Turned the regulator down on my Veteran .25 std.

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h2okenny

h2okenny

Member
Jan 24, 2018
547
337
TN, United States
I know most say leave the regulator alone and only adjust the hammer spring.I almost never shoot beyond 60 yards and don't plan to shoot the 34 g pellets. I was originally shooting the 25.4's around 940 fps and getting 38-40 shots on a 3500 psi fill. I didn't see any need for that speed/power at 40-60 yards. My goal was to shoot in the 880 fps range. When I tried reducing the power with the hs anywhere near that speed I had a fairly large spike at the end of the string and shot count only improved by about 4-5 shots with the 3500 psi same fill. After some serious thought (the gun is practically new) I tackled the regulator. Turns out it's really pretty easy to get out and adjust, only real issue was having to take it out multiple times and readjust the collar on the regulator (if you've watched Ernest's video you now what I'm referring to). It took several, several, several times to get it down to my goal. I'm now shooting 875-885 range getting over 50 shots with a 3300 psi fill. I can get 40 shots only filling to 3000 psi, I'm really pleased. In case anyone is interested I'll mention a couple of things. First watch Ernest's video on the Taipan regulator, I went back to it repeatedly during the whole process. I will say this, Ernest recommends moving the regulator collar one hole at a time. One hole at a time has very little effect on the regulator, trust me I know (now). I lost count of how much I moved the collar, but I'd guess 8-10 holes, I got pretty good at taking the gun apart (an wasting a lot of air and pellets)😁. Another thing that most people (other than me) would think to do: take the linkage rod loose from the trigger assembly, and don't over tighten the screws on the trigger assembly cover when you're finished. They can be a bear to get out if you over torque them. Screwing a small metric bolt into the end of the regulator makes it super easy to remove. I'm not sure what size it is, I found one in my misc bolts.
 
When you take the linkage rod loose it allows you to remove the air tube rail and trigger from the air tube. The first time I did it without removing the linkage rod. It's much easier and quicker to just go ahead and take it loose, there's only one small allen screw holding the rod once you remove the trigger assembly cover. Be aware there are also two small brass bushings that will fall out of assembly if you turn it over. It's pretty obvious where they go if you happen to let them fall out. They fell out on me the first time, after that I started putting the cover back on just to make sure I didn't loose anything.

I don't have a regulator tester, that's why it required a lot of trial and error. It appears, based on the way the gauge acts when filling, that the regulator is now set somewhere around 1600-1700 psi, or 110-115 bar. 
 
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When I received my veteran I proceeded to do the same as you did as I had similar performance. My regulator was marked at the factory with a setting of 152. One complete revolution on the dial reduced the setting to approximately 115 bar. I did a chrony test and at 115 it fell off regulator. And as you, I am very satisfied with the results. At this setting 25.4 jsb are at 900 feet per second. I fill to 3000 and get approx 38 shots without any poi change at 40yds. It is extremely accurate.
 
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orion, 

When you pull the stock off you'll see a linkage rod that goes from the trigger back to what I call the trigger assembly. There is a cover with two screws to remove that will give you access to the end of the rod held by a small allen screw. The Ernest video, at least the one I saw, only shows the regulator already removed. You can do it without removing the rod, but as I said earlier, it's easier and you don't have to worry about bending the rod if you take it loose. Then you can just sit the entire rail aside. There is another video that I actually found on agn that shows how to degas and remove the air tube. It doesn't show the removing the linkage, it appears it was done before he started recording. I tried to copy and paste but evidently I'm not doing something right. The title of the post is; "Taipan Veteran, need some help please," posted by Shutik. If you don't find it I can explain how to degas the air tube, but that thread covers it pretty well.
 
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This just a suggestion. Before you take your veteran apart make sure you do a complete string over the chrony. You will gain a wealth of information. For example the speed of your Projectile, the consistency and standard deviation of the string, and the shot count before falling off regulator. Based on this information you will then be in a better position to evaluate the modification you want to undertake. Also, make sure to take measurements of your regulator just in case you want to set it at original spec. In my veteran 25 the regulator came in at 153 from the factory and a full turn of the brass adjuster reduced it to 110 bar approx. The procedure is very easy just take your time and if needed make notes of of each step you take. The six bolts on each bracket that holds the air tube and barrel together have three different lengths. Make note as you take them apart and do not overtighten then either. I tightened mine to between 12 to 15 in-lbs.
 
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Yes it is highly recommended. I used one that cane with my cricket. Insert it and once threaded in use alligator pliers and pull out. You can even put gorilla tape on the top of the pliers as to not scratch anything. If you have the old type of aluminum cleaning rods thst cane in three parts you can also use the threaded side. You can also purchase the screw at a home depot or Lowe’s. 
 
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Yes it is highly recommended. I used one that cane with my cricket. Insert it and once threaded in use alligator pliers and pull out. You can even put gorilla tape on the top of the pliers as to not scratch anything. If you have the old type of aluminum cleaning rods thst cane in three parts you can also use the threaded side. You can also purchase the screw at a home depot or Lowe’s.
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Yeah, I might need to visit the hardware store, by any mean, do you know the specs of the screw? Or do you know if for example it's the same size of another that I can take out of the rifle and take with me to test before taking the gun apart? Maybe it's the same size of a scope ring screw?
 
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Kenny

Would the ISO metric thread designation for this reg. pulling bolt be M4 x 0.7? M for metric, 4=diameter in millimeters & 0.7 pitch? "Something 3-4 inches long" That long really? Or should I interpret it to mean 3/4" in length? I haven't seen Mr. Rowe's video in quite a while and can not recall the length he was using.

P.S. Thank you for taking time to speak with me the other day. I really appreciate your help and learned a lot during our conversation. 
 
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To all that are reading this post in respect to the specs. on the bolt used to pull the regulator. Went to my metric tap & die set today & found two different thread pitch's for the m4 bolt diameter. One was 0.50 (very fine threads) & the other 0.750 (coarser). No .7 pitch in my set. Armando suggested to use a section of aluminum cleaning rod. I happen to have an old 3 piece aluminum cleaning rod & checked it with the 2 different metric die's thread pitch & found that the 0.750 pitch die fit perfectly. I'm fairly confident the bolt size is m4 x 0.750 & a length as h20kenny said of 3-4" would be just the ticket to pull that regulator out of the air tube. For adjusting the regulator, I would have more confidence in using a steel bolt in place of the cleaning rod, as in Mr. Rowe's video, the reg. adjustment looks like it might take a fair amount of pressure. I'm not confident that the aluminum rod is up to the task. Not much structural integrity.
 
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