TUXING 4500PSI PCP Air Compressor Review

Found this question on Amazon:

Question:
Can you run antifreeze in the water reservoir to help with cooling
Answer:
Yes, you can
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TUXING Official Store
Seller · March 9, 2022
 
Here is the manual for a Hatsan compressor that looks very similar

Notice:
1. FLUID REQUIREMENTS
Fluid Purpose, Fluid Type, Fluid Volume
Coolant 25%50% Antifreeze*, G05 or Equivalent, 5.0L (mixed)
Crankcase Oil, ISO 100, 400cc
*Add distilled water ONLY. *25% minimum recommended mixture for corrosion and freeze protection. *Do not exceed 50% antifreeze mixture or cooling efficiency will be reduced. These fluids can be found at most auto parts or farm supply stores. Contact HatsanUSA if you have any questions.

Yeah, if things don't make sense to me I have to do a little digging.
 
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Prestone antifreeze safe for aluminum?


The extended life formula is safe for use with all types of metals & rubbers; including aluminum. Prestone Prime will guard against temperature extremes and the effects of rust, corrosion and premature water pump failure.

I would think so, aluminum has been used in engines for a long time.

Video shows what this guy used:
 
ANyone have experience with this model Tuxing. Have found parts readily availble if needed in US warehouse but almost no reviews. Puts out about 3/4 the CFM of My AV 4500 that broke its crank the other day after 1 1/2 yrs of flawless operation but I like the filtering and cooling system better on this one. And AV wont have any parts until after November for the AV. So considering this as an alternative.



https://www.amazon.com/TUXING-4500P...X0DER&qid=1603161410&s=merchant-items&sr=1-30
I am considering a Tuxing twin cylinder compressor much like this one. I see your original post is from 2020. Has it continued to give you good service? Any major repairs required? Also, how's the noise level? Have you measured the decibel rating?
 
How to winterize a TXEDT032?

I have my compressor out in my unheated garage where it can get slightly below freezing in the winter. I've been told to not use antifreeze in the coolant solution due to causing corrosion to the internal water cavities of the compressor. I only use Redline water wetter which I don't believe reduces the freezing temperature of water? To be cautious I drained the coolant out while running the pump to try to get everything out of the lines. Unfortunately once the pump starts to run dry it has little effect on moving the remaining water through the lines and compressor. I still see a slight amount of water mixed with bubbles in the lines so I assume these is still some water in the compressor cooling cavities. I assume not much but impossible to tell. A bit concerned about it freezing and causing serious damage. Probably would not take much water freezing to damage the radiator? I was thinking about using compressed air on the water line to blow out the last of it but wondering if anyone else has good (or bad) experiences with winterizing these compressors. Has anyone successfully used anti-freeze?
Seriously???? What's going to corrode, the aluminum? What are car motors made out of???? OH yeah ALUMINUM. Antifreeze is anti corrosive and it's ANTIFREEZE. If you are dead set, yeah blow air through it, be sure to open the low point.
 
I am considering a Tuxing twin cylinder compressor much like this one. I see your original post is from 2020. Has it continued to give you good service? Any major repairs required? Also, how's the noise level? Have you measured the decibel rating?
That is the same model I have, the Electronic Control unit died in under an hour, they sent me a new one and a bunch of other parts. In my case the ECU died and the only way to shut off the compressor was to pull the plug. If you have an issue hit me up off line and I'll give you the joys of swapping it out without tearing the thing apart to get at it. Oh and don't use that %^$# Royal purple it smokes, if you really want to I've got a new bottle, unopened I'll send you for shipping.
 
Seriously???? What's going to corrode, the aluminum? What are car motors made out of???? OH yeah ALUMINUM. Antifreeze is anti corrosive and it's ANTIFREEZE. If you are dead set, yeah blow air through it, be sure to open the low point.
I reached the same conclusion but Brian is suppose to be the most knowledgeable on these. I added antifreeze a couple of days ago when it got down to 29deg F.
 
I reached the same conclusion but Brian is suppose to be the most knowledgeable on these. I added antifreeze a couple of days ago when it got down to 29deg F.
I've had mine for less than a month, functional for an hour or so of use, my timer doesn't appear to be functional, it activates on movement, trying to avoid hardwiring one but....open to other ideas and something other than Royal Purple oil. Oh I used 50/50 premix coolant
 
I've had mine for less than a month, functional for an hour or so of use, my timer doesn't appear to be functional, it activates on movement, trying to avoid hardwiring one but....open to other ideas and something other than Royal Purple oil. Oh I used 50/50 premix coolant
The hour meter on my compressor is vibration activated and it has a way to reset the amount of vibration (or movement?) so it activates only when the compressor is running. Maybe yours can be adjusted?
 
The hour meter on my compressor is vibration activated and it has a way to reset the amount of vibration (or movement?) so it activates only when the compressor is running. Maybe yours can be adjusted?
Nope, it's sealed and I mean sealed, but I have two of them so, let the unsealing commence. Which meter do you have?
 
That is the same model I have, the Electronic Control unit died in under an hour, they sent me a new one and a bunch of other parts. In my case the ECU died and the only way to shut off the compressor was to pull the plug. If you have an issue hit me up off line and I'll give you the joys of swapping it out without tearing the thing apart to get at it. Oh and don't use that %^$# Royal purple it smokes, if you really want to I've got a new bottle, unopened I'll send you for shipp
If you have a simple way to get to the control please let us know. I intend to wire in an hour meter and put my thermostat cutoff back in. Ideally will wire in a digital pressure gauge at the same time. I remember last time it was a pain to put in the thermostat because the little box holding the electronics doesn't drop far enough down to get your hands in there.
 
If you have a simple way to get to the control please let us know. I intend to wire in an hour meter and put my thermostat cutoff back in. Ideally will wire in a digital pressure gauge at the same time. I remember last time it was a pain to put in the thermostat because the little box holding the electronics doesn't drop far enough down to get your hands in there.
There is nothing simple about it, it's a tight fit, as an fyi the spade fittings are weird, or metric, or at least to me, I have a good collection but...didn't have that size. So that said, the cover on the air/water filter side comes off, then the two screws on the top drops the box, NOW the fun begins, you and your 3rd hand has to compress the clips on the power switch and on hand pry's it up a little and it'll come out allowing access to the spades under it mine has contacts on both sides so easy to wire in a meter. Fish your wires up and then reinstall. You'll need small hands, the ONLY was to get the box out is to pull the water separator's, a non-starter for me. IF for some reason you need to fish a wire through the grommet on the right side, you need to take the grommet out and get creative with a screw drive then work it back in. Metric spade connectors...https://smile.amazon.com/Twidec-Assortment-Connector-Insulating-Electrical/dp/B07VSD3HDM/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3FNE1XI836QIW&keywords=metric+spade+connectors&qid=1668566764&s=industrial&sprefix=metric+spade+connectors%2Cindustrial%2C220&sr=1-4
 
iflysky: They are 304 stainless Tee and a close nipple I plugged the original gauge opening with a stainless plug, they are 1/8 inch threading. (see image) Each of the ports have a delrin seal disk but I also wrap the threads a couple times with Oatey fast tape thread sealer. I purchased my stainless fittings locally at a supply house here, just call around in your area some one will probly have them just make sure they are stainless steel to be able to handle the high pressure. I removed the silica from the original plexi tube that come with the compressor and placed one filter disk in the bottom of tube and one on top with the 13x molecular sieve in between. (there is no need to replace the exisiting internal tube). I purchased the sieve from www.shopbvv.com
For Oil I use Royal Purple synt 100 I have not used Coltri or Bauer oil so I cant give any info on those, but the Royal purple works very well in this compressor. You can fill your air guns directly and yes you just open the air drain after shutoff to release line pressure. For my air tanks I bought new it was worth the money and I know I have 15 years on them atleast and a hydro renew each 5 years is only about 40 bucks so I think a new tank is worth the money, I have not heard anything bad from the refirbished tank so it would be a personel preference on your end to make this consideration. I have 74Cuft and 2 100 Cuft either is a good setup I use my 74 in the field and the 100s in the shop.

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Looking at this thread where you plugged the original gauge port with 1/8" x close nipple. I thought all of the fittings were M10x1.0. The 1/8" would close it I assume but would probably corrupt the M10 threads. Your thoughts? I have one of these on the way and want to make sure I do everything properly.
 
TIme for an update: After running for a couple weeks I noticed on the longer run times the compressor would shut off and the tanks would be about 200 pounds liter on air than the compressor gauge. I also noticed that they had installed the airline for the compressor gauge at the bottom of the water trap by the water drain ( see first image). This allows water to be pushed into gauge line affecting reading IMHO and possible future issues. I decided to make a change and removed the line from original position and plugged then installed a SS tee into the outlet pressure line, and installed the pressure gauge line there (see second image). Now the compressor gauge and tank match no matter the run time. This will also stop any future issues of water possibly damaging the compressor gauge. I also changed out there 3 part internal silca and charcoal for 13x Molecular Sieve beads (see image 3).The compressor continues to run very good I use it to top off my two 100Cuft drager tanks I use in the shop. From 3000psi to 4500psi it does its work in 11 minutes. I will post shortly filling a 74 Cu ft tank from empty to give a update on times and temps for a bottle from scratch. So far very pleased with operation.

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@bthurman My TXEDT033 will be delivered today. I began accumulating parts for the "T" fitting mod you suggested. I just realized my 033 has ato purge and the 032 does not. I think the auto purge may solve the problem you had without the "T" fitting. Your thoughts? I'll keep you posted!