off the bay and then drilling a hole through the top hat guide of 5/16” (8mm) diameter and shoving in a short rod of 8mm steel cut to the same length as the guide. He glued it in the finish. This increased the weight of the front top hat by 15 grams to give the guiding but also the required weight to maintain the power.

Another way is to simply use the OEM guide down inside the piston (worth 40 fps versus being at the muzzle end) and then shoving a spring centraliser into the bore of the spring end plug. This requires the cross pin hole spotting through whatever you use. An 1/2” Nylon bolt about 3/4 inch long can be fashioned to fit, spotted through and held by the cross pin which retains the end plug. Anything which centralises the spring at that end.

The Tinbum kit on its own is rubbish, being too light, losing a good 1/2 ftlb over stock and introducing a touch of piston bounce with heavier pellets as the piston is too light for such a light weight guide. It really requires a good 20 grams of weight. The kit is a touch smoother as the mainspring cannot cant over at the breech end but you will be lucky to make much over 4.5 ftlbs, robbing the whole point of purchasing a HW45….whichnis its power.


 
Steveoo, would you be interested in selling one? I have a .22 and honestly not impressed with the accuracy. Bench shooting it off of a sandbag at approximately 15m. Have tried several different flavors of pellets. The best one so far is an RWS Hobby Sportline 11.9 gr. I ran out of adjustment on height using heavier pellets. I have an old Benjamin pump that shoots better then this one. I was really excited about getting this pistol but some frustration has set in. I have probably put 500+ rounds through her. 
 
Hoping for some help from @Steveoo or someone else that knows this pistol well. New to me HW45 .22. SN puts it at 2005/2006, stainless look with ebony grips. Previous owner said it hadn’t been shot much and was still dieseling from factory lube. Was shooting a little over 3 FPE at full power when I got it. Dry fired it and has jumped to a little over 4 FPE and can now smell it dieseling. Spring feels good, cocking is smooth and requires some effort. Wondering if I should dry fire a second time or if there’s something else I should check before taking apart and checking piston seal. Saw a post where Steveoo mentioned loosening barrel straps and tapping barrel up against the breech seal. When I close it after cocking I can actually see a gap between barrel and breech just before it closes fully. Is this normal or should I try tapping barrel back a little? Thanks.