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Resources Tuning the Piatt/Thomas

She’s a real nice lady. I was lucky to buy 2 of Wills rifles after he passed from her.

That’s cool about the name engraving 👍🏻🇺🇸
I have only talked to Mrs. Piatt on the phone and she is very pleasant to talk with.

Mr. Piatt has such a good reputation, I wish I had the chance to shoot with him.
 
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those are great procedure write ups......thanks alot.....BC
and thanks for reconfirming my recollection of the procedures......
I had time tonight to compare the tapered #6-32 with a non tapered #6-32 of nearly equal length (~2 threads longer) and the FPE dropped to 10.9 - 11.3 over 50 shots. Backed out the jet screw just until 1 thread was visible and the FPE jumped to 12.9 - 13.7 over 4 shots.

So l am leaving the rifle tuned with the original jet screw at just less than 12 FPE.

Unintentionally, I now own a USFT, a Thomas, and an FX M3 all tuned to <12 FPE.
 
Be mindful that the taper has nothing to do with the guns performance. Fiat or tapered are functionally the same.

Mike
I agree. I just re-tested the full length #6-32 by backing it out from seated ~1/4 turn at a time and achieved 11.2 to 11.9 FPE over 6 shots.

Last night's test was way off because the jet screw seems to face off the cap and not the shaft (leaving a bit of open air space) and the length of the cap is about what? 3 to 5 threads. So backing out the screw to expose 1 thread above the cap pocket opened the airway a fare bit.

Why is the original jet screw somewhat shorter and tapered?
 
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I put a taper on mine because it makes the transition from fully into the transfer port bore to just beginning to leave the bore less sensitive. With a flat ended screw....a tiny bit shorter can make a big difference if you happen to be just emerging from the bottom bore in the port.

Mike
 
@cavedweller, Hello Rudy! We shot together when you stopped buy PSA to visit Rod!

I was shooting my Rod tuned and setup USFT off of my Rod customized Targetshooters.com one piece rest.

I forgot you sold this rifle to Rod. The serial number is 0314 (my wife's birthday!!!!)

What do you know about this rifle? When I ran a dry patch through the barrel it came out spotless, a second patch with WD40 was also spotless. So unless you shot it and cleaned it I don't think you or the person you bought it from shot it.

I contacted Mrs. Piatt and she is going to research her husband's gunsmithing paperwork to find any related info on this rifle and pass it along.
I bought this as the third owner- guessing Piatts wife sold it to the guy I bought it from. I wanted to make an FT stock for it but……
Definitely didn’t see much wear or tear well cared for tool!
 
interesting!
I combined the setup procedures listed above. I executed the hammer spring adjustment optimization process as part of the procedure and when finished all settings - jet screw length, jet screw taper, hammer spring adjustment knob position - were the same.

The greatest effect on accuracy was changing to a one piece pendulum rest with a mechanical top ( no sand bag).

From: 
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To:
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What is a “pendulum rest”? Are you using a bungee on the new rest?
I found bungee cord is a bit too springy.

I use two strands of 40 mil Spectra as the core of a 23.015 meter cobra braided parachute cord that is knotted into a 9 foot diameter monkey's foot with a 1.6 ton pure cobalt 60 ball bearing core having a 75.0173 micron thick Zirconium surface layer.

The Cherenkov radiation burns like a bitch but once you get the gun duc taped tightly to the monkey's foot, your POA will never shift.

At least while you are still breathing.
 
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Hey Troy, nice gun. Tuning wise the old way Mike slowed the speed down was NOT by hammer spring tension, but by tuning port screw lengths. He would have a tuning port screw (the 8/32 or 10/32 in the swinging breech arm) for each benchrest class. IE; lv, hv, etc. Once the hammer tension spring tension was set, the tuning port screw does the rest. So, that takes some time and a hand file, dremel tool or bench grinder, and a hand full of screws that are slightly longer than what you need them, because you will be grinding them down little by little to get to the speeds you want for each class. I am sure Mike N. or Rod as you mentioned above, may chime in with further info. Old school method, and it may still apply on his new guns?, was to turn the tuning port screw back out enough, until it provided no restriction. Shoot pellets over the chrono and screw in hammer tension until it hits top speed, whatever that may be. Once there, back it off an 1/8 turn at a time until you lose about 20-30 fps velocity. At that point the hammer tension is set and max velocity your gun will be able to shoot (depending on reg pressure) . Then, screw the tuning port screw back in til its tight (this would be your original screw thats already ground to length). Whatever that speed is, if it works, can be set slower with a longer screw, or sped back up with a shorter screw. You will have to spend time and pellets over the chrono to get it right, but its easy to do. Then keep your TP screws separated so you know which one is for whatever class. Hope that helps....im sure someone else will chime in, but this is how I have always tuned my FT Thomas and helped other tune theirs.................... BC
Hi
I am one of the first to get the Thomas air rifle for the 25 m benchrest Heavy Varmint ( serial number # 0091 ).
Now I want to use my thomas air for both light varmint ( 16j ) and heavy varmint ( 27j ) in world competition WRABF 2025 in Finland.
Considering that I use a 45 cm Lothar Walter barrel for LV 16j and 60 cm polygonal barrel for HV 27j, what is the regulator pressure you suggest for each?
What is the ideal pressure if I want to shoot both classes at the same pressure and only change the air port screw?
I have a huma pressure tester and I can set the pressure precisely.

Best regards
 
Hi
I am one of the first to get the Thomas air rifle for the 25 m benchrest Heavy Varmint ( serial number # 0091 ).
Now I want to use my thomas air for both light varmint ( 16j ) and heavy varmint ( 27j ) in world competition WRABF 2025 in Finland.
Considering that I use a 45 cm Lothar Walter barrel for LV 16j and 60 cm polygonal barrel for HV 27j, what is the regulator pressure you suggest for each?
What is the ideal pressure if I want to shoot both classes at the same pressure and only change the air port screw?
I have a huma pressure tester and I can set the pressure precisely.

Best regards
I would hope some BR guys chime in, as I am just a normal FT shooter in the WFTF class. Maybe Mike at ThomasAIr will see this and respond. I will tell you this, you will no doubt have a set reg pressure, and use the different port screws to shoot different classes. I have friends who have different screws for each class and it works well for them. BC
 
Hi
I am one of the first to get the Thomas air rifle for the 25 m benchrest Heavy Varmint ( serial number # 0091 ).
Now I want to use my thomas air for both light varmint ( 16j ) and heavy varmint ( 27j ) in world competition WRABF 2025 in Finland.
Considering that I use a 45 cm Lothar Walter barrel for LV 16j and 60 cm polygonal barrel for HV 27j, what is the regulator pressure you suggest for each?
What is the ideal pressure if I want to shoot both classes at the same pressure and only change the air port screw?
I have a huma pressure tester and I can set the pressure precisely.

Best regards
I have no idea what my regulator pressure is set at. I left it as it came.

I tested 10 different weight .177 pellets from 7.0 grain pistol wad cutters to 10 3 grain round nose at 20 yards indoors.

At < 12FPE they all produced a 5 round group size E to E of 0.199" to 0.191" with the pistol wad cutters producing the smallest group.

At < 20 FPE none produced a 5 round group of < 2.0" E to E.

It is my understanding that Mr. Piatt and Mr. Niksch use a different twist rate for 12 and 20 FPE tunes.
 
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