Tuning TX200 MKIII- power washers ??

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drpietrzak

drpietrzak

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I am prepping to play with the tune of my TX200 MKIII. I have a couple sets of washers/spacers. One set fits over the stock spring guide and preloads the spring from rear (trigger group end). The other set sit in front of the top hat and preload by pushing the top hat back. Both sets are metal. The spring guide and top hat are stock metal.

What difference does doing it either way make on the function? The first option would seem to add no weight, just preload tension. The other approach adds weight to the top hat section in operation in addition to the additional tension.

Feedback and thoughts?
 
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drpietrzak said:
I am prepping to play with the tune of my TX200 MKIII. I have a couple sets of washers/spacers. One set fits over the stock spring guide and preloads the spring from rear (trigger group end). The other set sit in front of the top hat and preload by pushing the top hat back. Both sets are metal. The spring guide and top hat are stock metal.

What difference does doing it either way make on the function? The first option would seem to add no weight, just preload tension. The other approach adds weight to the top hat section in operation in addition to the additional tension.

Feedback and thoughts?
Click to expand...
Why did you feel you needed to make this change other than "prepping" with a tune?
How many tins have you shot through your original TX before the change?

Patrick
 
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2L8 said:
Why did you feel you needed to make this change other than "prepping" with a tune?
How many tins have you shot through your original TX before the change?

Patrick
Click to expand...
I have shot 15 or 20 tins so far. I like to tweak and just am curious about what I can do with it. As I shoot mostly at 30 to 100 yards in the summers this was something to try.
 
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Mine has been shooting well. I have no complaints. Last time I ran the stock arrangement over the chronograph (10 shots) I was getting about 840 fps from Norma 8.4s with a SD of 2.6 fps and ES of 9 fps. It is typically in the 3 fps to 4 fps SD range that one was especiallytight. The variation appears nearly all pellet related. A "tight" pellet being slower than a "loose" one 8 of 10 times. When using unsorted AA 10.3s I typically get about 730 fps with 4 fps to 6 fps SD with an ES of 12 fps.

Groups at 50 yards are about 1 inch (+/- .30) and at 100 yards 3 inches to 4 inches. Zan 10 slugs will do 2.5 inches to 3.5 inches at 100 yards. An occational sub moa at 50 yards but not regularly.

So I have no issues at all. I am quite happy. I am just looking to see if I have topped out or can do a little bit better.
 
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Another thing weights and shims do is adjust the timing of the pellet leaving the barrel. Somerimes known as piston bounce or piston slamming. When shims/ spacers are added behind the spring it puts compression force on the spring and typically increases the velocity, but depending on how well the seal fits it can cause either piston bounce or slamming home. When shims are added inside, ahead of the tophat, it gives rhe weight in motion ( the piston) more weight which can alter the speed the piston moves forward..( mass in motion) andvthis also controls piston boynce or slamming home!! Ideally, the proper tunning job will use these shims or weights to time the piston to reach the end of its stroke just milli seconds before the pellet leaves the barrel to get best use of the air cushion for max velocity from the stroke speed. Much experimenting can go into getting this firing behavior just right. If this timing is off you will loose power and end up with a rough firing behavior! All the springs, seals and lubes wont mean a thing until the piston timing is perfect. This is why some rifles can shoot at 910 fps and have very little recoil, because the piston bottoming out is in perfect time with the pellet leaving the barrel and creating a very smooth firing behavior. Placing these washers/ spacers in front or behind the spring will change the speed of travel of the piston and greatly affect the firing behavior!!
 
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Before I put a kit in my 200HC, it was shooting 8.4’s around 905fps. When I installed the kit I didn’t put any power adding spacers in. Now I’m around 860fps or so and the gun is much nicer to shoot. Since a .177 is not a powerhouse caliber, I prefer accuracy and ease of shooting. I never took the gun apart again to try a spacer to get me back to the 900fps mark so I have no clue if the gun would shoot better. But my gut told me to not waste my time.
 
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Vetmx said:
Before I put a kit in my 200HC, it was shooting 8.4’s around 905fps. When I installed the kit I didn’t put any power adding spacers in. Now I’m around 860fps or so and the gun is much nicer to shoot. Since a .177 is not a powerhouse caliber, I prefer accuracy and ease of shooting. I never took the gun apart again to try a spacer to get me back to the 900fps mark so I have no clue if the gun would shoot better. But my gut told me to not waste my time.
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Playing with the spacers may not increase velocity, one never knows for sure. Lower velocity does create less recoil, but increasing velocity does not necessarily mean higher recoil. Many times the excess recoil is caused by the timing being off and causing the pustin to bounce or slam home. My own TX shoots 910 with 8.4 pellets, most of those that try it believe it is only a shade over 12 fp... Often set a pellet on the turret and fire the rifle, the pellet never moves.
 
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